Hey all. Ever since I bought my XJ6 a month ago, none of the functions that are controlled by the Security Locking Control Module (SLCM) work. The door locks, key fobs, console lock/unlock switch, exterior trunk release switch, interior trunk release switch, and so on are all dead. I don't believe I should be trying to diag any of the individual components, but I should be suspect of the SLCM itself. The main power wire to the module has 12V at the SLCM connector. Also both ignition key inputs give the module 12V. The ground wire is also solid and has continuity to the battery.

A few curious notes. The trunk release has been hot wired for many years. There is a wire running all the way from the electric trunk latch, into the trunk, under the car, and back up into the console where someone installed an aftermarket switch, so apparently SLCM issues are not new. Also, latest previous owner (not the same one) told me that he had diagnosed the door locks, and all he needed was a relay. He said he called the Jag dealer and they would not sell it to him and wanted him to bring the car in. I checked the wiring diagram, the door locks have relays, but there are separate relays for opening AND closing, my locks do not work in either direction, so I don't think I agree with him that this was the issue.

Before I order a used SLCM, does anyone have replacement tips for the module? I saw a post from 5+ years ago about there being an SLCM specific diagnostic manual, does anyone have it? I don't want to order a new module and find out that I need a dealer scan tool to program it, or that I'll have to get all new keys.

Thanks in advance.

 

remote fobs are programmable to any car and the keys have no transponders.

make sure you get the matching slcm part number, 315 vs 433mhz

 

TSB explains the VIN split and the SLCM.
Other TSBs for much info.

bob

 

See page 152
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1997.pdf

# 4 / 10 amp trunk fuse box , ignition switch car frame ground ( pin 5 ) and pin 2 and 3 continuity to pin 5 on key rotation ( the ignition switch is proving a ground to the SLCU pins 8 and 10 )

Jaguar " Hard Reset " ?

Wire loom as it goes up the rear trunk cars right hinge . Wears exposing wires center conductor

Are the 4 connectors on the SLCU in their proper place ( If not position keyed )

Separate from the test above , on key in / key out does the pin 4 of the ignition switch change . This is the command ground signal to get the SLCU ( Pin 18 on the SKCU ) to start the security countdown sequence . The sequence may be stuck somewhere other then the start or end lines and it could be a relay causing this

You're out of configuration

Is the steering column control rotary switch in the off position ? This reduces confusion and narrows the issue

Counterfeit fuse in the # 4 position ? limiting the current without blowing

The connector dirty connected to the underside of the fuse box , hidden so you have to pull the fuse box out .


The large BT4 connector above the fuel tank secure and properly seated ? Do not break the locking pins . This is a troubled connector , not me

 

Thanks for your tips on this, I REAAALLY don't want to order a module unless I am 98%+ sure that it is the problem.

I went through your list, and in order:

#4 / 10amp fuse in the trunk was good. When testing the ignition switch, pin 2 had continuity to pin 5 on key turn. Pin 3 didn't until in the "crank" position. I think you might have meant pin 1? Pin 1 has continuity to pin 5 on key turn. But, pin 1 does not have continuity to the SLCM, and it seems that this is normal as it goes through the inertia shut off switch and that switch is normally "open" for this circuit.

I tried the hard reset, I left the positive and negative battery cables sit together (without the battery) for at least 5 minutes. No change.

I inspected the trunk hinge wiring harness and found several to have their insulation stripped off and there was a ground that was almost completely torn. This was an important clue for the puzzle perhaps because when I purchased the car the electronic latch worked fine but only from a whole separate aftermarket circuit someone installed to make it work, totally bypassing these damaged wires. There was also an aftermarket circuit for the trunk lights.

On key in key out, pin 4 changes (grounds to pin 5). It also has continuity back to the SLCM.

What do you mean configuration?

The steering column rotary switch has always been in the off position.

I switched the #4 fuse with another 10 amp fuse and there was no change.

The underside of the trunk fuse box looked perfect (I removed to inspect).

The large connector above the fuel tank still had what looked like a factory zip tie holding it tight. I cut the zip tie and removed the connector to make sure all seemed well. It did, and I re-secured the connector.

Other things I have done:

1. Completely tested the lock/unlock circuit for the door motors including the relays and relay actuators all the way back to the SLCM. You can trigger all the of the door locks from the trunk by just grounding the pins on the SLCM connectors.
2. Tested almost all of the switches for short to grounds, including the trunk release switch circuit, trunk hatch release switch circuit, center console switch pack circuit, valet switch circuit, ignition switch circuit.
3. Tested the fuel filler flap lock circuit. Interestingly, this was disconnected from the flap motor, I reconnected it and tested and found that the motor kind of bounced too much and pretty much would leave itself in the "locked" position either way you actuated it, so I bet the previous owner just disconnected it because it would leave it locked too often.
4. Tested several switches including both trunk switches, the valet switch, the center console switch pack, ignition switch. All were good but I noticed the center console switch pack had a fairly high resistance to ground, not a definitive test but it was 150+ ohms to ground so I'm not sure that switch pack is solid.
5. Both key fobs have the lights working on them brightly and show no signs of issues.
6. Tried putting the car into key learn mode but pressing the valet switch 5 times with the key on and engine off does nothing at all.
7. Tested both direct-to-ground circuits on the SLCM.
8. I opened the SLCM to find signs of damage and there were none. No burns or corrosion or anything.

Things I have not done:

1. Switched for a known good SLCM.
2. Load tested the power and ground circuits (with a window motor or something).
3. Read the SLCM with an OBDII tool.
4. Tested every single circuit for short to grounds.
5. Tested every single circuit for short to powers.
6. Taken apart the key fobs to switch the batteries, but I don't see how this matters since I cannot get it into learn mode anyways.
7. ANYTHING ELSE???

 

The Hard Reset takes time , overnight better with the SLCU fuse # 4 installed

Was the pin # 5 on the car side of the ignition switch connector a " very good " ground to the car frame ?

There is more then one pin 1 , 2 , or 3 to 5 making at the same time with the ignition switch , there is a chart on the top of the print on page 38 for a 1997 model year

The micro switch on the trunk latch has a common history that I can tell ?

center console switch pack had a fairly high resistance to ground, not a definitive test but it was 150+ ohms to ground ? test point ?

By configuration it was to the mods done

There is a history of the door latches mechanically binding limiting the switches from making

With a understanding of which relay should click as you operate the doors may give a clue

A door switch and the associated relay only has to not make once and the SLCU may not be able to recover in further exersizing its logic steps

So a intermittent may not be good enough

I'll research further later tonight

 

Rustbelter Quote: "I inspected the trunk hinge wiring harness and found several to have their insulation stripped off and there was a ground that was almost completely torn. This was an important clue for the puzzle perhaps because when I purchased the car the electronic latch worked fine but only from a whole separate aftermarket circuit someone installed to make it work, totally bypassing these damaged wires. There was also an aftermarket circuit for the trunk lights."

We discussed it before, but work needs to be done at the trunk latch and hinge, to get the trunk operating normally. The trunk latch operation is critical to most of the SLCM functions. Basically all of which you have told us are not working.

Your next step is to repair these wires at the trunk latch. I'm betting on this as the main source of your problems. You can't program the key fobs without the trunk open (as sensed by the BPM). The alarm system will be confused because of the bad wires at the trunk (needing to sense that the trunk is closed in order to arm). A separate circuit for the trunk lights is more evidence that a quick fix was made instead of finding the real problem. The trunk lights are also normally fed from a wire passing through the trunk hinge.

Never mind what a previous owner told you about needing a relay. That's rubbish. When you hear that a repair is really simple, but the seller "didn't get to it" or whatever, you know it is not really so simple and you're being spoon fed a placebo!

Once you do this, added to all the other work you've done so far, if you still don't have success then you should consider yourself at the 98% mark of needing a new SLCM. Ready, GO!

 

I can't express how much I appreciate the assistance with a more complicated issue like this!

I will respond to you guys in order.

Parker 2
I read your response late last night and went out in the garage and connected the positive and negative together again with the SLCM plugged in and with a good fuse so it could have more time to drain.

I need to load test pin 5 on the ignition switch to make sure it was a "very good" ground, I will do that next, I only tested resistance.

My testing of the center console switch pack was lazy and fast. I made sure the switch was plugged in, and unplugged the SLCM. I put one lead on a body ground in the trunk, and one lead on the connector for the SLCM, then with my meter set to resistance, I pushed the lock button, the meter bounced around between 150-200 ohms with the switch depressed.

Mechanically binding door locks? I don't think you finished your sentence. I could actuate all the doors locks from the SLCM in the trunk, lock, and unlock. I did notice the rear left door lock uhh chrome nipple indicator (I don't know the real name) only went up and down a little, not a definitive full up and down that I would have liked to have seen, but it did seem to be locking and unlocking the door.

I am no longer testing the door lock/unlock circuits and relays since I was able to get them to lock and unlock from the trunk, meaning that the relays must be good. (Correct me if I'm wrong).

Interesting what you said about the logic steps, I think I'd still be surprised if this is the issue since the no SLCM functions work, even after reset, like at least give me a warning message or horn chirp or something???

SleekJag12:
I didn't think about how critical the trunk latch wiring was to the SLCM. Thankfully, I was able to actuate the trunk latch from the SLCM by jumping the pins and reconnecting the damaged wiring temporarily, so this circuit should be good after I solder it back together. I will repair this wiring asap and try to go into learn mode again.

A "quick fix" is EXACTLY what happened. The trunk light wires were literally cut and spliced into a totally separate set of wires that were then ran directly to the battery with a fuse holder and aftermarket switch. I see no evidence that the factory electrical tape was ever touched on the wires that were damaged so I think no attempt to actually find the damage wires was made. I am determined to return it back to factory wiring.

And YES I totally agree, I once went and looked at a used car in an Autozone parking lot and the guy said there was only a misfire because it needed a spark plug and that after buying the car I could go get the new plug in the store and install it and be good to go. My response...so could you!

 

Sounds like you're doing the right things and making progress. Here is the manual for the Security System that may be of some help over the final few hurdles in case you don't already have it.

 

Resistance is a good measure on the pin # 5 of the ignition switch car side connector , a megger not needed ( a different type of meter )

Making is a term used in the circuit is closing ( like a switch ) completing a functional operation

Reference 15.21 page 44 on a different subject

The reader exciter coil ( RF chip transponder )is not installed on US models with the use of a no chip key

Doesn't mean the unused connector not causing problems , fluids getting in the area ?

The door lock relay provides a ground for all 4 cabin doors to actuate the lock and button down

The lock status switch ( or follow up that is has arrived at the commanded position ) is only on the 2 front doors

So in my opinion the dragging rear door mechanism should not effect the SLCU in satisfying the logic step as it " buttons up "

Since your SLCU seems to not be alive to you

Ground point CAG91 , provides a ground to the SLCU at pin CA21 - 14 and 25 at the bottem of the print page 146 and page 28 parcel shelf ground screw

The picture looks to be above the parcel shelf in the cabin area on the roof post between the left side rear window and the large rear window

Without removing the rear window post trim you can run a ground wire over to the side of the battery where there are existing ground terminal post

 

Okay so I didn't have time to get too in depth today but I did a few things. I got my soldering iron out and returned every bit of modified/damaged wiring in the trunk to like new condition. Several wires on the trunk hinge were damaged, and several had been cut and spliced into other circuit so they would work again. I undid all of that. (See pictures below). And yes I used heat shrink over those exposed wires.

After that, I reconnected the SLCM, reconnected the battery, and tried to go into "learn" mode again. I closed all the doors and the hood. I then opened the driver's door and the trunk. I turned the key to the run position (pos. 2). I rocked the valet switch back and fourth five times aaaand nothing. The door locks also are still not working by the console switch or remotes. Neither are either trunk release switches (which haven't been reconnected in years). Also, this was after I had the positive and negative cable connected to drain the residual power on the modules over night.

Disappointing, but at least I think I have the car in the position that it was when it originally broke, and not with all that non-factory wiring. I noticed the trunk lights work now when the trunk is open.

I did not have time to do anymore testing on the ignition switch.

Thank you for the manual! I will probably read it cover to cover soon.

 

The VALET switch is often 'baulky'.
Make sure the switch is functioning properly.

 

I already had tested the switch, it seemed to work great. But that wouldn't cause all the door locks to not work from the front switch too right?

I also checked the siren to make sure someone hadn't unplugged it, but it was plugged in.

 

But that wouldn't cause all the door locks to not work from the front switch too right?

On the front driver door master control module ( which includes the 4 window controls ) I found the pin locking bar on the connector loose allowing the pins in the connector to migrate away from making contact

 

Update!

FINALLY, an XJ6 showed up at my local salvage yard. Unfortunately...it was a 1995 (I have a 97), but that didn't stop me gutting it. I took the SLCM, which from the original response to my post, I understand is not set up for the frequency of my antenna. But, I have found no other cars at any of our many salvage yards in the Detroit area. I decided to plug in this SLCM to see if I could get some life out of the system.

This one had some corrosion on it, and clearly has gotten wet several times. Nevertheless, I plugged it in and connected the battery and immediately I heard an electrical motor noise from the front I'd never heard before (like a door lock). I then went and used the key in the drivers door to lock and unlock the doors and it works! I also tested both of the trunk release switches (which I have completely rewired) and BOTH work!!! I'm excited since this system has had ZERO life since I got the car. The fuel door which was previously unplugged, I reconnected and it is working correctly. I accidentally set off the alarm at one point and the lights/horn/siren all did their deafening dance so those systems are working. I hit the valet switch 5 times and the siren chirped for key programming, but I did not attempt to program the keys because the TSB said "do not attempt" if the frequencies do not match. This week I will mess with it more to see if there some new gremlins for me to sort out, and for now I will leave that 95 SLCM in there until I can find a 97 SLCM (for reasonable price).

And in case your curious, other things I took from the salvage car was a sunroof module and motor, digital clock, grill, rear tail lights, Servotronic module, and a few other things. Anything else I should grab off it before they crush it??? This one was so rusted that when they put the car on the rim "stilts" they use at the salvage yards, the wheels immediately crushed the floors. The brake pedal was jammed against the door.

 

The exterior lamp control module is different as is 2 seperate units intead of 1 , this accured after 95 production # x

Driver door window master control module

exhaust manifolds

Jaguar oood ornament

Cruise control actuator

Chrome side mirror

interior rear view mirror ( there are 2 types and can be rewired )

Handful of the different relays

Coolent fan control relay module { under the car fwd of the left front tire )

Alternator

Positive battery post terminal cable

 

Throttle position sensor and crank sensor to carry as spares.

 

Okay thanks for the tips. Hood ornament already gone :,(

I was surprised to see the valve cover was in excellent shape, aren't most of those totally beat up and corroded by now? Even my 52k mile XJ6 had some corrosion in the plug wells.

 

Mine isn’t too bad.

Magnesium valve covers usually suffer from flaking. Best example is the gold paint on older BMW V8s.

 

Parker I see you updated your list (or I missed your other items). Funny, I did actually take the positive battery cable already as the previous owner destroyed mine. I already installed it and it fits great. I'll see if I can get some of those other items. I am also interested to see if it has the original Bilstein shocks as my previous owner tossed mine and replaced them with some garbage china shocks and they do not ride well. I would attempt to rebuild a salvage yard set.