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My 1996 X300 vin778909 delivered in Australia ( rest of the world series) has decided to cease all central locking. It was working quite OK from both the remote wireless key and the driver's side door lock as well as the internal all doors locked switch. I checked the fuses and they are intact. I do have a paper printed out copy of the vehicle service manual which includes the security system.
I have also dug around in this forum for any hints and ideas. I am suspecting a faulty SLCM (security locking control module ) or the microswitch associated with the door lock.
Before wading in has anyone encountered similar problems? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated
You have to be careful of the specific wiring guide page you use and do you have a left and right door key barrel ?
there is a difference on the SLLSM connector wires
There was an example of the SLCM 4 connectors getting wet
Have you done a " hard Reset " yet that to me solves a lot of SLCM issues since it is powered directly by the battery bypassing the trunk fuses relay or what I call a king relay
I had the same problem years ago, and Parker, who was another name at the time and assumed he was a women, Lady Penelope..... helped me diagnose it, but I can't remember what I did to fix it. I am sure if you go through the postings, you will find it.
No I ditched that crazy Alpine stereo a year ago. It would decide to do things all of its own accord. Change stations, refuse to answer the volume control or just turn itself on or off. Also the AM station spacing system did not match the Australian AM system
I replaced it with a Pioneer radio bought at a car wreckers (junkyard) for $25! Brilliant radio, no code required and matches the AM system. In country travel in a fair bit of Australia you will only get AM stations.
I have read CDMA's posts and your previous inputs and will go ahead with the Hard Reset.
Cheers
Have had the hard reset on for over 4 hours.
Just reconnected the battery 15 minutes ago and started the car normally. It ran OK with all warning lights out etc.
However none of the locking and security systems came alive.
I did have another 1994 X300 which was functioning normally and I am familiar with all of the warnings and beeps etc. associated with the system as described in the video. I owned it for 5 years.
Any further ideas will be appreciated.
Have you read the security threads by Spud Maat in Sydney?
Can you test the associated relays , there are not many swapping options
Have you identified the correct wiring guide page ?
SLCM connector dry and clean , reseated the 4 connectors with the battery disconnected so no errors involved when the pins come together with the sockets ?
Correct SLCM part # installed ?
Identified if the correct rear window antenna is installed , 315 vs. 433 hz
Correct freq on the FOB battery cover ?
Not cheap fob batteries and stacked correctly ?
There is a stack of TSBs in this link starting at # 18 :
Thanks for your assistance
Just to put it in perspective I have owned this car for a bit over a year.
The central locking system and associated alarms were working OK from both the key fob and drivers door lock until about a month ago.
So a number of suggested possible causes in the previous can be ruled out. eg wrong SLCM and key fob frequency etc.
I will wade through all of the suggested posts however I have not yet come across "Spud Maat in Sydney".
I will attack the SLCM and check for possible corrosion and dirty connections as we have had some really severe rain in February eg 1 metre or 40 inches in 48 hours one weekend (but the X300 was undercover in a dry shed.)
Cheers
A common cause of your symptoms is door ajar sensors and/or the wiring/connectors for them. There's a sensor in each door and the boot. A failure can make the car think that a door is open and the central locking will therefore not work.
Ideally you need access to Jaguar IDS or another high end diagnostic system (Autologic etc). This can access the Security module and read live data to see the door status (from memory IDS can show Driver door, Passenger door and Rear Doors.)
There is a cheap diagnostic that may help. The Autel AP200 - I did a post about that some while back that you can search for. It can show status of Doors as far as the Body Processor Module is concerned but only splits it to Driver Door or Other Door. I don't know if it's the same signal as the security system but probably it is.
But if you can get to see this data at least it might point you in the right direction.
It may be worth giving each door a good slam shut (one at a time) - you never know? If that resolves the issue at least you will know which door to go and investigate further for dirty connectors etc.
Here's a picture of a corroded connector in my right rear door that caused exactly your symptoms.
Brendan and Parker
Thankyou for all of the information. In particular the 1996 electrical manual. I had been working off a 1994 vehicle service manual with 44 pages at the end of the manual.
I will get stuck into it this week after I have finished rider mowing, chain sawing and associated outdoor tasks as my 3 and a bit acres finally dries out after the big wet season.
cheers
not sure exactly what was caused by it. but it appeared to cause an issue with the central locking.
different to this one tho.
the central locking has always worked on the key. however i was unable to program a remote. even tho the remote and the window antenna and the slcu all seemed to match the correct mhz.
so i fixed it but wiring in an aftermarket keyless entry kit.
are you able to lock the car at all?
if you turn the key in the drivers door does the car lock? does the drivers door itself lock?
my understanding on the way these work is that when you turn the key it sends a signal to the SLCU to says "PLEASE LOCK THE DOORS"
to which the SLCU then sends back a signal to the doors "LOCK NOW" so i ask the question then if you turn the key and the drivers door locks then that would make me think there is a problem in the locking mechanism elsewhere in the car.
I know if my car thinks a door is ajar i am able to turn the key and lock the doors normally, but i am however unable to use the "deadlocking" function.
do you also have a key barrel in the passengers door (i think maybe this is an AU) market thing?
you could try tapping into the wires near the SLCU that control the lock and unlock and seeing if sending a pulse through those trigger the circuit at all.
If you use Autel for diagnostics, it does check the locking of the car and could give you an error code and may point to the problem. If will also tell you the history if there were any errors previously.
Spud Maat and all
Apologies for the slow reply. Not part of this thread but I was finally able to find a rust free boot lid for my MK2 and got involved in stripping, repainting etc. I also sold my 1994 X300 and this problem is in the 1996 X300.
Yes the drivers door lock does work. I am also able to lock the other doors physically. Note Australian delivered cars only have one external key door lock on the drivers side (RHD)
I have tried al over the place to find a diagnostic system for the X300 but have not had any luck. The industry people say those available can handle an X308 but not the X300.
I will initially go after the switch associated with the door lock.
Cheers
Spud Maat and all
Apologies for the slow reply. Not part of this thread but I was finally able to find a rust free boot lid for my MK2 and got involved in stripping, repainting etc. I also sold my 1994 X300 and this problem is in the 1996 X300.
Yes the drivers door lock does work. I am also able to lock the other doors physically. Note Australian delivered cars only have one external key door lock on the drivers side (RHD)
I have tried al over the place to find a diagnostic system for the X300 but have not had any luck. The industry people say those available can handle an X308 but not the X300.
I will initially go after the switch associated with the door lock.
Cheers
Can’t be entirely true,
my 95 X300 is Feb 95 build date, June 95 Australian compliance date, and sold originally be Grand Prix Jaguar in Brisbane
and it has external key door locks on both sides.
maybe its a spec level thing?
mine is a Sovereign.
Bill is correct, the 1996/1997 MY only has a key barrel on the drivers side, copy of relevant page from 1996/1997 MY update technical guide is attached. The wiring diagram 15.3 for the sedan range 1996, central locking -RHD shows only a drivers door key barrel.
Bill I presume this is the wiring diagram you have which should assist in diagnosing the problem.
As I see it the problem is either mechanical which relates to the actual drivers door key barrel switch or electrical which may require some wire tracing & testing in line with the wiring diagram.
I have attached a copy of my article X300 Key remote solution which indicates those wires from the door switch go direct to the security module, if you are in fact getting a circuit there, the problem would seem to be either within the module or on the output side of the module.
I have also attached further page 15.3 which you perhaps may not have and I'm sure would assist.
Bill is correct, the 1996/1997 MY only has a key barrel on the drivers side, copy of relevant page from 1996/1997 MY update technical guide is attached. The wiring diagram 15.3 for the sedan range 1996, central locking -RHD shows only a drivers door key barrel.
Bill I presume this is the wiring diagram you have which should assist in diagnosing the problem.
As I see it the problem is either mechanical which relates to the actual drivers door key barrel switch or electrical which may require some wire tracing & testing in line with the wiring diagram.
I have attached a copy of my article X300 Key remote solution which indicates those wires from the door switch go direct to the security module, if you are in fact getting a circuit there, the problem would seem to be either within the module or on the output side of the module.
I have also attached further page 15.3 which you perhaps may not have and I'm sure would assist.
John Herbert
(1196 XJR)
i understand exactly what you are saying and have read the same thing.
and have had the exact same thought.
i can only speak tho on the basis of the car i have.
which is an Aus delivered and sold 95 Sov.
i don’t know all its history.
it something that they changed in 96?
i have not seen a 95 wiring diagram. I am using the 96 (and then my own brain power) to work on my car.
maybe it has had a US door put on? I have no idea.
but it has key door locks on both front doors. And both work and are fully operational to activate the central locking.
and yes Bill it is John’s guide he linked above which i used to install my kit as i had no working remote.