Cranksaft front seal
#1
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My car has been in sleep mode over the passed few months untill the snow and ice are gone. The other day I went over to the storage area where I have it and started it up and let it run for half an hour. When I stopped it a noticed clean oil at the front of the engine on the floor below the flywheel. The oil was clean so I'm assuming it's engine oil. Therefore if I have to change the front crankshaft seal what type of pulley will I require to get it off once I remove the bolt? Also do I require anything else other than a new seal to complete this job? And where would be a good place to buy what I need up here in Canada.. I live very close to Buffalo NY so can travel into the USA if needed for the parts..
Thanks
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#2
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On my 90 and 93 i used a standard puller ( the one you put bolts through) you will also have to use an extension put into the crankshaft so that you have enough range(make sure that it is not going to damage the threads in the crank) and bolts the right size for the threaded holes in the pully. the seal comes with an instalation sleeve that must be used. Also when removing the old seal be careful to not use too much force as the front covers a prone to cracking if you use too much force. Before you start make sure that it is your seal and not some other seal (distributor,cam chain adjuster cam cover etc)
#3
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As said above.
The seal is a Genuine only and NOT cheap. Mine leaked all of a sudden also, and I tried all sorts to find an aftermarket, but NO GO, so forked out $60 for the real deal.
My pulley just slid off, SURPRISED, you bet. I used a SHARPENED old screwdriver blade, and pierced the outer edge of the old seal, via the slot in the cover designed for that purpose, and pried it out CAREFULLY. It was NOT super tight anyway.
The seal runner ring MUST be removed prior to fitting the new seal, or damge will occur, and check that seal runner very carefully for roughness, if so replace that runner.
Replacing the seal is also CAREFUL, as there is NO lip inside the opening to stop it going straight through inside the timing cover, then you will be laughing, NOT, so just tap it in until flush with the outer face. Then slide the running sleeve (lubed slightly) onto the crank snout, fit the key, slide the pulley on, tighten that big nut REAL TIGHT, done.
Apparently they are not a common failure item, so make sure first, coz as I said the seals are not cheap.
The seal is a Genuine only and NOT cheap. Mine leaked all of a sudden also, and I tried all sorts to find an aftermarket, but NO GO, so forked out $60 for the real deal.
My pulley just slid off, SURPRISED, you bet. I used a SHARPENED old screwdriver blade, and pierced the outer edge of the old seal, via the slot in the cover designed for that purpose, and pried it out CAREFULLY. It was NOT super tight anyway.
The seal runner ring MUST be removed prior to fitting the new seal, or damge will occur, and check that seal runner very carefully for roughness, if so replace that runner.
Replacing the seal is also CAREFUL, as there is NO lip inside the opening to stop it going straight through inside the timing cover, then you will be laughing, NOT, so just tap it in until flush with the outer face. Then slide the running sleeve (lubed slightly) onto the crank snout, fit the key, slide the pulley on, tighten that big nut REAL TIGHT, done.
Apparently they are not a common failure item, so make sure first, coz as I said the seals are not cheap.
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