Yesterday after driving around for a while I stopped for lunch and when I came back to the car it started fine but then the engine died after about 3 seconds. It did this 3 or 4 times. After 20 minutes back in the restaurant calling my insurance agent about towing I went back out to the car and it started right up. Today it has been running fine, I did check the fuel pressure regulator and found no fuel in the vacuum line. It almost acted like an old time vapor lock. The only code I have stored is P0420 which is catalyst efficiency below threshold (bank 1). I have had this code for quite a while and I should replace the downstream O2 sensors.

The vehicle is a 96 XJ6 the crank sensor was replaced last year, coils and plugs 2 years ago. The vehicle has 115000 miles, I hope this is not a sign of the fuel pump going bad. Fuel filter was replaced last year.

One of the young guys that works for me and is into drift cars thought that a plugged or partially plugged converter could cause this, any ideas?

 

Have someone in the trunk with their finger on the fuel pump relay

Feel for the 3 clicks

on - 4 seconds - off - on ( by the crankshaft position sensor seeing engine rotation , yep )

You can swap the relay with the Acc relay in the far inboard position

You can jumper socket 30 to 87 to save on towing

 

I checked the fuel pump relay in the trunk fuse box after arriving at work today and found that the relay was very hot to the touch, so I changed it out hoping it was just an old worn part but w
hen I arrived home from work the replaced relay was also very hot. From what I have read on this forum this is a sign of a fuel pump getting ready to fail as it is pulling too much amperage.

This was probably the reason for the engine to stall the other day. Looks like a replacement fuel pump is in my future. Thanks, Lady P. for the info.

 

Swap relays ? But it will last only so long in your suspected scenario at this point in troubleshooting

The heat could be from arching relay power contacts

To limp it along the 30 to 87 relay jumper with a high current blade connector may be a option

This will be " hot " at all times with key in pocket , so it will drain your battery

At the point of pump replacement::from the recommendation of Motercarman ( who has obviously more experience then me ) he suggested looking at the fuel pump motor connector for burned pins and sockets

This would eventually lower the current across the relay as the pump fails and how they relate to each other

This was the subject of 3800 flight delays and cancellations with the FAA and American Airline but I digress

Seen it alot in my career

:icon_couch:

T