Digging into the TPS and cable '97 XJ6R
#1
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Jack T. Harper (04-24-2022)
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Had the same issue with my XJR/6. This was years ago, though, so foggy memory disclosure applies. I think JB Weld and a wire tire were part of the story. Others will chime in.
I don't see how the TPS adjustments would enter in. However, the throttle cables themselves are adjustable. You'll see the adjuster barrels if you follow the length of the cables. There's a 'factory procedure' for this which never made sense to me. I'm sure there's archived discussion about it.
Cheers
DD
I don't see how the TPS adjustments would enter in. However, the throttle cables themselves are adjustable. You'll see the adjuster barrels if you follow the length of the cables. There's a 'factory procedure' for this which never made sense to me. I'm sure there's archived discussion about it.
Cheers
DD
#3
fabricated from modern mustang bumper cover material
So if the throttle cable comes off the spring wheel inside the ABS gizmo and the above cable is on the opposite side of the wheel there is probably enough slack with the busted anchor to affect the throttle adjustment. Fabed up another clip and using superglue (works VERY fast and hard on plastic car body parts) and an old mustang bumper cover.
#4
haha I just replied to another thread and suggested this part was broken and causing the issue, and sure enough on this thread one is broken! Get a stiff metal rod and zip tie it together. I used a long peg from a pegboard or what you’d see stuff hanging from at a store …. No amount of glue is going to keep it in place. Leave the JB. Weld at AutoZone and steal the peg it’s hanging from…
#5
I once fabed up a nose for my C3 vette. It was an '81 front body clip and I hated the cowcatcher. So . . . the same Mustage front bumper cover, rubber bumper repair goo and Locktite superglue. Just like wood glue the material will fail before the glue. Not only before the glue but until the bond is destroyed with a hammer or a fire.
Nose chrome fabed from my '75 XJ6 rear bumper, eliminated "cowcatcher" and fake bumperette licence surround.
The trouble now is that the TRAC and ABS dash lights are on (no logged codes though). So does anyone have a way to clear the lights. I did pull the pin connector, dismounted the actuator, and loosened the top of the actuator where the pin connector connects (all to get the new clip in and the plastic housing cover off). I had the same issue with my '03 4runner and thanks to a YouTube video, using two pieces of wire connected to the proper female pin holes on the OBD port and a cryptic series of connects and disconects with the ign.off or on, cleared the indicator lights on it.
Nose chrome fabed from my '75 XJ6 rear bumper, eliminated "cowcatcher" and fake bumperette licence surround.
The trouble now is that the TRAC and ABS dash lights are on (no logged codes though). So does anyone have a way to clear the lights. I did pull the pin connector, dismounted the actuator, and loosened the top of the actuator where the pin connector connects (all to get the new clip in and the plastic housing cover off). I had the same issue with my '03 4runner and thanks to a YouTube video, using two pieces of wire connected to the proper female pin holes on the OBD port and a cryptic series of connects and disconects with the ign.off or on, cleared the indicator lights on it.
#6
Until you get the correct adjustment it is going to be a PITA for you. An ODB will clear it but it will come back. Look for a few of my posts here and it will show you how to adjust it. However, if you get it right I would like to know. I have made 100 adjustments on it and still have not gotten it right. You think you have it, drive the car for 37 miles and it will come on again.
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