Another "No Start" Help!
#1
Another "No Start" Help!
This forum is a great resource that I am not quite tech savy enough to take full advantage of.
Located in Newcastle, Australia.
I have perused the "No Start" sticky thread and employed a lot of the diagnostic ideas, without joy.
The car is a new to me, 1995 XJR6 which has been sitting for a few years.
I bought untested as a bargain deceased estate sale.
Drove her home with mixed results.
Mild throtle and she ran fine, spirited right foot and she would bog and shudder.
New plugs revealed leaking seals and plug tubes full of oil. New seals on the way.,
No light show, from coil packs, in a darkened shed at night. (When she was running, before current no start issue.)
Cleaned out the plug tubes and she ran better, even enjoying boost.
Then a very rough idle. Decided that a good drive might help, she ran fine for 40km and then lost power. No response to throttle, slowly died and was towed home.
Now, she will crank and fire, but will not idle. Fires and dies straight away. Stainless headers cold before a few start attempts, all get warm after a few starts, showing all six are firing.
I have replaced fuel filter. Cracked fuel line at injector rail and fuel pumps out with ignition key at pos II.
I have checked relays for fuctionality all over the engine bay, hoping to find something wrong.
No blown fuses, that I can find.
Tacho shows revs when she starts. CKPS ok, from what I have learnt here.
No engine codes on OBDII.
I am flying blind without knowing what systems are located where in the car.
Is there an idle control system that is not playing the game, after engine fires?
Throttle position sensor?
Any help would be much appreciated. And I apologise for asking with another thread, but am at a loss.
Cheers.
Located in Newcastle, Australia.
I have perused the "No Start" sticky thread and employed a lot of the diagnostic ideas, without joy.
The car is a new to me, 1995 XJR6 which has been sitting for a few years.
I bought untested as a bargain deceased estate sale.
Drove her home with mixed results.
Mild throtle and she ran fine, spirited right foot and she would bog and shudder.
New plugs revealed leaking seals and plug tubes full of oil. New seals on the way.,
No light show, from coil packs, in a darkened shed at night. (When she was running, before current no start issue.)
Cleaned out the plug tubes and she ran better, even enjoying boost.
Then a very rough idle. Decided that a good drive might help, she ran fine for 40km and then lost power. No response to throttle, slowly died and was towed home.
Now, she will crank and fire, but will not idle. Fires and dies straight away. Stainless headers cold before a few start attempts, all get warm after a few starts, showing all six are firing.
I have replaced fuel filter. Cracked fuel line at injector rail and fuel pumps out with ignition key at pos II.
I have checked relays for fuctionality all over the engine bay, hoping to find something wrong.
No blown fuses, that I can find.
Tacho shows revs when she starts. CKPS ok, from what I have learnt here.
No engine codes on OBDII.
I am flying blind without knowing what systems are located where in the car.
Is there an idle control system that is not playing the game, after engine fires?
Throttle position sensor?
Any help would be much appreciated. And I apologise for asking with another thread, but am at a loss.
Cheers.
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Parker 7 (10-16-2022)
#2
In rotating the ignition switch the fuel pump will come on for 3 seconds only then off
The fuel is trapped in the fuel rail by a check valve in the pump and the fuel pressure regulator
Once the Crankshaft position sensor sees enough engine rotation it will turn the fuel pump back on again for the duration of your drive
The CKPS can fail in this one aspect of the single signals usage , the other aspects are the tach and ignition timing
To test the fuel pump relay place your finger on it and it will click 3 times on - off - on
This one aspect of fuel pump enable can fail and not give a CEL code P0335
To override this and jumper the fuel pump to run at all times
This will drain your battery with the keys in your pocket
socket 3 to 5 is the power contact sockets
This process will take the fuel pump enable out of the equation
Ask Questions
The fuel is trapped in the fuel rail by a check valve in the pump and the fuel pressure regulator
Once the Crankshaft position sensor sees enough engine rotation it will turn the fuel pump back on again for the duration of your drive
The CKPS can fail in this one aspect of the single signals usage , the other aspects are the tach and ignition timing
To test the fuel pump relay place your finger on it and it will click 3 times on - off - on
This one aspect of fuel pump enable can fail and not give a CEL code P0335
To override this and jumper the fuel pump to run at all times
This will drain your battery with the keys in your pocket
socket 3 to 5 is the power contact sockets
This process will take the fuel pump enable out of the equation
Ask Questions
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 12:56 AM.
#3
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Bosco15 (10-16-2022)
#6
With your supercharged engine you have 2 fuel pumps to play with
The second one does not come on until 4000 rpm and drop out back at 3200
Your fuel injectors and mass air flow meter are specific to the supercharged engine
There are specific copper spark plugs to use per TSB and no exotics
The second one does not come on until 4000 rpm and drop out back at 3200
Your fuel injectors and mass air flow meter are specific to the supercharged engine
There are specific copper spark plugs to use per TSB and no exotics
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 01:06 AM.
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Cafcpete (10-16-2022)
Trending Topics
#8
See page 51 for the AJ16 engine and not the AJ6
801S TITLE (jagrepair.com)
The TPS sensor will read 0.60 volts DC on the middle Green / Yellow color wire at the idle position
The MAF will read 1.2 volts DC at the proper idle on the Green / Pink color wire , this will only show the MAF is alive but not a calibration through its range
See page 63
www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
801S TITLE (jagrepair.com)
The TPS sensor will read 0.60 volts DC on the middle Green / Yellow color wire at the idle position
The MAF will read 1.2 volts DC at the proper idle on the Green / Pink color wire , this will only show the MAF is alive but not a calibration through its range
See page 63
www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 01:42 AM.
#9
Excellent
Many thanks. Exactly what I need to figure this out.
I bridged the fuel pump. Could hear it pumping with a gurgling sloshing sound, whilst stood at boot. Unsure what all the sloshing was about. At least a third of a tank showing on the guage.
Tried a start with same result. Fires almost immediately and then stalls.
Added 50 litres of fresh fuel on the drive home, less than a week ago.
Time to download and explore.
Will keep you informed with progress when I try more tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help.
I bridged the fuel pump. Could hear it pumping with a gurgling sloshing sound, whilst stood at boot. Unsure what all the sloshing was about. At least a third of a tank showing on the guage.
Tried a start with same result. Fires almost immediately and then stalls.
Added 50 litres of fresh fuel on the drive home, less than a week ago.
Time to download and explore.
Will keep you informed with progress when I try more tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help.
The following users liked this post:
Bosco15 (10-16-2022)
#11
The sloshing sound in the tank is the return fuel line back into the tank from the bypassing fuel pressure regulator up front , this is natural
The fuel pressure is 43 PSI at idle
some X300 models do not have a siphon prevention trap in the fill neck , at least mine didn't
When you bridge the fuel pump relay it is recommended that you use male terminal ends on the jumper wire to ensure you have a good conductive path and not just jamming wires into the sockets
Your second fuel pump relay is fwd of the battery
My X300 is named Lady Penelope
To add another layer to the starting sequence in the initial engine rotations the ignition timing uses the Camshaft position sensor and after a certain point it reverts to the crankshaft position sensor
Your behavior points to a good CMPS and bad CKPS
The fuel pressure is 43 PSI at idle
some X300 models do not have a siphon prevention trap in the fill neck , at least mine didn't
When you bridge the fuel pump relay it is recommended that you use male terminal ends on the jumper wire to ensure you have a good conductive path and not just jamming wires into the sockets
Your second fuel pump relay is fwd of the battery
My X300 is named Lady Penelope
To add another layer to the starting sequence in the initial engine rotations the ignition timing uses the Camshaft position sensor and after a certain point it reverts to the crankshaft position sensor
Your behavior points to a good CMPS and bad CKPS
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-16-2022 at 09:01 AM.
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Bosco15 (10-16-2022)
#12
CKPS
I have read about the starting sequence. If one sensor goes bad the motor will crank a few revolutions until ECU senses position from only one sensor, rather than starting on the first revolution when reading both, or something to that effect.
I did quickly measure resistance of CKPS at 0.002 ohms, yesterday, just to confirm to myself that there was a reading and not a complete open circuit. Unsure what resistance should be.
But I am highly encouraged that your experience points me in the right direction.
As for fuel. The PO was a bit of a Jag fan who was of the school of thought to not leave stale fuel in cars. So kept minimum fuel in tanks. The family told me that they had added 15 litres of fresh fuel for my trip home. I have been of the understanding that keeping tanks full prevents condensation, thus minimising corrosion. The amount of fuel that pumps out of the fuel line, at fuel injector rail, points to there not being an issue with the pump, IMO.
I did quickly measure resistance of CKPS at 0.002 ohms, yesterday, just to confirm to myself that there was a reading and not a complete open circuit. Unsure what resistance should be.
But I am highly encouraged that your experience points me in the right direction.
As for fuel. The PO was a bit of a Jag fan who was of the school of thought to not leave stale fuel in cars. So kept minimum fuel in tanks. The family told me that they had added 15 litres of fresh fuel for my trip home. I have been of the understanding that keeping tanks full prevents condensation, thus minimising corrosion. The amount of fuel that pumps out of the fuel line, at fuel injector rail, points to there not being an issue with the pump, IMO.
#14
CKPS
It certainly does sounds as though I have a problem with the CKPS if it should have a reasonable resistance reading.
It is information like that which you have supplied, that makes the diagnosis so much easier. I really appreciate your help.
I am hopefully picking up rocker cover seals, from local dealer, today. I will enquire about CKPS and hopefully they will have one in stock.
It is information like that which you have supplied, that makes the diagnosis so much easier. I really appreciate your help.
I am hopefully picking up rocker cover seals, from local dealer, today. I will enquire about CKPS and hopefully they will have one in stock.
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Parker 7 (10-17-2022)
#15
I obtained a CKPS from a local auto parts store as it's not specific to Jaguar like a lot of the X300 parts and they designed it that way on purpose
Valve cover large outer rim seals can be problematic between manufactures and the accuracy of the mold
in removing the valve cover there is a D shape cut out in the rear that can leak and be hard to find
My gasket that came with mine was still soft and i myself never purchased a new one
I opened a new thread asking for the recommended manufacture of the gasket as there are many
Valve cover large outer rim seals can be problematic between manufactures and the accuracy of the mold
in removing the valve cover there is a D shape cut out in the rear that can leak and be hard to find
My gasket that came with mine was still soft and i myself never purchased a new one
I opened a new thread asking for the recommended manufacture of the gasket as there are many
#16
I obtained a CKPS from a local auto parts store as it's not specific to Jaguar like a lot of the X300 parts and they designed it that way on purpose
Valve cover large outer rim seals can be problematic between manufactures and the accuracy of the mold
in removing the valve cover there is a D shape cut out in the rear that can leak and be hard to find
My gasket that came with mine was still soft and i myself never purchased a new one
I opened a new thread asking for the recommended manufacture of the gasket as there are many
Valve cover large outer rim seals can be problematic between manufactures and the accuracy of the mold
in removing the valve cover there is a D shape cut out in the rear that can leak and be hard to find
My gasket that came with mine was still soft and i myself never purchased a new one
I opened a new thread asking for the recommended manufacture of the gasket as there are many
Prices varied from $480 from Jaguar Australia down to $95.
The saving grace with the CKPS, on this vehicle in particular, is the ease of access.
Rocker cover gasket kit includes the perimeter gasket, six spark tube gaskets and thirteen fixing washer gaskets. Bought individually the price adds up very quickly.
I sourced a full kit from Jaguar Australia, as it worked out to be the best value. I don't know if genuine parts assures quality, but would like to think that quality will be at least adequate to hold oil in. 8-)
Of course, as luck is want to do, my gasket kit was held up by flood waters. Should be here tomorrow.
The next bridge to cross is the condition of the rocker cover itself. It has been painted black by PO. I'm hoping to not find any nasty corrosion, such as I have seen in other threads.
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Bosco15 (10-17-2022)
#18
I have shopped around and ordered a CKPS from a gent in Sydney.
Prices varied from $480 from Jaguar Australia down to $95.
The saving grace with the CKPS, on this vehicle in particular, is the ease of access.
Rocker cover gasket kit includes the perimeter gasket, six spark tube gaskets and thirteen fixing washer gaskets. Bought individually the price adds up very quickly.
I sourced a full kit from Jaguar Australia, as it worked out to be the best value. I don't know if genuine parts assures quality, but would like to think that quality will be at least adequate to hold oil in. 8-)
Of course, as luck is want to do, my gasket kit was held up by flood waters. Should be here tomorrow.
The next bridge to cross is the condition of the rocker cover itself. It has been painted black by PO. I'm hoping to not find any nasty corrosion, such as I have seen in other threads.
Prices varied from $480 from Jaguar Australia down to $95.
The saving grace with the CKPS, on this vehicle in particular, is the ease of access.
Rocker cover gasket kit includes the perimeter gasket, six spark tube gaskets and thirteen fixing washer gaskets. Bought individually the price adds up very quickly.
I sourced a full kit from Jaguar Australia, as it worked out to be the best value. I don't know if genuine parts assures quality, but would like to think that quality will be at least adequate to hold oil in. 8-)
Of course, as luck is want to do, my gasket kit was held up by flood waters. Should be here tomorrow.
The next bridge to cross is the condition of the rocker cover itself. It has been painted black by PO. I'm hoping to not find any nasty corrosion, such as I have seen in other threads.
Jag Works?
i honestly never thought of contacting jag direct for the gasket kit. i just assumed it would either be NLA or more expensive. what did the gasket kit cost you?
#19
if you need to restore your valve cover have a look through here.
and feel free to ask anything.
it was a big job i had to do due to corrosion and holes.
my repair is holding up strong so far.
i liked the metallic finish from the por-15 but unfortunately i had to give it a top coat with hi-temp cus it began to yellow quite quickly.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-252889/page2/
and feel free to ask anything.
it was a big job i had to do due to corrosion and holes.
my repair is holding up strong so far.
i liked the metallic finish from the por-15 but unfortunately i had to give it a top coat with hi-temp cus it began to yellow quite quickly.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-252889/page2/
#20
Sydney
Gasket kit was $138 Aus.from Jaguar Australia.