Closed loop lambda control
#61
https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/down...ocom-evolution
This is for the sister Lucas GEMS 8 , see section on fueling for close loop and 2 or 4 sensor configuations
This is for the sister Lucas GEMS 8 , see section on fueling for close loop and 2 or 4 sensor configuations
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-28-2017 at 01:21 AM.
#62
#63
I read that thread at some point when I decided to get rid off front cats. There is no decisive answer if removing the cats affects the fueling.
#64
#65
I Think vacuum leaks are no issue here. At least not yet. The problem is that car never goes into closed loop. After it goes to closed loop and if we then have lean situation then I would start looking vacuum leaks.
#66
I concur with that statement. The oxygen sensors need to be "at temperature" for them to check their box to allow the ECU to go open loop.
Coolant Temp has to reach a certain temp to check their box.
Air Sensor has to take readings within range to check their box.
Finally the Throttle Potentiometer has to be within range to check their box.
I wonder if the oxygen sensors are not reading that they are in temperature range. I know they are taking readings, but are they able to convince the ECU that they have met the temperature requirement? I wonder if there is a faulty relay or fuse that drives the sensor heaters?
Check the Blue Wire with Pink Stripe fed by ECU pin position 189-4. That's the heater circuit for your downstream sensors. They should read 12V with the key in the on position and swing between 0v and 6v with the engine running. I'd take a reading at the oxygen sensors, first with the key in the on position, then with the engine running.
Coolant Temp has to reach a certain temp to check their box.
Air Sensor has to take readings within range to check their box.
Finally the Throttle Potentiometer has to be within range to check their box.
I wonder if the oxygen sensors are not reading that they are in temperature range. I know they are taking readings, but are they able to convince the ECU that they have met the temperature requirement? I wonder if there is a faulty relay or fuse that drives the sensor heaters?
Check the Blue Wire with Pink Stripe fed by ECU pin position 189-4. That's the heater circuit for your downstream sensors. They should read 12V with the key in the on position and swing between 0v and 6v with the engine running. I'd take a reading at the oxygen sensors, first with the key in the on position, then with the engine running.
Last edited by Vee; 08-28-2017 at 04:09 PM.
#68
#69
#70
You can swap the king relays in the left and right engine fuse boxes for they may show voltage but have a pitted contact not allowing enough current . Clean the ECU case ground as well as the grounds on the upper left and right on the rear engine firewall . The O2 sensor is very sensitive intelligence carrying signal so it's shielding ground is important . The large ground right by the starter gives the engine problems although it looks OK it's whats under the hardware . All the power to the heaters go through the Papa Indy 61 connector so don't neglect looking at it . I cut mine out and threw it away replacing with splices it looked so bad and not wanting to see it give future problems . This is someone else pics of the Papa Indy 1 connector next to the 61 as the black one . I put a red arrow on the White/Green stripe wire that is your heater . You can jumper wire around the connector for that wire . The one below that is your smog pump . # 4 is your all 6 coils power source wire through the coils to the timed 6 grounds in the ECU .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-29-2017 at 11:30 AM.
#72
Hi. Thanks for good suggestions. I'll check all those.
Is it possible to reset Fuel Trim and AFM adaptations with IDS ? I found the TPS and Oxygen sensor calibrations from there, but I couldn't find reset for those adaptations.
I'm still waiting for my Mongoose adapter so I'm learning the IDS software.
Is it possible to reset Fuel Trim and AFM adaptations with IDS ? I found the TPS and Oxygen sensor calibrations from there, but I couldn't find reset for those adaptations.
I'm still waiting for my Mongoose adapter so I'm learning the IDS software.
You can swap the king relays in the left and right engine fuse boxes for they may show voltage but have a pitted contact not allowing enough current . Clean the ECU case ground as well as the grounds on the upper left and right on the rear engine firewall . The O2 sensor is very sensitive intelligence carrying signal so it's shielding ground is important . The large ground right by the starter gives the engine problems although it looks OK it's whats under the hardware . All the power to the heaters go through the Papa Indy 61 connector so don't neglect looking at it . I cut mine out and threw it away replacing with splices it looked so bad and not wanting to see it give future problems . This is someone else pics of the Papa Indy 1 connector next to the 61 as the black one . I put a red arrow on the White/Green stripe wire that is your heater . You can jumper wire around the connector for that wire . The one below that is your smog pump . # 4 is your all 6 coils power source wire through the coils to the timed 6 grounds in the ECU .
#73
#74
I don't know if all these are related or not, but today I noticed when I walked by the car in darkness, that instrument cluster was illuminated. Car had been standing doors locked for couple of hours. I removed the battery cable so it doesn't drain the battery.
Week ago battery was totally flat in the morning so might have been same thing.
Also I've been drying the passenger side floor as there was inch of water probably coming from air conditioner so I have to clean those drain tubes also.
Week ago battery was totally flat in the morning so might have been same thing.
Also I've been drying the passenger side floor as there was inch of water probably coming from air conditioner so I have to clean those drain tubes also.
#75
I am assuming your car is LHD, so passenger side is the side where the ECU is located. Water in the footwell could perhaps be from the aircon, but could be windscreen or sunroof leak, which would entail the water going past/ over the ECU. It would be worth checking to ensure that it is thoroughly dry and connections clean before any further electrical troubleshooting is attempted....
#76
#77
Water on floor was coming from air conditioner so no water damage to ECU.
I got my Mongoose cable and SDD v131 with IDS.
However I can't read codes from car. IDS always gives the error code 0x22 to all groups. Should MongoosePro cable work with MY95 X300 ?
I got my Mongoose cable and SDD v131 with IDS.
However I can't read codes from car. IDS always gives the error code 0x22 to all groups. Should MongoosePro cable work with MY95 X300 ?
Last edited by janimaki; 09-07-2017 at 05:08 PM.
#78
I had issues with my clone connecting. It would do it every once in awhile and then even then it wouldn't necessarily pick up tranny codes....it was a real pain to get to work.
I don't know if it's in my head, but when I hit the read codes button, I would have the key in the off position, and then about a second after giving the command, I would them turn the car on. It seemed to increase my chances of making a connection.
I had to go through a number of IDS versions before I got one that worked. I forget which one, but I went through 134, 131 and 130. I want to say it was the 131 that worked
#79
#80
Problem is still on
I just stored the car for winter. I have tested the lambda heater circuit with DMM and they seem to be OK.
I'm also suspecting coils as they are cracked.
I have been trying to get IDS to communicate with car, but it seems to be not working. I'm using cloned Mongoose adapter.
I'm also suspecting coils as they are cracked.
I have been trying to get IDS to communicate with car, but it seems to be not working. I'm using cloned Mongoose adapter.