On the shocks it is important to replace both the upper and lower shock mount bushings

A on car visual inspection will revel some air gaps that is a source of underperformance

Motorcarman ( Bob ) has recommended using the original OEM on the lower bushings and not the cheaper manufactures like URO

See item # 8 times 2 for each left and right side

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/C50.C5057.C5057281.C50572814832/brand/jaguar/

See item # 13

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/C50.C5057.C5057409.C50574096314/brand/jaguar/

Don't tighten the battery post too tight as they will break the underside C shaped saddle nut

Battery shims can make up for the many years terminal clamp stretch

Your 97 has different ABS wheel speed sensors then the 95 and are worth not letting go

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/C50.C5058.C5058290.C50582903728/brand/jaguar/

 

Wait why did you mention ABS sensors at the end there?

 

They are expensive and hard to find and worth saving for someone else less melted down

Same can be said for the mass air flow sensor , The supercharged engine uses a different part # but the normally aspirated engine uses the same through the years

 

Haha it's funny you mentioned the driver door window master control module. Today I was messing around with the SLCM functions for closing all the windows (by holding the lock button) and now only the windows on the left side work, and only by the driver's switch. Even when I use the switch on the rear left door (which works by the driver's switch) the window won't go down. I don't want to hijack my own thread with this new topic because I've made 0% effort into fixing this, but I think I'm going to pick up that window control module XD

EDIT: wait it was just a blown 15A fuse, I see from the manual it is supposed to be a 30A so I swapped one and and good to go.

 

Well, months after my original post, this is completely fixed. It was only yesterday that I received my new-to-me 1997 SLCM, I was able to install it and program a key fob (very refreshing!). This was the second 1997 SLCM I ordered from a place called Jaguar Heaven in CA (~$125). The first module they sent was completely dead like the original, and they sent a replacement...replacement... at no cost. In the meantime I have been driving around with a 1995 SLCM which allowed the door locks and trunk release to operate (but not the key fobs). The 1995 SLCM part number ended in 001 and I needed one that ended in 009. I scoured the local salvage yards and found none. So now that things are all officially working, I wanted to give a quick summary for any of those who come after me with similar issues. Also, an important note, my US model does not have an immobilizer (controlled by the SLCM I think). If you have an immobilizer, you'd probably be in a much more desperate situation (AKA car won't run).

When I received the car, the door locks did not operate at all. Not from the exterior key switch, the interior Lock button, the key fobs, or by moving the front door lock rods up and down by hand (on an X300 if you manually lock or unlock the front doors, ALL the doors will automatically lock & unlock). The Lock button in the interior had no red light on. I could get the trunk open but only from an aftermarket switch the previous owner installed in the console. The cars siren never made any noise. The only sign of life was if you held the Lock button, the sliding roof motor would buzz (it was broken at the time, but it was clear that it was trying to do something). Later I found out that when the system is working properly, holding the lock button should close all the windows & sliding roof. That was probably the last sign of life for the module, it was sending a signal to the BCM which told the SRCM to close the sliding roof.

I started to dig further, and found that all of the door locks could be actuated by jumping the pins at the relays. All the relays were also good. I then checked about every single circuit in the system and found all of them were solid minus the trunk harness. To see all the things I tested, you'll have to read through this whole thread. Further inspection into the trunk wiring revealed the common trunk-hinge wiring failure. None of the wires were totally frayed, but many were damaged. I repaired all of the wiring and undid the nasty aftermarket circuit the previous owner wired in. I also discovered an aftermarket switch in the trunk to control the trunk lights, these must have also failed at some point. I removed all of their garbage wiring. I then tested the exterior trunk release switch as well as the trunk latch position switch. Fixing all of this did not fix the main problem though, the SLCM still had no life.

I finally found the PN 001 SLCM as I mentioned, which was wrong, but installing this made about everything work again except for the key fobs. Fun fact, once I switched to the correct 009 SLCM, the siren made very different noises, apparently they changed the tones through the years.

I'm not sure if the bad trunk wiring caused the SLCM to fail, or if the SLCM failed on it's own, but I would be surprised if the dead SLCM and the bad trunk wiring were isolated issues. I also wouldn't be surprised if the previous owner was trying to fix the trunk electrical issues and wasn't being careful and killed the SLCM by shorting the wrong pins. The SLCM has a TON of wiring, it goes allllll over the car for seemingly no reason.

I also noticed that the "Trunk Release Switch" and "Fascia Trunk Release Switch" wiring schematic is incorrect in the X300 Electrical Guide so watch out for that. I can't remember exactly but I know the wire colors and even the pin locations are reversed in the manual. The fascia release switch has multiple wire colors too, not just one.

I want to thank everyone for help on this one, it was quite a challenge!

 

Thanks for the update. Well Done! Your dedication to this feat of resolution is admirable. Now you can enjoy the "luxury" of proper remote lock/unlock, alarm protection and the occasional shriek of full alarm state! BTW don't hold the remote button down for more than 3 seconds or else the alarm will sound as a luxury panic alarm feature...

Previous owners' amateur hocus-pocus fixes make it much more frustrating to deal with for US.

You've taught me something I didn't know. It is the different SLCM that outputs the different sounding chirps from the siren. I noticed the difference between my 95 and 96 cars, they are distinctly different sounds. I always assumed the siren was the difference, not the module. I never checked into it, fortunately I didn't really need to. This "chirp changeover" must have happened with the new 433 MHz modules.