97 XJR, 1st problem in over year of owning
#41
Put a new crank sensor on it, and it fired right up. Runs as good as ever.....but....the dash has lit up. Now, not only is the check engine light still on, showing same codes, it also says trac lock fail, abs light is on, and the trac off light is lit up. I did take the battery out, and charged it, so the car was dead for a day or two, but looks like typical Jaguar. Fix one thing, two more go wrong.....sheesh
As quoted the XJR/V12 has two fuel pumps. One is used to start the car. It then switches over to run on the other. The pump that started the car is then only used under extreme load conditions to provide extra pressure/volume.
Maybe look at temporarily wiring up the pump that is starting the car and see if it continues to run on after.
I'm on my phone so I can't view the wiring diagram therefore I am not sure if there are 2 fuel pump relays in the boot or just one.
Hope that helps
#42
I may be wrong, but I thought the second pump kicks in under load.
But here is the new twist. The knock sensors fault code has been on for over a year. But all of this new stuff happened since putting in the new crank sensor. But I did have the battery out of the car. Had battery tested. Shows good.
I have the ELM 327 and the app on my phone. If I try and clear fault logs, it simply does nothing.
To recap, now as soon as you start the car, all lights except the check engine light go out, but as soon as you get going, maybe 5 miles a hour, TRAC Fail, Traction lock off, and the ABS light comes on.
My ELM shows the voltage on the ECU varying from 8-14 volts, depending on rpm, yet when I check any positive post to ground, it shows a steady 13.6 volts. Checked at the battery, same. So for some reason, either my ELM is incorrect, or I am getting a bad connection somewhere. I read on here that the ECU pins get dirty. Does this require disconnect of battery? This car is really clean in the trunk, elsewhere.
I have planned a road trip this weekend, would love to get to the bottom of this tomorrow.
But here is the new twist. The knock sensors fault code has been on for over a year. But all of this new stuff happened since putting in the new crank sensor. But I did have the battery out of the car. Had battery tested. Shows good.
I have the ELM 327 and the app on my phone. If I try and clear fault logs, it simply does nothing.
To recap, now as soon as you start the car, all lights except the check engine light go out, but as soon as you get going, maybe 5 miles a hour, TRAC Fail, Traction lock off, and the ABS light comes on.
My ELM shows the voltage on the ECU varying from 8-14 volts, depending on rpm, yet when I check any positive post to ground, it shows a steady 13.6 volts. Checked at the battery, same. So for some reason, either my ELM is incorrect, or I am getting a bad connection somewhere. I read on here that the ECU pins get dirty. Does this require disconnect of battery? This car is really clean in the trunk, elsewhere.
I have planned a road trip this weekend, would love to get to the bottom of this tomorrow.
#43
#44
I may be wrong, but I thought the second pump kicks in under load.
But here is the new twist. The knock sensors fault code has been on for over a year. But all of this new stuff happened since putting in the new crank sensor. But I did have the battery out of the car. Had battery tested. Shows good.
I have the ELM 327 and the app on my phone. If I try and clear fault logs, it simply does nothing.
To recap, now as soon as you start the car, all lights except the check engine light go out, but as soon as you get going, maybe 5 miles a hour, TRAC Fail, Traction lock off, and the ABS light comes on.
My ELM shows the voltage on the ECU varying from 8-14 volts, depending on rpm, yet when I check any positive post to ground, it shows a steady 13.6 volts. Checked at the battery, same. So for some reason, either my ELM is incorrect, or I am getting a bad connection somewhere. I read on here that the ECU pins get dirty. Does this require disconnect of battery? This car is really clean in the trunk, elsewhere.
I have planned a road trip this weekend, would love to get to the bottom of this tomorrow.
But here is the new twist. The knock sensors fault code has been on for over a year. But all of this new stuff happened since putting in the new crank sensor. But I did have the battery out of the car. Had battery tested. Shows good.
I have the ELM 327 and the app on my phone. If I try and clear fault logs, it simply does nothing.
To recap, now as soon as you start the car, all lights except the check engine light go out, but as soon as you get going, maybe 5 miles a hour, TRAC Fail, Traction lock off, and the ABS light comes on.
My ELM shows the voltage on the ECU varying from 8-14 volts, depending on rpm, yet when I check any positive post to ground, it shows a steady 13.6 volts. Checked at the battery, same. So for some reason, either my ELM is incorrect, or I am getting a bad connection somewhere. I read on here that the ECU pins get dirty. Does this require disconnect of battery? This car is really clean in the trunk, elsewhere.
I have planned a road trip this weekend, would love to get to the bottom of this tomorrow.
Last edited by FrozenApple; 04-09-2015 at 08:49 PM.
#45
I may be wrong, but I thought the second pump kicks in under load.
But here is the new twist. The knock sensors fault code has been on for over a year. But all of this new stuff happened since putting in the new crank sensor. But I did have the battery out of the car. Had battery tested. Shows good.
I have the ELM 327 and the app on my phone. If I try and clear fault logs, it simply does nothing.
To recap, now as soon as you start the car, all lights except the check engine light go out, but as soon as you get going, maybe 5 miles a hour, TRAC Fail, Traction lock off, and the ABS light comes on.
My ELM shows the voltage on the ECU varying from 8-14 volts, depending on rpm, yet when I check any positive post to ground, it shows a steady 13.6 volts. Checked at the battery, same. So for some reason, either my ELM is incorrect, or I am getting a bad connection somewhere. I read on here that the ECU pins get dirty. Does this require disconnect of battery? This car is really clean in the trunk, elsewhere.
I have planned a road trip this weekend, would love to get to the bottom of this tomorrow.
But here is the new twist. The knock sensors fault code has been on for over a year. But all of this new stuff happened since putting in the new crank sensor. But I did have the battery out of the car. Had battery tested. Shows good.
I have the ELM 327 and the app on my phone. If I try and clear fault logs, it simply does nothing.
To recap, now as soon as you start the car, all lights except the check engine light go out, but as soon as you get going, maybe 5 miles a hour, TRAC Fail, Traction lock off, and the ABS light comes on.
My ELM shows the voltage on the ECU varying from 8-14 volts, depending on rpm, yet when I check any positive post to ground, it shows a steady 13.6 volts. Checked at the battery, same. So for some reason, either my ELM is incorrect, or I am getting a bad connection somewhere. I read on here that the ECU pins get dirty. Does this require disconnect of battery? This car is really clean in the trunk, elsewhere.
I have planned a road trip this weekend, would love to get to the bottom of this tomorrow.
I think Jaguar had it this way so that both pumps got used. Makes sense when you think about it.
One relay in fuse box. One relay by battery I believe.
Just trying to give you things to consider.
I don't have an XJR so can't test the theory.
#46
#47
#48
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disconnecting battery for couple minutes far as i know resets ecu and CEL codes on all cars you said you took it out to charge and check it so if you have them again likely you still have an issue you need to resolve
#49
#50
#51
Ok, I have a LM 327, and the app on my phone. I am getting several codes.
P0332, P0300, P0304, and P1316.
The car won't stay running now. I suspect the fuel pump as my first check? Also, how do I clear the ECU? The ELM allows me to clear the log, but from what I can tell, not the codes.
Any advice on where to start MUCH appreciated.
P0332, P0300, P0304, and P1316.
The car won't stay running now. I suspect the fuel pump as my first check? Also, how do I clear the ECU? The ELM allows me to clear the log, but from what I can tell, not the codes.
Any advice on where to start MUCH appreciated.
Interesting point: Your CKPS showed 200 rpm during cranking, and it showed direct resistance of 1.394 Ohms, which is about right in my experience. Still, replacing it proved that it was bad, despite the evidence!
When I had a CKPS go bad, it would cause all kinds of lurching and missing during any acceleration. Yet it also passed those tests.
Excellent to hear that it was a relatively simple fix after all! It's the diagnosis that is so sometimes.
Big thanks to all the great suggestions made in this thread. Congrats to Robxjr6 for being first to suggest CKPS and "winning" the diagnosis in post #9!
#52
I'm really glad to get the car going, and I certainly appreciate the advice given. For 116.00 at O'Rielly auto parts, and a little time, I now have a great running Jag again. We even went on a road trip yesterday with my club, and the car did great.
Yet, I now have more fault codes than I did prior to the CKPS going bad. I would love to reset the fault codes, and see if it was the CKPS that tripped a lot of this to begin with. The auto parts stores seem to have a problem resetting codes. The guy I had scan the car had no idea how to check voltage of the CPU. Do any of you guys recommend another scanner? I got the idea for the ELM327 on here.
Yet, I now have more fault codes than I did prior to the CKPS going bad. I would love to reset the fault codes, and see if it was the CKPS that tripped a lot of this to begin with. The auto parts stores seem to have a problem resetting codes. The guy I had scan the car had no idea how to check voltage of the CPU. Do any of you guys recommend another scanner? I got the idea for the ELM327 on here.
#53
#55
I've got an old Actron 9145 which will read the 'major' codes and clear them all. It works OK but won't show more advanced information such as per cylinder misfires.
I have the 9145 because it reads OBDI and OBDII as well as the unusual OBD 1.5 (OBD 1 computer, OBD 2 wiring), which I require for my 1995 Buick Riviera which is OBD1.5
But need to get another for the Jag that is more comprehensive (again for things like cylinder misfire reporting) and affordable.
There are a few threads here discussing readers:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...reader-114409/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...one-buy-98444/
.
I have the 9145 because it reads OBDI and OBDII as well as the unusual OBD 1.5 (OBD 1 computer, OBD 2 wiring), which I require for my 1995 Buick Riviera which is OBD1.5
But need to get another for the Jag that is more comprehensive (again for things like cylinder misfire reporting) and affordable.
There are a few threads here discussing readers:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...reader-114409/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...one-buy-98444/
.
Last edited by al_roethlisberger; 04-21-2015 at 07:21 AM.
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