Door locks
#1
Door locks
If you had absolutely nothing to the door locks where would you start? As in they don't work at all, with the exception of me manually pushing them up and down and the key works in the door to lock and unlock. No key fob. Currently bidding on one, probably not going to win it either. I have a dollar lead and well there is 2 days left.
Lets start there. I have numerous other electrical gremlins (I like to call it the previous owner) trunk release, gas cap, outside rear marker lights, ect.
I am by no means frustrated at all, I just don't like spending money on stuff that can be fixed maybe by a simple test.
Thanks in advance!
Lets start there. I have numerous other electrical gremlins (I like to call it the previous owner) trunk release, gas cap, outside rear marker lights, ect.
I am by no means frustrated at all, I just don't like spending money on stuff that can be fixed maybe by a simple test.
Thanks in advance!
#2
How does that Security/Locking module look? Connected up properly? (Its behind the panel in the trunk near the fuel filler pipe.) Perhaps a bad/disconnected door lock switch on the dash? A new fob probably won't help until the automatic mechanisms are working. If you have a 96 or 97, you will need the 433Mhz fob, not the 315Mhz.
Do you have any alarm operation? Do you have proper trunk latch operation? Do you have trunk lights? Are all the wires at the right trunk hinge intact? All are inter-related to the locks, the alarm, and the fob operation. Let us know what you find.
Do you have any alarm operation? Do you have proper trunk latch operation? Do you have trunk lights? Are all the wires at the right trunk hinge intact? All are inter-related to the locks, the alarm, and the fob operation. Let us know what you find.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I have checked into this so far. No the trunk release does not work, I have no alarm operation, my trunk latch does not work unless I use the key, no trunk lights. I checked the wires and replaced or fixed what I thought needed it. That explains why none of its working if its all connected to the same thing. I will check behind the dash where the lock button is in a short while.
I'll check the security module for bad connections as well.
At this point I am assuming the module is probably fried if all the connections are okay?
I'll check the security module for bad connections as well.
At this point I am assuming the module is probably fried if all the connections are okay?
#4
Checked the security module connections and everything seemed to be good and seated (also doesn't look like its been tampered with)
I checked the plug in at the door lock button, as I removed it, whats left of my LED in my clock went out. Not sure if that says much. The locking button does not light up when you push it. I have read that these can go bad or be intermittent. If that says anything.
I also even decided to check to see if I had a unplugged wire in the door just because the fact it doesn't do anything at the drivers door either. Everything seems to be in place.
Security system module? I mean I literally have nothing (no alarm, no trunk lights, no trunk release, no lock button, and ect) and as you stated prior. Is there more than a fuse(s) that runs this system?
Thanks again.
I checked the plug in at the door lock button, as I removed it, whats left of my LED in my clock went out. Not sure if that says much. The locking button does not light up when you push it. I have read that these can go bad or be intermittent. If that says anything.
I also even decided to check to see if I had a unplugged wire in the door just because the fact it doesn't do anything at the drivers door either. Everything seems to be in place.
Security system module? I mean I literally have nothing (no alarm, no trunk lights, no trunk release, no lock button, and ect) and as you stated prior. Is there more than a fuse(s) that runs this system?
Thanks again.
#5
The usual suspect: There is a small switch on the trunk latch (in the lid). If the switch or the wires are broken, you will have all those sorts of problems. Take the latch out, test the switch, and see what happens when you manually connect and disconnect the two wires on the switch.
The faded LCD on the clock is normal, some have chosen to retrofit other types of clocks or have the whole module repaired. Sounds like you've got better things to do right now!
The faded LCD on the clock is normal, some have chosen to retrofit other types of clocks or have the whole module repaired. Sounds like you've got better things to do right now!
#6
Will do! I have it out. I just haven't tested it.
I'll inform later tonight with what I got.
Yeah, the clock I wasn't really worried about yet. I just got a new seat module the other day so I can now actually sit in it (that's when I noticed the clock) I'm 6'4" tall and the previous owner was bit shorter than me or he was attempting to fix the seat himself (who knows) because it was all the way up. Bit tight.
I'll inform later tonight with what I got.
Yeah, the clock I wasn't really worried about yet. I just got a new seat module the other day so I can now actually sit in it (that's when I noticed the clock) I'm 6'4" tall and the previous owner was bit shorter than me or he was attempting to fix the seat himself (who knows) because it was all the way up. Bit tight.
#7
I pulled the micro switch out with the plug. Tested it with a multimeter. I get a 0.01 which I would say is pretty good. But testing it with a battery (not one in the car) I get nothing, no clicks. Is there something I'm missing. I noticed the plunger on it should I press that? While testing? Im assuming with the trunk closed its suppressed. I'll give that a go see what I get. Not sure.
Unplugging it from the car does nothing i still have the same symptoms. So I guess that means it has to be there to make everything else work?
Wires look good, the only thing is that maybe the wires at the trunk hinge are pretty soft so I could have a break inside possibly, maybe.
Thanks.
Unplugging it from the car does nothing i still have the same symptoms. So I guess that means it has to be there to make everything else work?
Wires look good, the only thing is that maybe the wires at the trunk hinge are pretty soft so I could have a break inside possibly, maybe.
Thanks.
Trending Topics
#8
Updating the thread. I have decided to replace all wires at the trunk hinge about 2" worth. I also have not ordered a new micro switch but it seems to be intermittent. So I will be in the process of finding one of those. I can jumper the plug and I get trunk lights. I can press the trunk boot button and it works on occasion. But after replacing the wires I have operational door locks and alarm along with the locking button on the dash.
Odd thing is I lost my gauge pack operation. I see this is not a common case either. I'm a bit curious because I defiantly think its a ground and if it is something back by the trunk I will let you know.
Odd thing is I lost my gauge pack operation. I see this is not a common case either. I'm a bit curious because I defiantly think its a ground and if it is something back by the trunk I will let you know.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
99xk8guy
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
11
06-05-2023 06:28 AM
FS[Western US]: XJS Lock Set with Keys- Doors, trunk, glove, gas, and ignition
XJsc-guy
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade or Buy Classifieds
6
11-23-2015 01:56 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)