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I have bought some matched paint in jgz840 Antigua mica metallic and on the grey undercoat supplied with it it comes out way too dark,would this paint have used white undercoat as when painted directly on white paper it’s a much better match ??
Did the paint supplier you purchased from offer any other variants to the shade or a recommended primer colour?
Depending on what mixing scheme/paint brands there can be different numbers of shade variants available.
I have also found that waterbase formulations can be better matches than solvent formulations.
He has asked me to leave the petrol flap with him so he can match it that way
I would go back to him and supervise his colour matching procedure and ask some questions with regard to variants and undercoats.
I have known paint suppliers to take the easy route in not checking the panel in the correct light, if its raining outside or they don't compound the the test panel etc
It would also be good to check the colour against the areas of the car you are blending to.
Some colour mixing schemes offer only one formulation for a particular colour while another scheme can offer many......weird i know, but that's just the way it is.
Are you going edge to edge with the new colour or doing a blend into the next panel?
Ive now had three different companies ‘match’ me a tin of Antigua blue jcz mica and all were too dark and it’s starting to get annoying ,my car is a 1997 and the paint mix just doesn’t match ,it’s never been resprayed and I just don’t understand the issue ,I e had paint mixed for my old kingfisher green or blue one years ago and it was perfect ,any advice please
The colour of your car will have changed slightly with 23 years of exposure to the elements and possibly even some sunshine that far south!
Modern paint blending machines are very accurate but a batch of original JGZ could therefore no longer exactly match the car. A spectrophotometer used directly on the vehicle panel can match the original code and then allow slight variations in the paint components mix to account for weathering. Downside is having to take the vehicle to a paint supplier or a bodyshop with a spectrophotometer to have it matched.
Try talking to these guys (once the virus is over!) in Ipswich. https://www.ippsltd.co.uk/colour-mat...-spectrometre/
They might want the fuel flap of a mirror cover, or they might just look at the car in the flesh.
I’m getting good results with those clay bar pads and paint protection liquid ,it’s take a while and a couple patches need paint but they will be done when I find a decent match ,Anybody
else done theirs at home
Ok I have only done the boot, bumper and rear wings.
My car was pretty good as I had only polished it a couple of weeks ago but wanted to play with my new clay cloth.
I had never used clay before but it was very easy and made the bodywork silky smooth. Very please with the result.
From start to finish it took about 1 1/2 hours, but that is just a 1/3rd of the car!
Beginning. Washed before claying. Clayed and polished. Clayed, polished and waxed Finished. At least the rear!
I have merged your THREE threads on this topic into ONE. Please do not start any more threads on this topic. Having all of your posts and others' replies in one thread helps prevent confusion and double and triple effort on the part of other members who want to help.
They were not all on the same subject ,one was about detailing at home 🤦♂️
The title was something along the lines of "Paint repair at home," and your post contains the words, "...a couple patches need paint but they will be done when I find a decent match ,Anybody"
If you'll tell me which post numbers you think should be in a separate thread I'll be happy to consider moving them.
03-18-2020, 03:11 PM
