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A lovely Gent called Geoff. JAGARA is his business name. Google will help. I think it's a hobby that has turned into a business helping out Jag owners.
Gasket kit was $138 Aus.from Jaguar Australia.
ah yes.
down at carringbah.
i spoke to him one time only looking for second hand parts.
he was unable to help me at the time but was really nice to chat with and knows his stuff.
Disappointing results this morning.
Drove an hour to pick up the rocker cover seal "KIT", that I had ordered from Jaguar Australia, only to find one only perimeter gasket.
I had specified a kit, and ensured through conversation that it included all twenty seals. The Price was reasonable, so I ordered one.
When I queried where the rest of the seals were, it turns out to not be a kit but needs to be ordered separately.
Too expensive.
Disappointing results this morning.
Drove an hour to pick up the rocker cover seal "KIT", that I had ordered from Jaguar Australia, only to find one only perimeter gasket.
I had specified a kit, and ensured through conversation that it included all twenty seals. The Price was reasonable, so I ordered one.
When I queried where the rest of the seals were, it turns out to not be a kit but needs to be ordered separately.
Too expensive.
man that sucks.
try jag daim
they only currently have the cam cover gasket listed on their ebay store.
but call them up,
ask for the
Cam cover gasket
spark plug seals
Cam cover bolt seals
ignition coil gaskets
Thanks all for your valuable inputs.
I have had a few frustrating days of testing and diagnostics and prayers and have finally got the big cat to run again.
I removed the CKPS and bench tested it ok. It was providing an ac voltage when induced.
I reinstalled it and tried to fire the motor up for the fiftieth time. Again, kick fire stall.
Scratching my head for what I had done that may have caused an issue, I looked to the airbox that I had to manufacture in order to pass safety inspection. (Which I removed on the side of the road, when she first broke down with no effect on running)
Days later my thoughts lead me to investigate the MAF sensor. Insulation had already been cut back (by PO?) On pink wire( for testing purposes?)
Maybe something had shorted to the bonnet because my airbox was bigger than stock?
Long story short, I disconnected the sensor plug and tried to start the car. Success. She fired and idled without the MAF sensor. Plugged it back in and she stayed running. Stopped the motor and started again without issue.
If only I had disconnected at the side of the road.🤦
Intriguing that the ECU had shut down the running of the motor because of a signal that it didn't like from the MAF and kept it disabled until I disconnected the sensor and reset the signal. (That's how I see it anyway.)
The MAF is feed a battery voltage and not the usual 5.0 volts reference voltage for the other sensors by the ECU
You won't see the 1.2 v at idle unless connector plugged in and engine running
More valuable information. Thank you.
I was so happy when she started and idled. Even restarted and idled.
Later in the evening I tried to start her again and got the crank fire stall event, again. Unplugged the MAF and she fired right up.
With the MAF being unique to the XJR, obsolet and rare as rocking horse poo, I am preying that the MAF is not the part which is causing my issue.
Trying to understand the sequence, during start up.
With the MAF plugged in, the ECU is receiving a signal of air flow and deciding to shut the engine down. With the MAF unplugged, the ECU is not receiving a signal of air flow and allows a normal idle.
🤔
Took the big girl for a spirited drive, this morning.
First thing, she fired ran and stalled. Pulled the MAF plug and she fired and idled. Refit plug and drove away, praying that I would not have to employ the services of a tow truck again.
A spirited drive and she's pulling hard and putting a huge smile on my dial.
Stop for a brief break and she started up first kick.
Repeat and got consistent results.
For now, I am happy that whatever problem caused my loss of power and no run issues, has cleared itself. An Italian tune success. 8-)
The engine coolant may have gotten over 88 C to get into ECU close loop mode
In the closed loop mode t and not before that ) he O2 sensors determine your fuel mixture or injector pulse width and with that you may be in more of a range of a tuned engine regulation minus the error induced by a incorrect MAF signal that may or may not be excepted by the ECU
The engine coolant may have gotten over 88 C to get into ECU close loop mode
In the closed loop mode t and not before that ) he O2 sensors determine your fuel mixture or injector pulse width and with that you may be in more of a range of a tuned engine regulation minus the error induced by a incorrect MAF signal that may or may not be excepted by the ECU
Your smog pump by then should be off
The EVAP vavlve should be open
One factor that I have not mentioned so far, but may be pertinent now that you have taught me that O2 sensors play a big part in tuning.
When I looked under the car, when on the tow truck bed, I was astounded to see how low the exhaust pipes hung under the floor pan.
When I tried a start, after tow truck delivery, there was a loud "blow" noise from header to exhaust joint.
I investigated and found that the pipes had, in fact, worked their way down the header pipes so far that the split joint was allowing gasses to blow by. The O2 sensors are just downstream of slip joint. I jacked the pipes back up onto the headers to their full extent.
Now, it seems that perhaps with the pipes leaking (so close to O2 sensors) that the ECU may not have been getting good readings or the sensors themselves may not have been getting hot enough gas.
I am slowly learning and appreciate your help with the process, more than you know.
If there is a crack in the cast iron manifolds themselves this will allow fresh unconsumed O2 to the sensors causing the ECU to go rich mixture once the O2 sensors are used
loose studs on the downpipe at the 2 donut gaskets will do the same thing
In replacing the donut gaskets if you do be careful to not let the flare on the donut seat get distorted by the downward pointing manifold studs interference fit maneuvering into position
There is a exhaust pipe mounting hanger clamp just as it turns flat under the floor pan that can be difficult to remove and it may have been just cut off
If there is a crack in the cast iron manifolds themselves this will allow fresh unconsumed O2 to the sensors causing the ECU to go rich mixture once the O2 sensors are used
loose studs on the downpipe at the 2 donut gaskets will do the same thing
In replacing the donut gaskets if you do be careful to not let the flare on the donut seat get distorted by the downward pointing manifold studs interference fit maneuvering into position
There is a exhaust pipe mounting hanger clamp just as it turns flat under the floor pan that can be difficult to remove and it may have been just cut off
I imagine that the hanger bracket was cut off. I thought it strange that there was no support and noted that it was a job that needs doing.
10-17-2022, 05:16 PM
