I've really heard some bad things about these quick-fix AC recharging kits.... but I'm no expert. However, it's only about $100-150 to properly vacuum and fill an AC system in good repair, so I'd lean toward that than a $30 risk.

But then again, if the system is on its last leg and will eventually need to be replaced, or one never intends to repair it and just needs it to limp along... then a $30 quick fix once a year may be perfect

.

 

Hey Lads,

I did the test and pulled codes 23,24 and 41

Now the car has been serviced so I believe the system needs to be reset which I have done. It may eliminate 23 and 24 but 41 has me thinking. It is the motor for the left side re-circulation motor. Although this is not my particular issue, it does let me know that there may be motor or flap issues inside the dash.

Going to let the system run for a couple of days to see which codes come back. Certainly shouldn't be seeing a low pressure code after the service as I have checked it already and it was good.

My direction right now is trying to determine how the left vents are cold and the right vents are less cold or even warm by comparison. Since our cars do not have dual climate control, these seems like it could only be a sticking flap inside the dash somewhere. Going to track down an image of the vent systems in these dashes to see what it shows me.

Bernie

 

[QUOTE=al_roethlisberger;1304953]I've really heard some bad things about these quick-fix AC recharging kits.... but I'm no expert. However, it's only about $100-150 to properly vacuum and fill an AC system in good repair, so I'd lean toward that than a $30 risk.

But then again, if the system is on its last leg and will eventually need to be replaced, or one never intends to repair it and just needs it to limp along... then a $30 quick fix once a year may be perfect

So, I get do it the right way and I did just did that on my Jag, in fact I did it twice, the first time "we" put in dye to troubleshoot and the second time was after the new parts were installed. You can bet that even though I know it takes 1150 grams of R134, after spending that amount of money I wasn't using the $30 can;-)

The E46 BMW has a well known failure pattern of cool air out the left middle vent and warm air out of the right middle vent, In that case I believe the $30 can is appropriate.

 

Out of the corner on my eye today while looking into other issues, I noticed that the AC Compressor, which I left running, was not cycling.

I stood back and watched for quite a while and nope, never cycled once. Just kept turning and turning and turning. This surely isn't right is it?

I hooked my gauges back up to the car and the pressures were low again so maybe I have a small leak somewhere. Did the same as before and brought the pressures up to 30 / 350. The car temp got down to 50F on my temp sensor so I figured that was good enough.

Guess what?
The compressor still does not cycle. It just keeps running.
So is it the pressure switch on top of the high side pressure line that controls the compressor clutch? I figured it was and when I disconnected it the compressor stopped turning so I guess I was right.

I am thinking I might have a bad switch for the high pressure shut off to the compressor. Sound reasonable?

Bernie

 

Bernie,
As well as the pressure switch, there is a relay for the compressor clutch, which is located under the plastic shroud around the washer fluid filler neck. There are three relays in a row, and it is the middle one, I think. (I can check JTIS for you if that would help). If that relay is stuck, it could prevent the compressor from cycling... It would be a cheap and easy fix if that was the problem.
The compressor clutch is controlled by the climate control system, in simple terms, being switched on when the car thinks it needs to be cooled. If there isn't enough pressure to activate the pressure switch, it will disconnect the compressor clutch to avoid damaging the system. (I believe that the pressure switch is a low pressure protection, rather than a high pressure protection) It is no surprise therefore that disconnecting the pressure switch will cause the compressor clutch to be disengaged, but it wouldn't on its own suggest that the pressure switch is at fault.
As far as a leak in the system is concerned, I would find it encouraging that the system managed to cool the car to 50 degrees in the sort of temperatures you have in Las Vegas. If the car was in the open air, I wouldn't be surprised if the system needed to operate continuously to maintain such a low interior temperature; you might not in fact have a fault at all.....