1995 Jag XJ6

new to jag new to forum
just bought this thing was too cheap to not and been sitting for year at the least ive been using my battery from my daily driver to fiddle with it so here is what it does

i put key in turn to on position before cranking the gauges all do their test thing... all but the cel (check engine light) it never comes on at all doesnt do the test cycle thing it does like all lights on every car

in this time there is beeping from the climate control thing above the stock radio and the screen reads "er" error i assume

now for the cranking i turn it over and just cranks there are times it seems like its trying to start but hasnt and ive been fooling with it before i go to work for 3 days
ive noticed for some reason it tries harder or gets closer to starting if i wait till the beeping error stuff stops and after the gauge cluster does its check cycle but could be nothing just thought it was worth noting

ive changed plugs in effort to resolve this
ive checked that i have spark
fuel relay works and i hear the pump working
i saw several posts saying if the tach jumps around the 200 mark while cranking then your cps (crank sensor) is fine also believe having spark tells me this aswell

going to test compression tomorrow and check i have fuel pressure
dont really know what else to try cause after tomorrow i will have tested spark compression fuel and from that car should start

 

Welcome to the forum nickxj6,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to X300 forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

give me any advice here you have plz need to have more things to check and try later today

 

You mention that your borrowing the battery from your daily driver.... is that a battery from another X300 and the right type? These cars are very finicky about the correct battery type and having a good charge.

If it isn't the right type of battery or not healthy, all sorts of weird electrical gremlins can pop up.

.

 

k so today i did compression test and its got 190-195 psi across all 6
seems high to me but im used to my little import 4 cylinders i guess
not sure what spec is for these but id say it passed
this was dry compression btw

i check the fuel at the rail for pressure and seemed non existent i threaded it back to just the last turn of the threads before any fuel seemed to be present at all only slight dribble out of the thing when i took it all the way off
so thats an issue ...
i did this test right after compression testing all 6 with fuel fuse out so im sure the some the fuel in the rail got shot out and pressure dropped so i put fuse back in and cranked it over 3 good times before checking it at the rail should have built up the needed pressure i was expecting right?

got the closest yet to starting today with some starting fluid but still was only sputter and died as i suspect it would with no fuel pressure to sustain itself after the starting fluid did its job

put code reader on and got codes someone help me with some plain english translation

p0411
secondary air injector incorrect flow
p0430 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2
p0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1

im assuming the last 2 are sensing alot of fuel in the exhaust which is weird given the fact fuel pressure is low i cant imagine the injectors being able to function on the pressure i saw from the rail
and the first one could be vacuum line from what i gather in google search says symptom would be "engine hesitation" could it cause me to not start though?

this is far as i got before starting to drain my battery

 

its very good battery not sure what type jag requires but i used this battery when i went to buy the care and we cranked it (strongly cranked too) repeatedly for more than 2 hours without it ever showing signed of weakening so dont think a brand new specific to this model jag battery would make any difference. i do appreciate your taking the time to reply though

 

Don't worry about battery type. Mine had a little battery, typical of compacts and it work fine.
Fuel pumps fail after sitting for months, that would be my choice for the problem.

 

i agree so much atm im about to buy one as we speak but heres my problem with that.. i hear it working! the times ive had pump failure it just stopped all together working ive not had a situation where it gets weak like an alternator might before complete failure. anyone had fuel pumps weaken?

 

Hi nickxj6,

It sounds as though you have a problem with the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or the fuel pump electrical circuit. There's a mountain of information on this forum about diagnosing fuel pump issues - use the Search function at the top of this page. The fuel pump is in the fuel tank, so before you decide to replace the pump, be sure it's not the relay or a burned electrical connection.

Regarding the battery, as Al has already mentioned, Jaguars require a very strong, healthy battery. If the voltage drops much below 11V while cranking, the Engine Control Module (ECM) will not trigger the ignition to fire.

For lots of possibilities, see this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ngines-120221/


Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

It's been known for the pipe on the fuel pump to 'pop' off on the x300's I've worked on...definitely worth checking

 

I agree with Robxjr6 that the pipe coming off should be a prime suspect.

Also, possible fuel filter blockage especially if sitting for a long time and unknown history.

Fuel pressure should build from key on - no need to crank. You say you can hear the pump running so that's good. Disconnect the fuel pipe at the pressure regulator and pop it in a jar. Then Key on. You should see strong stream of fuel.

If not, I'd do the same test on the tank side of the filter next. If still no fuel then time for the pump to come out for checking.


I suspect the missing CEL is a blown bulb. If the ECU does not think the CEL is on then the car should not crank.

 

i had seen this when i searched the forum before becoming a member and kinda believe cause i disconnected the fuel hose at the rail few times now and it keeps getting fresh fuel in there that this couldnt be the case

i rented a fuel pressure tester but ummm there is no pressure relief valve on the rail sooo thats something ive not seen before not sure how to test this thing
i also have gotten spark before i did only pull one plug though so bought a new inline tester for that im gonna do tomorrow too
im guessing for the fuel pressure test im going to have to hooking to the regulator with ghetto hoses and clamps.
anyone know whats up with this po411 code though whats an air injector? that could be a thing to look at i suspect

 

I had theP0411 code a few months ago. The secondary air pump cable wasn't plugged in tight. Has no impact on starting.

You say you can hear the fuel pump running. But it should only run for a few seconds while building pressure when you turn the key. If it keeps running it's not getting up to pressure.

 

GREAT! thank you for that info. now i just gotta find it and check that its clean and stuff

yeah thats what i mean i hear it working when key is in the on position the few times i checked it now. however you make a good point i havent left it in that position to listen for it an extended amount of time it could be running continuously cause there isnt much pressure at the rail thats why i rented the tester im gonna try it tomorrow to get exactly what psi its at.

most helpful with that air injector code info though thanks

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ237
But it should only run for a few seconds while building pressure when you turn the key. If it keeps running it's not getting up to pressure.

I don't normally disagree with the very knowledgeable RJ237, but I don't think that's right.

Yes it should only run for a second or two but it's a timed thing. I don't believe there is any monitoring of pressure going on. In fact I don't think there is a fuel pressure sensor built in to the engine management system.

 

Yes, of course it's timed. I have a severe cold and it appears to have affected my memory.

 

I had the hose blown off problem on my X-300 too. Inside the tank is a rubber hose cinched with a standard screw clamp. After time, apparently the rubber loosens and allows the hose to blow off. I just tightened mine good and it was good for the next 50,000 miles I drove the car.

 

i figured it was since most cars are but im learning quickly that my usual knowledge of cars doesnt apply because this... is jag

yeah i suspect fuel pump ive made note of this and going to check for it when im in there. decided to mess with the car tomorrow its too cold today and just not feeling it right now. after learning of its incredible compression numbers and further narrowing down of this problem yesterday im feeling much better about buying this thing.

 

turns out cause there is no schrader on my fuel rail its impossible to test fuel pressure with what i rented from the parts store.. its a fuel pressure test kit comes with everything to test pressure on all cars except mine cause the engineers are too stupid to put a schrader on the rail to test pressure. i would have to rig something and use the T fitting and its not worth the trouble there is definitely not enough pressure there just wanted a reading before spending money on a pump.

so as i understand it there is a fuel pump fuse i found that 30a in the trunk and a relay right? there so many fuse panels in the thing ive not looked at them all yet i guess ill do that next and try swapping relays with the fuel pump one if and when i find that thing and when i rule that out ill buy a pump. i did change the fuel filter today with no change but it did have some funky fuel fall outta it.

 

so couple new things to report since it was warm for few days and stopped snowing so i dont have an excuse...
i went out and decided to pull every fuse and found that the rear seat controls fuses (under rear seat fuse blocks) on both sides were using a 30amp instead the 25 recommended on my panel guide thingy
same thing with the air pump (right hand engine bay block) fuse 30 instead 25
so my question is were these changed to actually need 30amp at sometime either from factory and they didnt update the fuse guide or a TSB quick fix to solve a problem with constantly blowing the fuses?
so much of this car is so obviously untouched i just dont believe they were swapped by someone considering they did both fuses on both sides seems pointless.
so before this car sat for nearly 2weeks and after checking fuses in all 5 blocks i just decided to attempt to start it see what it would do before swapping some relays around and the thing just starts... instantly on the first crank after 2 weeks sitting... for 3 sec then choked out. i didnt think it would start and was in such shock i didnt have foot on the pedal to attempt to keep it alive and i could not get it to start again after that.
what thoughts do you have on this? mine are that the fuel pressure is an issue i do believe this ive ordered a pump but there is some pressure enough to get fuel to the rail little though it is and in the week or two i didnt do anything with car fuel in the rail settled on the injectors and stars aligned car gods fired all the injectors off gave my heap life till the few drops fuel on the injectors ran out.
also for those wondering i did go buy a battery for it didnt change anything
but it was battery-less anyway had to get one at some point