My 97 (base XJ6) began making a little compressor noise that I noticed from outside the car, and watching the compressor, noticed that while clutch is disengaged the pulley spins perfectly fine. When the clutch kicks in though, the pulley assembly wobbles a bit and there is a noise like bearings dying (not too bad yet, but will obviously get worse). So far the A/C still functions fine.

Questions:
- Is this indeed bearings going out, or just something loose? I'm a decent home mechanic so can I repair this myself if simple enough.
- Is this likely going to cause contamination and failure of the system if left alone for a while?
- If I have to replace components, what should that be? All of them?
Compressor
Receiver/Dryer
Condenser
Expansion Valve

Anything else? I know this will be an expensive undertaking. If I leave it alone for now (I can't afford this fix yet), will it potentially cause more damage to more parts, or should I disable the A/C (pull fuse best?) for now until I can afford a proper fix? How hard is replacing the evaporator?

 

Its most likely going to be the idler pulley, not a difficult job unless tensioner bolt is stuck. Simply loosen up the bolt holding up tensioner to the bracket, then undo the tensioner bolt itself, remove belt, remove two(?) bolts holding up bracket itself, replace tensioner idler with either original, gates 38007 or something similar. I think last time I've done this job I've searched for AC pulley and found a number of them in similar size.
That should hopefully fix it.
If its actually clutch bearing itself, its also possible to do it without removing compressor off the car. You will however, need to remove bolts holding it up so the compressor can be turned for better access. I think there was simply a single bolt holding up clutch, then a circlip and clutch can then be pulled fairly easily off the compressor, make sure to not loose little spacer that is used for clutch adjustment.
Its of course much easier to do it if you empty the system first, then you can remove compressor and swap bearing on bench that said I'd try the pulley first as its most likely culprit.
If you do remove compressor of the car, you'll need new receiver dryer, probably good time to replace condenser as the old one is most likely falling apart and you'll also need to o-rings on the hoses going into compressor, the old ones will most likely leak when you undo the hoses off compressor and try to reuse them.
Condenser is approx $100, dryer maybe $40, o-rings maybe a tenner, no expansion valve as such on x300.
Puller was quite cheap and clutch bearing is maybe a tenner too, cant remember number though.
Good luck!

 

https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s..._Products.html

The bearing is avail through them

Your compressor is a Denso 10PA - X , labeled on top

The bolt is a 10 mm and if you have a good grip from the belt still being in place you might be able to break it loose without removing the compressoe . Otherwise you have to take it to a shop and have them inpact gun it off


See video part 2

 

As stated the Idler pulley is the easiest first check. Without the belt on, you will also be able to turn the a/c pulley and the compressor by hand. That might help to trace the problem by feel. Engage the clutch and see if it seems loose. Keep in mind there will be some uneven resistance when turning the compressor by hand, but there should not be any side-to-side play.

I am in favor leaving the sealed system undisturbed if possible. Once the system is opened, so then is a large can of worms, with multiple components needing attention, plus evacuation and recharge. The clutch/coil/bearing unit can be replaced without opening the sealed system.

The car can be run and driven without the a/c belt while you investigate.

Replacing the evaporator in the dash is an involved job. It is unlikely you would need to replace it unless it is the known source of a problem.

 

Many thanks for the advice! I will pull the belt and check the idler and clutch/pulley bearings. Likely replace the idler and clutch bearing, and belt while there, thanks!

 

I had a frozen idler pulley long adjustment bolt

Best not to strip the 4 sided adjustment bolt head

You can cut the belt off then remove the idler pully bracket as awhole and work it on a bench

the threaded square block took a heat gun , penetrating oil , and a lot of working the threads back and forth to eventually clean the treads out

on reinstallation you can pound a socket onto the 4 sided head of the long adjustment bolt

this would leave you with a perminate 4 sided receptacle to use a socket ratchet on in the future

 

Ok I got the clutch and pulley off this weekend, and it appears that the bearing is actually fine, but the front plate bearing carrier shaft has been worn down! The small lip around the forward edge of the shaft that holds the retainer clip has broken off about half of it as well. Looks like this means I need a new front nose housing. That means I need to have the system discharged and compressor removed. YUCK!

Anybody have any slick ideas to just build up the wobble-worn shaft instead for a temporary fix? Perhaps use some Super Mend epoxy?

Also looks like the belt and tension pulley will need replaced. Luckily everything is in excellent condition otherwise like the pulley adjustment block.

 

i’d still get the system discharged and slap a new drier in there before you get a clogged expansion valve

 

Maybe swing by a A / C specialty repair shop and see if they have any recommendations now that you have it defined

Some adhesive that has high resistance to crushing forces vs. adhesion to the surface

You might get away with a $ 10 repair

https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s...d_NPA-124.html

You made mention that you didn't think it has an expansion valve

It is buried in the cabin forward of the condenser so it is trapped against the engine firewall on the cabin side

Motorcarman ( Bob) had a recommendation to blow out the valve tubing from the engine side , this is if you have any of the dryer beads come loose and migrated there . It's a case of while you are there more critical if you lived in Texas

 

I guess it is back to leaving it off for now until I can afford the more complete fix. I really don't need A/C yet for another couple of months. I detest half-baked temp resolutions anyway :-P

 

I saw the same problem on my son's old Hyundai last year, and thought it was rare. Maybe not. The coil/clutch/bearing/pulley assembly was shot (burned up, super loose, the car came to me without its belt already). I removed the above items and attempted to build up the snout for the new pulley assembly, which was futile! I wasted a lot of time trying to avoid emtying the system and spending more on a new compressor, but that's exactly what it took. It was really easy to replace the whole compressor as the pulley assembly is already installed, it is pressed tightly onto the snout.

At this age it may be prudent to replace the compressor rather than just the front plate. The new Denso unit from the Rock is less than $200. Get a new drier bottle too (as Xalty mentioned) and some new charging valves that screw onto the hoses.

Be aware that most photos of the XJ6 compressors actually show the XJ12 compressor, and vice versa. This is true on the Rock, ebay and the Denso website! Go by the part number, not the picture. The correct Denso compressor for the XJ6 X300 is the 471-1350.

The new Denso compressor and UAC drier bottle for my car arrive tomorrow, to be installed over the next few days. The valves and old noisy compressor leaked the gas out along with some oil. This job gets done now, it is warming up in the desert.

 

I am actually thinking of trying this out for now, since there are currently no leaks and the a/c works great other than the wobbling pulley assembly. The wobble isn't a lot just yet, maybe about 1 mm of wear toward end of carrier shaft. When it fails, I will be replacing the entire compressor anyway, with a RockAuto Denso unit.

I plan on cleaning the carrier shaft, interior of pulley bearing, then smearing some JB weld on inside of bearing, pressing it on, align it best I can, let it set. See how it goes.

 

I found that a thin film of vegetable oil works as a release agent for JB Weld

In your case you do not want the release agent on the worn bull nose ( carrier shaft )

 

I was thinking the same thing, but am wondering if I should care to be able to remove the pulley again from this compressor. I'm concerned that even the thin layer of release agent could be counterproductive to the solidity of the attempt. Might just cause it to wobble out again where a straight epoxy fill will ensure the best strength and solidity.

 

UPDATE: Got the pulley back on with JB Weld (original type), and been on for 4 days curing. Seems pretty robust so far, and will get the new idler and belt on in the next few days (still making its way from RockAuto.com). Will let you know how it goes once back together.

 

FINAL UPDATE: The JB Weld did its job superbly, sealing the pulley to the worn compressor shaft. Once cured, there was only the tiniest of play in the bearing itself, but no more wobble. I installed the new idler and belt (super easy), reinstalled the clutch (used a longer bolt of the same thread to crank it back on the splined shaft), and it works like new again, no vibration or wobble at all. I imagine it will remain so until the compressor or bearing dies, since there is no chance for the bearing inner race to slip around anymore on the compressor carrier shaft.