So since i have had the car the remote fob has not worked and i have locked only with the key.
now i have always deadlocked. turned to unlock then to lock and hear the beep.
however today that stopped working.
i am not sure where to start looking.
the central locking all works however when turning to unlock and then lock the car just locks normally. there is no deadlocking.

i had the car up and degreased under the engine, is it possible that degreaser got somewhere it shouldn't or i knocked a cable loose?
the thing is i just don't know where to begin to look.

*also there is no chirp or anything if i leave a door or boot open and lock the car, it just locks.
i did put the car into programming mode and it does chirp then so the sounder is not broken.
but i suspect maybe some cables around there maybe the issue??

 

deadlocking definitely not working anymore.
i put my window down, locked the car and i can open with the drivers door inner handle.
then i tried the deadlocking procedure and still could open it with the drivers door inner handle

 

ok, so just realised the drivers door sensor is not working. i think this might be the reason.
just realised now while playing around trying to work out what is going on that when opening the drivers door the door light and the interior lights are not coming on.
all other doors work as per normal just not the drivers door.
i assume this indicates the door sensor is buggered.
where would one find the door sensor?

i would have assumed that the sensor not recognising the door open would make the car think it is always closed and therefore would not pose an issue, but i imagine that maybe the car realises it is broken and therefore just won't co-operate.

 

To see if your door latch assembly lock switch is making You can test it from the SLCM connector

This with the battery positive cable removed to not induce other problems with SLCM connectors reinstallation being out of perfect sequence

The switch provides a car frame ground path so you would be looking at resistance with the other lead on car frame ground

This post will cover ROW ( rest of world ) cars and NAS ( North American Specification ) cars in 2 separate sections

ROW : You only have 1 switch on driver door side and 1 on front passenger door ( I'm not sure of this as the driver door only would make sense as it only has a key )

CA18 - 10 ( Yellow / Red wire ) left door left hand steering

or ( and ? )

CA18 - 4 ( also Yellow / Red wire ) right door right hand steering

NAS :

Driver Door\ this version has 2 switches on the driver door left hand steering or right hand steering version again so we have a total of 3 versions

For both LHS and RHS versions on the driver door 2 lock switches in the latch assembly

CA18 - 12 ( Orange / Yellow wire )

CA18 _ 6 ( Oreange / Blue wire )

These 2 switches operate opposite of each other . one open as the other is closed

The picture is of module view so the connector view would be mirror image

Up arrow is how the SLCM is mounted

 

I think it'll come down to the microswitch inside the door latch assembly. Lots of discussion on these troublesome switches over the years, such as:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-214556/

Cheers
DD

 

Spt Maat ,

Since your SLCM part # for Australia ( and the 315 vs, 433 Hz ) is suspect I would hold off on resolving the deadbolt issue until you have an answer on the SLCU

LNA2600 BB installed

LNA2600 BC for Australia

 

Lots of good info here, maybe its as simple as cleaning the switch.
we will see. I will have to take the door trim off at some point when i upgrade my speakers so i may just hold off looking into this until then


“ROW : You only have 1 switch on driver door side and 1 on front passenger door ( I'm not sure of this as the driver door only would make sense as it only has a key )”
Passengers door also has key

 

From my understanding once you have the assembly in hand it's a matter of freeing up the monkey works which will aid the switch

The freeing up of the monkey works may have to be eventually visited

On removal of the latch assembly the fwd cable to the indoor handle has a small locking clip that you would stuff a rag into the door so not to have it drop down through there

 

Ok, so update is that it would appear it is a microswitch fault.
i went out for a drive today, and when i stopped for the 3rd time along my drive the drivers door puddle light decided to come on when i opened the door and the car beeped to let me know i opened the door with the headlights still on, so i was like "cool, you gonna work now".
then when i locked the car i was able to deadlock it as per normal.
so my best guess is it is nothing more than a dirty/sticky microswitch.