Bypass voltage damper for testing purposes
#2
By voltage damper do you mean the voltage regulator or the noise suppressor as that dampens the reflective wave pattern after the rectifier converts the AC generator full wave pattern to a somewhat DC signal ? To test the noise suppressor put the meter on resistance and a good one will climb in value as the meter charges up the capacitor which is what it is . Short the terminals to discharge and watch it climb again .
The regulator bypass will allow to much excitation to the field windings which will burn up the generator wires . Otherwise you look for the B + post final output of around 13.5 to 14.5 volts .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-...AAAOSwLVZVlHuJ
The regulator bypass will allow to much excitation to the field windings which will burn up the generator wires . Otherwise you look for the B + post final output of around 13.5 to 14.5 volts .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-...AAAOSwLVZVlHuJ
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 12-01-2017 at 10:36 AM.
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Don B (12-01-2017)
#3
#4
If you remove it you would get dirty DC power that would effect many things including radio as a classic example .
If you but a meter on the battery positive post and read 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC as you run the engine you have a good regulator ( although it can fail as it gets hotter in a drive ) . This 13.5 is above the battery voltage of 12.77 so the 1 volt or so charges the battery .
There are some items tapped into the voltage regulator car wiring before the actual alternator that can suck the signal down and kill the alternators output .
Any questions , just ask
If you but a meter on the battery positive post and read 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC as you run the engine you have a good regulator ( although it can fail as it gets hotter in a drive ) . This 13.5 is above the battery voltage of 12.77 so the 1 volt or so charges the battery .
There are some items tapped into the voltage regulator car wiring before the actual alternator that can suck the signal down and kill the alternators output .
Any questions , just ask
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 12-01-2017 at 10:57 AM.
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Don B (12-01-2017)
#5
#6
I would recommend keeping the suppression module intact and run the engine to see if you have the recommended 13.5 to 14.5 volts . You can remove the alternator and the auto parts store will spin it up on a machine for free as they want to sell you one if it's bad . Get the printout of the results
Do the capacitor test on the suppression module as there is a connector you can remove not far from the alternator terminal post . If The Cap is bad it will be obvious .
suppression modules don't fail very often .
Do the capacitor test on the suppression module as there is a connector you can remove not far from the alternator terminal post . If The Cap is bad it will be obvious .
suppression modules don't fail very often .
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Don B (12-01-2017)
#7
On a practical side , before you remove the alternator . If you can run the car intact to the auto part store they can check the battery at the same time as it may not be excepting a charge . Today's batteries are junk so you can't go by their age , even new ones . As the battery gets below 11.5 volts the engine ECU will act up so have someone follow you with jumper cables to recharge if necessary .
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Don B (12-01-2017)
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#8
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Hi YEOMANSC,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
It might help us offer the most assistance if you could give us a little more background. Is the only issue the illuminated battery light on the instrument cluster, or is the car exhibiting symptoms of a failing battery or charging system issues?
In addition to the tests Lady P has outlined, you can also do some basic tests of the alternator, the diodes in the rectifier, and resistance and voltage drop in the battery power-alternator wiring. The document at this link explains the test procedures:
http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/aut...e/beatbook.pdf
Cheers,
Don
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
It might help us offer the most assistance if you could give us a little more background. Is the only issue the illuminated battery light on the instrument cluster, or is the car exhibiting symptoms of a failing battery or charging system issues?
In addition to the tests Lady P has outlined, you can also do some basic tests of the alternator, the diodes in the rectifier, and resistance and voltage drop in the battery power-alternator wiring. The document at this link explains the test procedures:
http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/aut...e/beatbook.pdf
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 12-02-2017 at 08:52 AM.
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Lady Penelope (12-02-2017)