I'm not sure the alarm would go off if unplugged statement

Mine is out of car

The Security Lock Control Module is powered by fuse # 4 in the trunk and this is the fuse you tie a string around to quickly silence the alarm when it goes off

This fuse # 4 is powered at all time directly wired to the battery bus heavy cable

And is powered by fuse Y and ............................

The sounder appears in the wiring guide section 15.4 / 2 wire connector for NAS models

Pin 13 these 2 pins are different on the Security Lock Control Module then ROW models

Pin 26

Section 15.5 / 4 wire connector for Rest of World models

Pin 7 = intelligent sounder output

2 power source wires :

# 10 right engine fuse box ( same as alternator voltage regulator) This fuse requires the ignition positive relay to be closed only if you posses the ignition key so is not used in a reverse sense as a back up SLCM power source

# 8 right engine fuse box ( hot at all times directly wired to main car battery bus heavy cable )

These 2 power source wires .........................

A car frame ground wire as the 4th

 

I meant if there is no sounder and someone tries to break in there will be no way the alarm will sound

 

Some where a couple of months ago I thought I found a SLCM output to the 2 main horns and the sound would suggest it

I can be out of configuration sometimes , just ask anybody

I an m in no way a expert in the field as this is my fists Jaguar

Continuing to edit above post

The 2 main horn splice into the SLCM point is in section 20.1 top left corner

This is pin CA21 - 24 on the SLCM on all Rest of World and North American Standard models

 

The same problem has returned. After I unplugged the sounder the gauge worked for a while but now a low reading on the dash alternator gauge has returned. I have cleaned both the papa indy 1 and 61 connectors and my alternator is working. What color wire is it that activates the instrument gauge at the # 10 fuse, white/blue? What do w/u and s/w colors represent on the above electric chart? Is the white/blue wire in the papa indy 61 plug the known area of failure and should I just jump the blue/white wires on either side of the papa indy 61 connector to bypass the connector? Hate to cut into a wire if unnecessary. What voltage should the blue/white wire have at the fuse #10 location? Any suggestions are welcome. I'm color blind but the wife will help me ID the wire colors with some bribery.

 

The colors are hard to see as they are worn over time

I will double check the plug socket map on the above chart being only 2 wires and not 3

The instrument gauge is the Slate / White wire

As long as you know the battery is charged back to a full state ( 12.75 volts ) you know you do not have a true alternator problem but a indication problem

This ends looking at the White / Blue color wire and the fuse

The White / Blue wire will have the battery voltage on it with the key in the run position and engine not running

Editing

While you are there is the large B + terminal nut on the alternator tight , 13 mm socket on a 3/8 drive ratchet fits behind there , this only relates to the true alternator output charging the battery

The coolant hose will push out of the way to get to the 2 small wire round connector

Double checking my car now





Actual X300 alternator and how it is slanted on installation with the B+ post at the 12 O'clock position . I put a bread twisty on the top most small wire to keep track of it on round connector removal . I did have the MAF sensor removed for better access

So the above 2 pics ae not quite right and still editing

 

Problem Finally Solved:
After much help with this forum the problem I had with a low volt meter reading was tracked down last weekend on my 1995 X-300. The firewall (bulkhead) electrical post that has the main current from the alternator to the battery located on the right side firewall had a defective insulator and was shorting out as it passed thru the firewall. Visually it wasn't obvious but in low light you could see arcing and the nut was slightly fusing to the firewall. Removed both nuts and cable eyehook from the stud and snipped a 1/4' of rubber fuel line and placed it over the stud to isolate cushion it and protect it from grounding out. Re installed the bottom nut, the cable eyehook and the top nut and problem solved. No more parasitic drain and low volt meter gauge reading..