alternator not working properly
#1
alternator not working properly
so i realised today when i had to jump the car that my alternator is not working properly.
i tested the voltage with the car running and and it was fluctuating around 13 volts only.
so, my question is what is the actual amp rating of the alternator?
as i was thinking my best option is to get it rebuilt as a higher amp version say 100A as amongst my upgrades a larger stereo system with amps and what not will be coming at some point.
also i have from my old car its battery i was looking to put in.
it is a fair few years old but was only used for a very short time when it was purchased and then stored.
itt is 830CCA 100Ah so a bit larger than the 780CCA 85Ah so i was planning to put that in.
i tested the voltage with the car running and and it was fluctuating around 13 volts only.
so, my question is what is the actual amp rating of the alternator?
as i was thinking my best option is to get it rebuilt as a higher amp version say 100A as amongst my upgrades a larger stereo system with amps and what not will be coming at some point.
also i have from my old car its battery i was looking to put in.
it is a fair few years old but was only used for a very short time when it was purchased and then stored.
itt is 830CCA 100Ah so a bit larger than the 780CCA 85Ah so i was planning to put that in.
Last edited by Spud Maat; 01-10-2023 at 05:02 AM.
#2
The original alternator is a Denso 120 amp
The voltage regulator is a IN435 as a generic #
This is a fast response regulator for your stereo vs. the slower response IN225
Belts not glazed and proper tension ?
Where are you measuring volts ? Before you are to replace the alernator you would have to get a reading on the alternator B + post
There is a alternator battery cable connection / tie point at the starter solenoid that someone took a good pic as his was loose
In the first pic is the first connection aft and the only connection from the alternator B+ battery cable
As the starter cable comes back aft from the starter to the right front wheel well terminal post very near the engine rear firewall is the second connection , this heavy cable section would be considered a starter cable but serves 2 functions as the starter cable from the battery and path fwd to the alternator to tie it into the battery positive post
The voltage regulator is a IN435 as a generic #
This is a fast response regulator for your stereo vs. the slower response IN225
Belts not glazed and proper tension ?
Where are you measuring volts ? Before you are to replace the alernator you would have to get a reading on the alternator B + post
There is a alternator battery cable connection / tie point at the starter solenoid that someone took a good pic as his was loose
In the first pic is the first connection aft and the only connection from the alternator B+ battery cable
As the starter cable comes back aft from the starter to the right front wheel well terminal post very near the engine rear firewall is the second connection , this heavy cable section would be considered a starter cable but serves 2 functions as the starter cable from the battery and path fwd to the alternator to tie it into the battery positive post
Last edited by Parker 7; 01-10-2023 at 01:43 PM.
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piper 888 (01-11-2023)
#3
ok, so i discovered today after putting my battery on charge that it does not charge fully only reached a max of 12.5v not the 14.6 it should have, and was not holding the charge.
test it with a multimeter and getting a slightly lower voltage reading each time i tested.
so i will replace the battery before jumping to any conclusions.
the battery i thought i had as a spare is also not holding charge.
test it with a multimeter and getting a slightly lower voltage reading each time i tested.
so i will replace the battery before jumping to any conclusions.
the battery i thought i had as a spare is also not holding charge.
#4
I normally see 12.85 after a full battery charger recharge
You will see 13.5 to 14.5 with alternator spinning
You may be seeing a parasitic drain of the battery coming from the SLCM as it does not have all the agreements that you have the car buttoned up as you leave it
I know you put a aftermarket security system in your car but you may remove the # 3 or 4 fuse in the trunk , you can also switch off the auto switch on your steering column
Went to the salvage yard and have your armreast and cup holder , black plastic sliver devider just fwd of the ashtray , jack pad lids ....................missing anything?
Will have to return to get the seat belt latch in putting a battery in it to move the seat out of the way
You will see 13.5 to 14.5 with alternator spinning
You may be seeing a parasitic drain of the battery coming from the SLCM as it does not have all the agreements that you have the car buttoned up as you leave it
I know you put a aftermarket security system in your car but you may remove the # 3 or 4 fuse in the trunk , you can also switch off the auto switch on your steering column
Went to the salvage yard and have your armreast and cup holder , black plastic sliver devider just fwd of the ashtray , jack pad lids ....................missing anything?
Will have to return to get the seat belt latch in putting a battery in it to move the seat out of the way
Last edited by Parker 7; 01-11-2023 at 04:01 PM.
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Spud Maat (01-11-2023)
#5
No no, the battery is draining slowly when just sitting on the floor not connected.
I checked the car for a drain and only shows .25A drain so all good there. just the standard security system drain
awesome in regard to the parts. If you can maybe get the handbrake switch would be great also.
I checked the car for a drain and only shows .25A drain so all good there. just the standard security system drain
awesome in regard to the parts. If you can maybe get the handbrake switch would be great also.
Last edited by Spud Maat; 01-11-2023 at 04:44 PM.
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Parker 7 (01-11-2023)
#6
Hand brake switch , seat belt latch from right front seat , I will repair the cupholder
Color code from the donor car written down and took off with my brother's car ( will be back later ) but this armrest is in great chape including the small front curved cover
I will not put an oil based conditioner on it in case you need to dye it
Color code from the donor car written down and took off with my brother's car ( will be back later ) but this armrest is in great chape including the small front curved cover
I will not put an oil based conditioner on it in case you need to dye it
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Spud Maat (01-11-2023)
#7
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#8
#9
not sure bout that colour on the seatbelt latch.
guess i will see when it gets here
i did get a good working one already from Nobel Masri, but i cracked it, and when glueing it back together i have kind gunked up the insides. so it works, but doesn't click nicely. lol.
ADG is the right code and sounds like the right interior.
guess i will see when it gets here
i did get a good working one already from Nobel Masri, but i cracked it, and when glueing it back together i have kind gunked up the insides. so it works, but doesn't click nicely. lol.
ADG is the right code and sounds like the right interior.
#10
#11
i can colour it with the leather paint anyway.
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Parker 7 (01-11-2023)
#12
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If you have checked everything as Parker suggested and you are still only getting 13 volts and fluctuating, then I suggest the alternator has a problem and needs a visit to an auto electrician. (Possible diode problem?)
Most alternator outputs should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts
Also be wary of only .25 amp drain on the battery. Ther are 168 hours in a week and if the car is not started in that time it will drain 42 amp hours out of your battery ie half its rated 85 amp hour capacity.
If your battery is old, then it won't be holding the 85-amp hour capacity. It can be down to half that value and the battery can be flat in a week.
If your alternator does have a diode problem that can also drain the battery as there are no mechanical disconnects like in old cars regulator/cutout systems and the system depends on the alternator diodes to stop reverse flow.
Most alternator outputs should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts
Also be wary of only .25 amp drain on the battery. Ther are 168 hours in a week and if the car is not started in that time it will drain 42 amp hours out of your battery ie half its rated 85 amp hour capacity.
If your battery is old, then it won't be holding the 85-amp hour capacity. It can be down to half that value and the battery can be flat in a week.
If your alternator does have a diode problem that can also drain the battery as there are no mechanical disconnects like in old cars regulator/cutout systems and the system depends on the alternator diodes to stop reverse flow.
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