An electrical fault.......... - FIXED
#1
An electrical fault.......... - FIXED
Hello everyone, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction with regards to my '95 XJR. The car has been off the road for some years but was garaged for all that time and was started and driven weekly. There is no evidence of water ingress to any of the electrical systems. I'm trying to get it back on the road now but..................
There is a problem, the following items only work when the left indicator switch is on and the bulb is lit, they stop when the bulb isn't lit, ie they are on off on off on off etc etc; windcreen washer pump, rear fog lights and illumination to the switch, parking interlock relay.
It's not the rear lighting module as I've put mine in another car and vice versa. I've checked, cleaned and tightened all the earth connections I can find, ditto fuses and relays. There is evidence of a towbar being fitted at some point in it's life but no evidence of a dodgy wiring job or any wiring for a towbar for that matter. It has the standard alarm/immobiliser which works and doesn't look like it's ever had anything different fitted.
Where should I be looking now please?
One other thing, the steering wheel reach has just stopped doing it's thing, the motor is working but the wheel is as far away from the driver as it can be now, the rake does work. This stopped working before I spotted the indicator issue so I don't know whether this may have caused the main problem or is totally un-related, could it have trapped/cut some wires?
Please help, any pointers very much appreciated
There is a problem, the following items only work when the left indicator switch is on and the bulb is lit, they stop when the bulb isn't lit, ie they are on off on off on off etc etc; windcreen washer pump, rear fog lights and illumination to the switch, parking interlock relay.
It's not the rear lighting module as I've put mine in another car and vice versa. I've checked, cleaned and tightened all the earth connections I can find, ditto fuses and relays. There is evidence of a towbar being fitted at some point in it's life but no evidence of a dodgy wiring job or any wiring for a towbar for that matter. It has the standard alarm/immobiliser which works and doesn't look like it's ever had anything different fitted.
Where should I be looking now please?
One other thing, the steering wheel reach has just stopped doing it's thing, the motor is working but the wheel is as far away from the driver as it can be now, the rake does work. This stopped working before I spotted the indicator issue so I don't know whether this may have caused the main problem or is totally un-related, could it have trapped/cut some wires?
Please help, any pointers very much appreciated
#3
Note your first post, so WELCOME aboard the real world of motoring.
I have read somewhere that disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes "sometimes" sorts out all kinds of evil. Of course if the original cause of the evil is still there, it will return as was quite soon after reconnection.
These are a 'juice hungry" car, and a battery that is on the way out also reeks havoc in all sorts of wierd ways.
I had a mates X308 here with wierd gear change issues of an electrical kind, after all the known electrical issue being dealt with, the battery was suspect, and/or its connectors, and the actual "buzzz bar" connnector at the +ve terminal post of the battery was showing odd black markings, so a new connector was fitted, and all sorted. Not convinced, so the old connector refited, and the evil returned, mmmm.
I have read somewhere that disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes "sometimes" sorts out all kinds of evil. Of course if the original cause of the evil is still there, it will return as was quite soon after reconnection.
These are a 'juice hungry" car, and a battery that is on the way out also reeks havoc in all sorts of wierd ways.
I had a mates X308 here with wierd gear change issues of an electrical kind, after all the known electrical issue being dealt with, the battery was suspect, and/or its connectors, and the actual "buzzz bar" connnector at the +ve terminal post of the battery was showing odd black markings, so a new connector was fitted, and all sorted. Not convinced, so the old connector refited, and the evil returned, mmmm.
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xjr666 (10-11-2011)
#5
Thank you everyone but;
I have scanned for codes and none showing.
Battery removed, checked, charged and refitted.
Loom checked at all points where it goes through any bulkheads etc, it's all good!
I have found that the motor for the steering wheel reach is def dead, but it hasn't blown any fuses/relays and I can live with that unless someone thinks that it could be the cause, doesn't look very easy to remove/replace!
Thanks again
Mike
I have scanned for codes and none showing.
Battery removed, checked, charged and refitted.
Loom checked at all points where it goes through any bulkheads etc, it's all good!
I have found that the motor for the steering wheel reach is def dead, but it hasn't blown any fuses/relays and I can live with that unless someone thinks that it could be the cause, doesn't look very easy to remove/replace!
Thanks again
Mike
#6
Mike:
The steering wheel reach is a well known problem of a short flexible shaft element. The part is available and reasonably easy to fix, although it does require removing the steering wheel, as I recall, and therefore requires disabling the air bag system.
On your other problem, the troubleshooting technique should be to isolate if the input or output circuit for the indicator is the root cause. That could be done by cutting the output wire at the Body module (I think that is where it feeds from) to see if the problem goes away- then splice the wire back. Do you have the schematic? Do you have a meter and /or 12 volt test lamp? It very well could be a module, but Occam's razor (Google that!) says it is probably a wiring loom somewhere.
If you want to tear into it, post back and I can guide you through the schematic.
The steering wheel reach is a well known problem of a short flexible shaft element. The part is available and reasonably easy to fix, although it does require removing the steering wheel, as I recall, and therefore requires disabling the air bag system.
On your other problem, the troubleshooting technique should be to isolate if the input or output circuit for the indicator is the root cause. That could be done by cutting the output wire at the Body module (I think that is where it feeds from) to see if the problem goes away- then splice the wire back. Do you have the schematic? Do you have a meter and /or 12 volt test lamp? It very well could be a module, but Occam's razor (Google that!) says it is probably a wiring loom somewhere.
If you want to tear into it, post back and I can guide you through the schematic.
Last edited by sparkenzap; 10-11-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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xjr666 (10-11-2011)
#7
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xjr666 (11-11-2011)
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#8
Hi everyone again, this problem has been solved, new Body Processor Module!
Car still not on the road though, now has a very high idle which appeared just before the MOT, so it failed on emmisions, rectified itself on the way back from the test centre then proceeded to do it again as it was about to go for a re-test and now it wont go away, brilliant!
Car still not on the road though, now has a very high idle which appeared just before the MOT, so it failed on emmisions, rectified itself on the way back from the test centre then proceeded to do it again as it was about to go for a re-test and now it wont go away, brilliant!
#9
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Location: Tjörn Sweden or Olso Norway
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Hi everyone again, this problem has been solved, new Body Processor Module!
Car still not on the road though, now has a very high idle which appeared just before the MOT, so it failed on emmisions, rectified itself on the way back from the test centre then proceeded to do it again as it was about to go for a re-test and now it wont go away, brilliant!
Car still not on the road though, now has a very high idle which appeared just before the MOT, so it failed on emmisions, rectified itself on the way back from the test centre then proceeded to do it again as it was about to go for a re-test and now it wont go away, brilliant!
High iddle is common to be a sticky throttle. Give a good clean and lube and you should be good
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xjr666 (11-14-2011)
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