I tried to search for a posted solution, but it seems most people at least get it to start, then quit. I can't get it to start at all. Turns over fine. Had no starting/running problems until now. '95 XJ6. With all the sensors, etc, I just don't where to start. How should I verify fuel? Spark, can I just pull a plug and check? Any typical things, relays, connectors, etc, to check for?

 

OK.

Lets slow it down just a tad, helps my old brain stay focused.

When its cranking, look at the tacho, if you get a 200rpm reading, or close, then the CAS (crank angle sensor) is deemed OK. This is NOT a 100% test, but close enough. NO tacho movement is almost certainly the CAS.

Locate the CAS (RH front of the timing cover), follow the wires to the vertical plug. Seperate that plug, CLEAN the male/female sections. I have had crud get inside that plug and killed my engine.

Find a mate, preferably with good hearing, and have him/her poke their head in the boot (trunk) and turn ON the ignition (NO crank), and ask if they hear the pump go whir. NO whir, NO pump , NO fuel. This could be the pump, pump relay, pump wiring harness.

Get some ether (starting fluid), and spray a sniff into the intake trunk, crank it. If it starts, then you have spark. That is a "simple" spark test for COP systems.

At the rear of the fuel rail (under the plastic cover) is the fuel line INLET. It is a double nut arrangement. Take 2 spanners (wrench/whatever) and "crack" that joint. If you get a squirt of fuel, the pump is working. Since FUEL SPILLAGE WILL HAPPEN, take the required care, PLEASE.

Once these have been eliminated, post back the results. then we work down the list.

 

Could it be the shut of switch under the right hand side of the dash?

 

First of all I have to say, you guys rock. Before I even had the chance to get back home and open the bonnet, I had help.
It turns out that it was the bad connection on the CAS. Nasty black goo and really bad corrosion. Cleaned it off and the engine fired right up.

Seems like a good excuse to order Andy's sensor. Can hurt, I'm thinking this is the original sensor and the car has 189K on it. It's been a great ride, 10+ years with little problem.

The engine could use a good de-greasing. Any problems with taking it to the car wash, or do I risk getting water/de-greaser where I don't want it?

 

Another Jag alive and kicking, gotta luv it.

Washing that engine bay is BEST done by hand and with CARE.

Pressure washers can get stuff where you really dont want it. Mainly down the spark plug holes, bugga of a job to sort that one at the carwash.

I do all ours with a p/pack degreaser, sprayed only where I want it, and one of those "pump up" garden spray bottles filled with water to wash it down, which avoids the flood crisis.

A rag soaked with degreaser wipes down the critical areas just fine, and that includes the camcover.

It does take a little longer, but I am just happier with that way.

 

I'm running the Andy mod and am a huge fan of it. However, not to derail a sale, but maybe more accurate to say, "Can't help" above - Andy sells a new, modified Crank angle sensor bracket - not the sensor - you re-use your old - or replace it if you like - but you don't get a new sensor with Andy's great modification.

 

Hi I've tried all these and mine will only start with easy start, but after that it starts every time of the key, until you leave it to cool then it won't start again, does anyone have any ideas, help would be much appreciated thanks

 

As you are new, WELCOME.

I strongly suggest that you start a new thread, as this car is basically up and running.

Please ensure the mileage of your car, engine size, etc etc.

This all helps us who will assist, to concentrate on the issue, and not assume anymore than required.

My first guess is that the throttle disc is all gummed up, hence cold start by-pass air is limited.

Second would be the Idle Control Unit (stepper motor to some) is not doing as designed, and again gummed up, carbon clogged, etc.