differential leak
#1
differential leak
on my 1996 XJ6,
I was underneath the rear end greasing u-joints last night and there appears to be an excess of leaking gear oil coming from around where the driver's side half shaft enters the differential.
I'm assuming it's just a seal? while I'm in there I figured I might as well replace the bearing that's there too.
Anyone know any specific part #'s off hand? or anything else that would be convenient to change while I'm at it?
I know nothing under there is convenient, but you get my point.
thanks,
pancho
I was underneath the rear end greasing u-joints last night and there appears to be an excess of leaking gear oil coming from around where the driver's side half shaft enters the differential.
I'm assuming it's just a seal? while I'm in there I figured I might as well replace the bearing that's there too.
Anyone know any specific part #'s off hand? or anything else that would be convenient to change while I'm at it?
I know nothing under there is convenient, but you get my point.
thanks,
pancho
#2
I would say replace seal and inspect the bearing whilst the seal is out. If it looks well lubed, leave it alone. Only replace if it looks overheated or there is corrosion present. Replacing the seal is going to be fairly easy, but the bearing may need the diff to come off to get the old bearing out.
#6
I do believe the output shafts seals are the easiest of all repears to the diff. Pulling the bearings are alot harder and I wouldn't try that on my own. The main concern is if the pinion shaft is leaking. You will have to remove the diff and pinion to replace the seals. Also, a pinion needs to be installed the proper way inorder to insure the gears match up properly. If the jag diffs are like all other diffs, you have to shim the pinion and replace the crush washer and seal....... It's not just a unscrew and bolt back together job.
#7
To answer my own question, having just removed the old output shaft retainer and bearing, then replaced the seal. It is not possible to replace seal without taking off the output bearing. The O ring on the flange is replaceable easily.
Now off to the local mechanic's shop to press on new bearing and retainer.
By the way the rear seal leaked and some noise present in rear. A week ago changed diff fluid. Ran about 200 miles, the fluid was clean in the differential. The bearing had a very dark gray slurry around it. This X300 has about 120K miles.
Now off to the local mechanic's shop to press on new bearing and retainer.
By the way the rear seal leaked and some noise present in rear. A week ago changed diff fluid. Ran about 200 miles, the fluid was clean in the differential. The bearing had a very dark gray slurry around it. This X300 has about 120K miles.
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#8
I hate to drag up an old thread, but my right side half shaft stub is leaking. I use the car as a daily so before I pull the half shaft, I need to know what to get. I've got all the manuals available here but can't find a diagram. Can I just replace the seal or do I have to pop the retainer ring and replace bearing and seal on the stub? I'm a bit confused at what I will be looking at once I get under there.
Also, I need to top off the diff in the meantime and can't seem to find the fill plug. I found what might be the plug on the top right of the diff from the the back. It has a black plastic cover. I was afraid this was a breather so I haven't messed wit it yet. The way it's leaking the whine has got to be just around the corner.
Also, I need to top off the diff in the meantime and can't seem to find the fill plug. I found what might be the plug on the top right of the diff from the the back. It has a black plastic cover. I was afraid this was a breather so I haven't messed wit it yet. The way it's leaking the whine has got to be just around the corner.
#10
I've got the diff kit on my desk here. Part number DBK3 from David Manners. It comprises bearing, o-ring, oil seal and retainer ring. The exploded diagrams for your model can be found on Jaguar Classic Parts website. You also need to replace the 4 nuts for the output shaft to half shaft as they should only be used once. I replace the torx bolts for the retainer plate as they do corrode and if they get stuck it would be difficult to remove them.
#11
Thanks Straight6DOHC!
I've looked extensively on the link but don't see a differentiaal diagram or breakdown? Can you help an old fat guy out and point me in the right direction on the link? I've got a 96 XJ6 that I currently have the differential setting in my shop (out of the car)............Just want to make sure I put it all back together RIGHT...........
Thanks again!!!
I've looked extensively on the link but don't see a differentiaal diagram or breakdown? Can you help an old fat guy out and point me in the right direction on the link? I've got a 96 XJ6 that I currently have the differential setting in my shop (out of the car)............Just want to make sure I put it all back together RIGHT...........
Thanks again!!!
#12
Thanks Straight6DOHC!
I've looked extensively on the link but don't see a differentiaal diagram or breakdown? Can you help an old fat guy out and point me in the right direction on the link? I've got a 96 XJ6 that I currently have the differential setting in my shop (out of the car)............Just want to make sure I put it all back together RIGHT...........
Thanks again!!!
I've looked extensively on the link but don't see a differentiaal diagram or breakdown? Can you help an old fat guy out and point me in the right direction on the link? I've got a 96 XJ6 that I currently have the differential setting in my shop (out of the car)............Just want to make sure I put it all back together RIGHT...........
Thanks again!!!
Then click on XJ Series X300
Then click Transmission and Driveline
Then Differential Assembly
The Differential Assembly Components-Normal (or power-lok if you have an xjr or v12....LSD)
An you will now see an exploded diagram. The stuff you are interested in is number 9 and contained in a dotted line.
I've just strupped the hub and diff output shaft today in order to replace bearings etc. Took about 3 hours but I should have saved some time and unplugged the ABS sensor from under the seat instead of trying to remove it from the hub carrier. I suggest you do the same. Get the brake caliper off as well because you need to swing the hub carrier down and I don't think the brake hose is long enough to allow that - I could be wrong. I've completely removed the halfshaft but you shouldn't need to. That said, access to the 5 torx bolts may be hampered. Make sure you get right onto those torx bolts. One of mine was badly corroded but didn't really give me any trouble - their not torqued to tightly.
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