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Been a while since I had the TC sensor off but it sould have a mechanical link to the cable bell crank
The connector on the aft position of your instrument cluster may have come loose but intuitively a lack of connection would not power a fault light on a display section of the circuit
Review the pin breakout sheet for the instrument cluster
You can also have a socket unlock and migrate away from making good contact
Pin is FC10 - 45
Active = ground Inactive = B+ and that can be interpreted as ........
is the light active or the system inactive , not always written by the engineer so error presents itself as the tech writer
But then in the heat of chemical engineering studies I had to stop and get a stop ight color squared up in my brain before proceeding
I never had a good access to the rear connectors , not referring to the brain
Like I said after screwing with the actuator the airbag light is gone. Why...who knows. I just have no clue about the adjustment of the traction control sensor. I now know if you screw with it it somehow affects your idle
Your Engine and Transmission ECU , ABS / TC module, Instrument cluster , steering column / mirror module and possibly the airbag module have the same data bus wire that ties to each of them
Data bus wires come as pairs so there are actually 2
The airbag was a last minute add on that may have not been fully integrated into the wiring guide , point 465 circle single hash is an example on section 19.1 that is missing
Your tinkered with your steering column and the steering column / mirror module may be corrupting this data bus
If you pull the fuses for the steering column and mirrors you may get stable results and then dig for the connector on the module
Makes a lot of sense and after golf today I will give it a shot. You know one thing I love about the X300 is it is a clean car. Not a lot of BS under the hood and is easy to work on but the last 6 months I am beginning to wonder if it really is easy. How many cars out there have 4 fuse boxes. Man a lot of possible electrical grimlins. If you look at the majority of the post.... Electrical!
Everything looks fine. Can someone do me a favor and pull the black cover off the actuator, which is easy. I was hoping you could look at the pin on the actuator and the position sensor and either take a picture or tell me the spacing between the two. I think I am close, but I believe this one piece is missing. I could not find any documentation on the web on adjusting that.
OK I figured out the adjustment. Needs to be .25mm from the pin. However, does anyone have this adjustment on their x300. I have looked at multiple 300's and have not seen this.
Other then the broken output plastic piece out of the actuator I have not seen this and maybe it was considered not needed in further production models
I just double checked for the adjustment and mine does not have one with production # 755681
The cover is off and can see a finger in the actuator works but my dimension would not be valid as it is not fine tuned after I had it all apart and my kidney's left me
They"re in kidney heaven now looking down on me after keeping me pure
Probably had to take the same # of turns on each turn barrel to shuttle the middle section one direction or the other
By not turning them equally ........I don't think it would bind the cable run up from the pedal to the TB , but the mechanical and not electrical null position would be off
This would throw off the position of the final cable end near the TB effecting your idle position if it could reach the idle position , you may not notice a difference out of idle
If you can tell by the tarnish on the threads you may be able to get back close to what you had
Well after months of driving and no errors I thought I had it. We took it on a long trip and after 100 miles or so it came back on - Throttle flap- potentiometer, electrical or mechanical. Crap. Maybe it is time to take it to Jag and have them figure it out
Was there any tinkering you did with the slam bang operation of the cruise control pump by placing a resistor into it ?
The intent was to slow down the throttle advancement on the identified wire without slowing down the throttle retarding when the cruise control speed was satisfied or kicked off by the brake pedal switch
But I think your issue was in the idle region when the cruise control is not selected on
no, I have not done anything. I replaced the controller. Adjusted the Actuator, and for the most part, everything seems to be running well. Every once in a while if I let off the gas the throttle will not come down quickly. I may have to hit it a little bit to "unstick" it. but that is not too often. Followed all the procedures to fix this and no Bueno. This error does not come up in this forum that often. Maybe it is time to find a real Jag tech. Not too many in New Mexico,
Throttle return spring TSB # R - 493 addressed or maybe an external return spring that some have installed as an addition
The throttle cable fixed mounting point / bracket before the butterfly bell crank in the M position instead of the needed A position
The M and A relates to the transmission installed and may be hard to read over the years on the bracket
I say the above without reviewing your issue history and a service person that is willing to tackle this model year will be hard to find but maybe in the LA market area
I have been waiting for the same year to show up at pick and pull to get the actuator, throttle body, and cables and rebuild mine. We usually get a few of these every once in a while, but I have not seen any for a bit. On my trip, the car ran like a champ. I got about 25mpg, so I think that I have done something right except for the stupid light.
01-22-2022 | 05:22 PM
