Hello everyone,

I just bought a 1996 X300 RHD with the 3.2 Liter Engine that does not crank and the shifter won't move out of Park. I bought the car from a friend who went off the road with it into the gravel bed, he said after he went into the gravel the engine ran for about 5 seconds and then died. In the accident the wiring harness under the right fender got destroyed, i replaced it with a good used one. Since this accident, it won't start / crank anymore.

I already went through a lot of topics here and checked a few things:
- I hear no clicking when touching the brake pedal from the shifter, but the P glows red when the shifter is in Park
- I did put the shifter in Neutral manually, no effect
- I checked the inertia switch, i didn't feel any response pressing on the rubber cap, so i think it was okay, anyway i connected the two white (respectively white with stripes of another color i can't remember) wires with a paper clip -> no effect
- the battery is fully charged and well connected
- I checked all fuses in the trunk
- the large connector above the fuel tank is connected

I'm not sure where to continue, i'm very thankful for futher input where to continue with the troubleshooting.
Might it be helpful to wire a temporary/permanent starting button directly to the starter or won't that work?

best regards
Tim

 

The shift lock is a solenoid and fuse

The starter solenoid relay has control power from a fuse in the right engine bay fuse box and the White / Pink wire passes through the Papa Indy 1 connector in position 4

If you replaced the right wire harness you disturbed the Papa Indy 1 connector next to the similar Papa Indy 61 connector

This connector is on the chassis rail about 15 inches behind the headlights

Pic coming



This is a pic of the V - 12 starter circuit but your 3.2 is the same at the starter solenoid relay

 

Thank you very much for your help with the pictures!
Today i had time again for the Jag and started with the white/pink wire in the Papy Indy 1 connector, it had 12V with the ignition on, so nothing is wrong with the wiring harness up to that point. I checked all fuses, pulled a lot of relais, nothing seemed wrong so far. Then i shorted the brake switch to be sure it is ok, it made no difference. I exchanged the shift interlock relay and the keylock relay, no difference, so i think both of them are fine. After that i wiggled the shifter *** in Park very hard from side so side and out of nowhere the solenoid got power and i was able to move the shifter and the car started right up. That confused me, the P was glowing red and the microswitch clicked before i did that, but i think now it's brighter. But when i shift into neutral the N isn't illuminated all the time. What exactly is the fault now? The big linear gear position switch or the smaller microswitch?
Since the car wasn't expensive at all, i'd like to replace everything that could have led to this trouble (or might do in the future), which parts should i replace? I thought about the linear gear switch, the microswitch and the small shift interlock relay, is there anything else to add to this list?

Thank you so much for the help
Tim

 

Thinking

The linier switch has to do with indication and the not in park switch has to do with starter solenoid relay clicking closed for starter rotation

Have you placed your finger on the starter solenoid relay as this splits the starter system in half

 

i forgot to test that while troubleshooting, but i think the trouble must have been caused by the not in park switch then. So just that i get this right, the not in park switch is the little microswitch next to the linear switch? I found that one new online (aftermarket) for little money.

Another question: Instead of replacing the microswitch, can i just bypass / short it or will that confuse the BPM or anything else? I'm the only one who is driving my cars and never had the idea to start a car that's in gear, so i won't need a safety device for that.

 

The not in park switch that gives you the click by finger on the key barrel comes in 3 pole stubs to be a normal closed or normal open switch

The dimension of the red button throw to make is inportant

Have you placed your finger on the key barrel is you slightly move the shift lever out of the park detent / gate ?

 

i checked that today: as soon as i move the shifter slightly out of park, i can feel a click in the key barrel, so that seems to work fine now.

recent update: After the last post i parked the Jag perfectly running, driving and perfectly starting again and again (i tested it about 10 times). Yesterday i tried to drive it again: dead. The shifter is still working fine though, all letters except the N (needs a bit of wiggling to come on) light up red immediately, it unlocks when i touch the brake, so far so good? But when i turn the key: No crank, no start. As far as i understood: The not in park switch is disabled when i unplug it? That made no difference though.

I chased the white/pink wire from the Papa Indy Connector up to the start relay socket, 12V are present there with the ignition on. When i short the two thick wires in the starter relay socket, the engine cranks fine, and i can smell fuel after a while since it's not starting.

What went wrong now?

 

Dinner time

Stand by

 

A starter enable is the engine ECU must be powered

2 relays must click by feel by removing them with the key in run position

Right engine bay fuse box relay in the corner and large ECU control relay by the right headlight

You have some swapping options

 

thank you! I will have a look at the ECU relay later today and report the results. The relay in the right engine bay fuse box is working, i pulled and swapped that with other relays, they all clicked when pulled and put back in.

 

The large ECU control relay is the power " sitting " on your fuel injectors and the same power runs on a wire powering the ECU for the high power side of the ECU

The injectors are opened by the ECU providing a ground on 6 wires

 

i checked that now, the ECU Relay clicks fine when pulled / put back in.

 

In replacing the wire harness on the right side did you on the 48 pin RS3 connector pull the lock bar over

This can break the lock pins if handled to harshly

There is a same connector above the fuel tank as the BT4 connector that has a tie wrap on it to keep the lock bar over and tight

 

yes, one of the locking pins is broken off, but i took it apart again and made sure it has good contact and is well connected, it made no difference.

 

Oddly some starting and fuel pump wires go back up fwd to the Papa Indy 1 and 61 connectors and return aft

On mine the RS3 connector was damage by a wreck by the previous owner and not replaced but held together with a tie wrap around the whole connector , this is different then the lock bar being held over

On mine the fuel pump control was affected and a work around was wired to have the fuel pump on key rotation

Will have to go back and review your findings and get back with you

There is a little difference between the RS3 and BT4 connector as the RS3 is thicker

 

What makes me wonder is that it worked fine when parked and i changed nothing than disconnecting and reconnecting the battery for replacing it with a new one. Since this is a euro RHD version, does it has an immobilizer or security device that could lead to this? I read about the security/locking module since the doorlocks aren‘t working, but on the other hand it ran fine with the locks not working…

 

The US models do not have the key chip transponder ( exciter ) so I leave it out of thought

I did go through the transponder before for someone with drawn out wiring routes will have to retrieve

 

This is a pic of the 4.0 liter system with the different ZF4HP24 transmission

Your 3.2 liter with the ZF4HP22 transmission does not have the transmission mounted rotary position switch and some other differences I'll have in a replacement pic later

But you may be able to follow the digital signal which makes it hard to troubleshoot but maybe there is a way

There is another pic showing the ring around the key barrel to the decoder

If it gets to it the engine ECU may be modified by Andy to negate the security inhibits


This is another pic by me as I developed an understanding of the chip in key barrel ring

 

Thanks a lot for this info, i will see what i can do. Sadly i‘m not able to track digital signals.

I had a look: none of the locks work and the check engine won‘t stay on with the ignition on, i think that means it‘s Immobilized.
i asked the previous owner: He said the key fobs were defective forever, too bad.

is it possible to replace my Security and Lock Module with a US version without the immobilizer?

 

There is the cost of trying something you don't know it would resolve with certainty.

Andy ( XJRengineer ) in England can delete the immobilization in the engine ECU

Your check engine light sequence probably comes from the engine ECU