XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Another "No Start" Help!

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Old 10-16-2022, 12:13 AM
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Default Another "No Start" Help!

This forum is a great resource that I am not quite tech savy enough to take full advantage of.
Located in Newcastle, Australia.
I have perused the "No Start" sticky thread and employed a lot of the diagnostic ideas, without joy.
The car is a new to me, 1995 XJR6 which has been sitting for a few years.
I bought untested as a bargain deceased estate sale.
Drove her home with mixed results.
Mild throtle and she ran fine, spirited right foot and she would bog and shudder.
New plugs revealed leaking seals and plug tubes full of oil. New seals on the way.,
No light show, from coil packs, in a darkened shed at night. (When she was running, before current no start issue.)
Cleaned out the plug tubes and she ran better, even enjoying boost.
Then a very rough idle. Decided that a good drive might help, she ran fine for 40km and then lost power. No response to throttle, slowly died and was towed home.
Now, she will crank and fire, but will not idle. Fires and dies straight away. Stainless headers cold before a few start attempts, all get warm after a few starts, showing all six are firing.
I have replaced fuel filter. Cracked fuel line at injector rail and fuel pumps out with ignition key at pos II.
I have checked relays for fuctionality all over the engine bay, hoping to find something wrong.
No blown fuses, that I can find.
Tacho shows revs when she starts. CKPS ok, from what I have learnt here.
No engine codes on OBDII.
I am flying blind without knowing what systems are located where in the car.
Is there an idle control system that is not playing the game, after engine fires?
Throttle position sensor?
Any help would be much appreciated. And I apologise for asking with another thread, but am at a loss.
Cheers.
 
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Parker 7 (10-16-2022)
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Old 10-16-2022, 12:28 AM
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In rotating the ignition switch the fuel pump will come on for 3 seconds only then off

The fuel is trapped in the fuel rail by a check valve in the pump and the fuel pressure regulator

Once the Crankshaft position sensor sees enough engine rotation it will turn the fuel pump back on again for the duration of your drive

The CKPS can fail in this one aspect of the single signals usage , the other aspects are the tach and ignition timing

To test the fuel pump relay place your finger on it and it will click 3 times on - off - on

This one aspect of fuel pump enable can fail and not give a CEL code P0335

To override this and jumper the fuel pump to run at all times

This will drain your battery with the keys in your pocket

socket 3 to 5 is the power contact sockets

This process will take the fuel pump enable out of the equation

Ask Questions





 

Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 10-16-2022, 12:34 AM
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Thank you.
Where exactly is the fuel pump relay?
I have read that it is in the engine bay, next to windscreen washer bottle.
I have also read that it is in the boot fusebox, with green base.
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 12:36 AM
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Awesome. Picture had not loaded when I replied last.
Now I know.
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 12:44 AM
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Here is a link to the fuse and relay locations around page 17


X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 01:03 AM
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With your supercharged engine you have 2 fuel pumps to play with

The second one does not come on until 4000 rpm and drop out back at 3200

Your fuel injectors and mass air flow meter are specific to the supercharged engine

There are specific copper spark plugs to use per TSB and no exotics
 

Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 10-16-2022, 01:10 AM
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Fresh fuel ?
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 01:26 AM
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See page 51 for the AJ16 engine and not the AJ6

801S TITLE (jagrepair.com)

The TPS sensor will read 0.60 volts DC on the middle Green / Yellow color wire at the idle position

The MAF will read 1.2 volts DC at the proper idle on the Green / Pink color wire , this will only show the MAF is alive but not a calibration through its range

See page 63

www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf








 

Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 10-16-2022, 03:59 AM
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Many thanks. Exactly what I need to figure this out.
I bridged the fuel pump. Could hear it pumping with a gurgling sloshing sound, whilst stood at boot. Unsure what all the sloshing was about. At least a third of a tank showing on the guage.
Tried a start with same result. Fires almost immediately and then stalls.
Added 50 litres of fresh fuel on the drive home, less than a week ago.
Time to download and explore.
Will keep you informed with progress when I try more tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 08:00 AM
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Does the car have a filter for the feed inside the tank? Adding fresh fuel to manky stuff doesn’t always help if there is a lot of crud at the bottom…..
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 08:49 AM
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The sloshing sound in the tank is the return fuel line back into the tank from the bypassing fuel pressure regulator up front , this is natural

The fuel pressure is 43 PSI at idle

some X300 models do not have a siphon prevention trap in the fill neck , at least mine didn't

When you bridge the fuel pump relay it is recommended that you use male terminal ends on the jumper wire to ensure you have a good conductive path and not just jamming wires into the sockets

Your second fuel pump relay is fwd of the battery

My X300 is named Lady Penelope

To add another layer to the starting sequence in the initial engine rotations the ignition timing uses the Camshaft position sensor and after a certain point it reverts to the crankshaft position sensor

Your behavior points to a good CMPS and bad CKPS
 

Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 10-16-2022, 01:53 PM
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Default CKPS

I have read about the starting sequence. If one sensor goes bad the motor will crank a few revolutions until ECU senses position from only one sensor, rather than starting on the first revolution when reading both, or something to that effect.
I did quickly measure resistance of CKPS at 0.002 ohms, yesterday, just to confirm to myself that there was a reading and not a complete open circuit. Unsure what resistance should be.
But I am highly encouraged that your experience points me in the right direction.
As for fuel. The PO was a bit of a Jag fan who was of the school of thought to not leave stale fuel in cars. So kept minimum fuel in tanks. The family told me that they had added 15 litres of fresh fuel for my trip home. I have been of the understanding that keeping tanks full prevents condensation, thus minimising corrosion. The amount of fuel that pumps out of the fuel line, at fuel injector rail, points to there not being an issue with the pump, IMO.
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 04:03 PM
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The CKPS on the X300 read for me 1300 ohms as a fundamental reading , this will be the same for the wheel speed sensors

The CMPS is a hall effect sensor and reads 600 ohms

The CMPS is used first then reverts to the CKPS which is your area of interest
 
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Old 10-16-2022, 05:22 PM
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Default CKPS

It certainly does sounds as though I have a problem with the CKPS if it should have a reasonable resistance reading.
It is information like that which you have supplied, that makes the diagnosis so much easier. I really appreciate your help.
I am hopefully picking up rocker cover seals, from local dealer, today. I will enquire about CKPS and hopefully they will have one in stock.
 
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Old 10-17-2022, 12:26 AM
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I obtained a CKPS from a local auto parts store as it's not specific to Jaguar like a lot of the X300 parts and they designed it that way on purpose

Valve cover large outer rim seals can be problematic between manufactures and the accuracy of the mold

in removing the valve cover there is a D shape cut out in the rear that can leak and be hard to find

My gasket that came with mine was still soft and i myself never purchased a new one

I opened a new thread asking for the recommended manufacture of the gasket as there are many
 
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Old 10-17-2022, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Parker 7
I obtained a CKPS from a local auto parts store as it's not specific to Jaguar like a lot of the X300 parts and they designed it that way on purpose

Valve cover large outer rim seals can be problematic between manufactures and the accuracy of the mold

in removing the valve cover there is a D shape cut out in the rear that can leak and be hard to find

My gasket that came with mine was still soft and i myself never purchased a new one

I opened a new thread asking for the recommended manufacture of the gasket as there are many
I have shopped around and ordered a CKPS from a gent in Sydney.
Prices varied from $480 from Jaguar Australia down to $95.
The saving grace with the CKPS, on this vehicle in particular, is the ease of access.
Rocker cover gasket kit includes the perimeter gasket, six spark tube gaskets and thirteen fixing washer gaskets. Bought individually the price adds up very quickly.
I sourced a full kit from Jaguar Australia, as it worked out to be the best value. I don't know if genuine parts assures quality, but would like to think that quality will be at least adequate to hold oil in. 8-)
Of course, as luck is want to do, my gasket kit was held up by flood waters. Should be here tomorrow.
The next bridge to cross is the condition of the rocker cover itself. It has been painted black by PO. I'm hoping to not find any nasty corrosion, such as I have seen in other threads.
 
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Old 10-17-2022, 02:05 AM
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I was lucky and found an excellent one at a salvage yard and traded it

Spud Maat new contributor in north Sydney just did his valve cover , you can link up by private mail link on this forum
 
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Old 10-17-2022, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bosco15
I have shopped around and ordered a CKPS from a gent in Sydney.
Prices varied from $480 from Jaguar Australia down to $95.
The saving grace with the CKPS, on this vehicle in particular, is the ease of access.
Rocker cover gasket kit includes the perimeter gasket, six spark tube gaskets and thirteen fixing washer gaskets. Bought individually the price adds up very quickly.
I sourced a full kit from Jaguar Australia, as it worked out to be the best value. I don't know if genuine parts assures quality, but would like to think that quality will be at least adequate to hold oil in. 8-)
Of course, as luck is want to do, my gasket kit was held up by flood waters. Should be here tomorrow.
The next bridge to cross is the condition of the rocker cover itself. It has been painted black by PO. I'm hoping to not find any nasty corrosion, such as I have seen in other threads.
who did you use in sydney for parts?
Jag Works?
i honestly never thought of contacting jag direct for the gasket kit. i just assumed it would either be NLA or more expensive. what did the gasket kit cost you?
 
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Old 10-17-2022, 07:25 AM
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if you need to restore your valve cover have a look through here.
and feel free to ask anything.
it was a big job i had to do due to corrosion and holes.
my repair is holding up strong so far.
i liked the metallic finish from the por-15 but unfortunately i had to give it a top coat with hi-temp cus it began to yellow quite quickly.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-252889/page2/
 
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Old 10-17-2022, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Spud Maat
who did you use in sydney for parts?
Jag Works?
I honestly never thought of contacting jag direct for the gasket kit. i just assumed it would either be NLA or more expensive. what did the gasket kit cost you?
A lovely Gent called Geoff. JAGARA is his business name. Google will help. I think it's a hobby that has turned into a business helping out Jag owners.
Gasket kit was $138 Aus.from Jaguar Australia.
 


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