Hey guys. I need a good bit of help right now. I'm desperately trying to recharge the system before I leave on a little trip Tuesday, and could use some advice on what I need to buy for the car. I've been told that we have a gauge and hose in our garage (somewhere), but I'm not sure what size/type of refrigerant I need to buy. I'm most certain it would be R134.

I'm not too worried on how to reload the system because I've seen other threads in the archives, but I'm stumped when it comes to what to use.

 

No label on the radiator -supprt or fan shroud? Should be one giving the Refrig and oil specs and amounts.

Otherwise, MOST all manufacturers had switched to R134a by 1995. I'm on phone so can't see your signature so not sure what u have but thinking either stype or x300 or both.

 

Steven

Your car uses R134, the general rule for a/c is that you need to charge the system be weight, or you top the system off, then the high side will need to read approx 2 to 2.5 times ambient temp (so if the temp is 100 degrees f, the high side should read between 200-250psi).

Those gauges that come built into cans are not really much use so if you don't have a proper set of manifold gauges, then I suggest that take it to a mechanic (any lube place will do). They usually offer a service called an "A/C service". This is usually consists of an evacuation of the system that will recover the old refrigerant and pull out any excess moisture and then charge. As they will empty the system, they can charge to the correct volume by weight.

This service normally costs between $30-50 + freon.

Good luck.

 

Thanks, that's really quite helpful. I'll buy a can of refrigerant later, and hopefully get it in before I leave on my trip tomorrow (Tuesday). If not, maybe a quick stop at a lube place if I'm having any troubles.

 

I have done this on many cars can't think why a Jag should be any harder than any other car. If the air was working last year you are more than likely loosing gas out the seals they tend to get hard after time. If I was you I'd buy one can of 134A which has a die added so you can see any leaks. If the low side is cold (realy cold) then you have enough in the system if it makes frost not quite enough if it get hot to much. Gauges (good ones) are great but to be honest not realy needed to top off the system... Good luck..

Note I use one can in all my cars each year as they are all 14 plus years old..

 

this may help as well: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-55219/

 

If possible, avoid the cans that include "sealer". That stuff is not really good for your compressor and adding too much of it could eventually trash your system and the equipment that is used by technicians who work on your car.

If your system is low to the point where it's not effective, then adding one can should not cause any damage.

 

Well, here's where I stand, when the system is not running, and when it is, it reads a very high pressure of about 130 psi. While it is quite hot outside (85-90 F), I've got a feeling that isn't enough to make it read such a high pressure. Since the little POS gauge that came with the refrigerant advises me that there may be mechanical problems, I've decided to not charge the system, and wait for some better advice on what to do. Looks like it's going to be a warm drive for the most part.

Here's a thought. Could the pressure be so high because the compressor isn't turning on? I recall reading somewhere that the compressor won't run if it hasn't got enough refrigerant. Should I proceed with the system charge anyway? I'm kinda just thinking out loud here.

 

Sounds like static pressure and compressor not operatilng.
This is from guage on can hooked up to low side port?
130 psi on AND off?
Check for clutch engagement

Don't know the precise specs for the X300 system, but normally a static or at-rest pressure of ~45 psi is sufficient to allow the compressor to engage. That'd be indicative of an undercharged system, but enough to close the low-press. switch.

I'm not persuaded 130 is all that high. Don't have an R134a table handy, but with 90F (and possibly more seen by the refrig. on acct. car has been running and will be warmer underhood)...you "may" normally be in that range. Regardless, that is not cause for your compressor to not engage, and if it is 130 on and 130 off...then all's not well compressor-wise..either it is not coming on or not pumping even though it may be spinning. Better to find that guage set mentioned earlier and se high and low side at the same time....but I know...one works with what one has.....good luck and keep us posted with what you find.

 

I suspect that you're reading the low side. The compressor will pull that pressure down when it engages. Are you trying to charge with the engine turned off?

You need the compressor to run so that you can suck in the refrigerant.

You can buy a proper set of gauges from HarborFreight for about $40 which will tell you much more.

 

The 130 psi was car on and off (yes, the low side). I fret the compressor isn't engaging at all when the car is at a standstill because the A/C only seems to blow cold when the car is moving and has been for a few seconds.

I'd check for clutch engagement, but that all sounds like French to me, and I don't speak any of that.

 

Open the hood ... look at the compressor ... the front "snout" of the compressor (just in front of the belt pulley) is the clutch. Start the car and turn off the a/c (and all other climate controls) ... go look at the clutch ... it should be at a standstill (not spinning).

Now go turn on the a/c, full-blast, with the blowers on high ... now go look at the clutch again. You should see it cycle "on" (engaged, spinning with the compressor) and "off" (disengaged, not spinning).

If it doesn't engage (at idle RPMs), have someone rev the engine to about 1500 RPMs and hold it - it should engage .... if you're on your own, you could also reach across the engine (compressor side of car) and rev the engine by twisting slightly on the throttle cam (use a rag, it'll probably be hot from engine heat).