None taken. I sent you an email. I would like to send you a large file with a lot of good info.

You can take it from there. If the TPS checks out, then the pins on the ECU are all that are left to check.

The reading with the 0% must have been with the engine off I guess?

Actually, this is the link to the file:
​​​​​​http://jagrepair.com/images/Training...20-%202000.pdf

 

Thats very kind, thank you. I can't remember but the car ran 50 kms after the reset/"shorting" and about 100 kms after the 12,2% scan.

 

Please forget the reset shorting, there is no such thing. It does nothing for your car.

I could not replicate a 0% reading for my TPS. Even with the engine off. If the car believes the TPS is not in range, it could prevent it from going closed loop.

Why it isn’t throwing a code is a good question however I’m not sure anyone has ever seen one. Jaguar was still figuring out OBD2.

Why it’s telling you the car is not at temperature is also interesting. I’ve never seen that…and I’ve had a bad Coolant Temp Sensor. It did keep me from going closed loop; but it didn’t tell me why.

 

TPS should show around 11 - 13 % at idle as this is a reference to absolute closed total throttle " passage " , but your IAC valve will be somewhat open at idle

On his second set of data it shows 102 C for ECT

the 2 data sets are scrunched together

Your 0 % TPS reading may be a rejected or mis interpreted reading with respect to your device / reader software

You may have an intermittent TPS

To test the TPS with a common meter the middle wire on the connector should read close to 0.60 volts DC at the idle / closed stop

It should climb in voltage very smoothly as you very slowly open the throttle , no bips on the meter indicating a bad spot on the TPS

you can test this with the engine not running but the key in the run position ( the TPS is powered for this test ) with the TPS connector remaining installed

This is the Green / Yellow wire as it goes over your fuel rail

You can nick the insulation on the wire going over the fuel rail but the valve cover is not a valid ground point for the meter black lead

I found on mine the TPS connector was missing the engagement lock clip so it was just sitting on the sensor pins

 

I would add that using an analog multimeter, the kind with a needle pointing to the values instead of a digital multimeter would be more helpful. If there are any instances at all where the needle dips or drops, it’s time for a new TPS.

 

Hi guys, the Autel shows different numbers, so the other scan app has its flaws.

 

Do you have a laptop?
If so then you could buy
https://www.britishdiagnostics.co.uk...s-sdd-v130-kit
Maybe the cable won’t last, but you will have a year (at least) to sort out any problems for £99!

 

Yes, and with XP Pro running. But I only have 2,5 weeks till car has to go.

 

Is that the TPS at 2.75%? That's way out of range. Doesn't matter what RPM you're at. That is not making sense to me.

At idle you're even low at 12.16%, but perhaps the TPS was relearned.

Here's your problem. Even if you get a new TPS, you'll need someone with Jag specific software to reset the ECU to accept it. There is a way around it, but I'm not sure you're interested in buying a new TPS. I can't be 100% sure it will solve your problem.

The only free test you have left is to check the ECU pins for corrosion. After that it looks like you're gonna get rid of the car. We're likely out of time.

Perhaps if someone here had a spare TPS to lend?

 

After some thoughts, I wonder if someone didn't install the wrong TPS on the car? There are reports of a similar looking part for some Ford out there, I forget the model, but the problem was something about that TPS working in reverse. In your last post I see a smaller TPS % with a higher RPM. I wonder if thats the cause of all of this? Could it be possible that someone tried out an alternate part for the TPS?!?

I believe the TPS is at fault here.

​​​​​​https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...atives-246260/

Here's a tip: often times you can buy a used throttle assembly that still has the TPS on it for a lot less than the used TPS itself?

 

The car is driving me nuts but I love it. Im running out of time. Sure can I buy a new (ford) TPS, I found sources granada, scorpio and else but I can't make it in time. :-(

Haven't found a technical sheet with the correct values. Looked for 6 hrs but nothing.

 

You can be chasing bad information

The reader / device is looking at the Orange wire in the OBD 2 connector / port and someone has found a bent pin in theirs's

See page 234

jagxj1996.pdf (jagrepair.com)

The other end of the Orange wire is at the ECU connector socket Red 10 ( the other connections can be corrupting this wire but that involves looking at the other ECUs on the print )

You can do a meter voltage test of the TPS and know if you need to chase down a replacement TPS

Are they the correct O2 sensors as the X300 are not common ?

 

O2 are from britishparts so yes. The TPS is a potentiometer so it has to change all the time :-)

Ah thanks for the pdf

"TPS Monitoring for OBD II The range of the TPS is checked for values outside of normal limits. A fault must occur on two consecutive trips before the CHECK ENGINE MIL is activated. Refer to Systems Readiness Test, page 53." (from another x300 pdf)

 

True on the TPS changing but a manual twisting of the throttle tower shaft with a meter will let you know if you have a bad spot

And to confirm you are close to 0.60 volts DC at the idle closed position

I did some editing above

 

Pin 7

 

Your TPS return signal wire at the ECU is Red 12

The TPS is powered by a 5.0 reference voltage DC at ECU socket Red 11 , this wire between the ECU and the sensor has a splice as it also powers the EGR position sensor inside the EGR valve and the fuel tank pressure sensor ( more on that )

On its way to the fuel tank pressure sensor it passes through the Papa Indy 61 connector that can corrode ( the problem it would give is if it shorts down to a ground path which is unlikely but possible

The ECU provides a sensor ground at socket Red 7 and there is a splice between the ECU and the sensor , but is rare to go bad at the splice

You can disconnect the EGR and the fuel tank pressure sensor and test run if they where to be " dragging down " the TPS if there was a internal fault to those 2 devices

 

Thanks, but I never had a DTC regarding this but always engine temp too high on 6 different apps. Thought about the idle control valve, cause the CO ist just too high when idling.

 

The IAC valve is a 4 wire stepper motor that in this case does not have a position sensor as a follow up that it is in the correct posiion , the EGR has a ERG _ERROR PID

Out the rest of day , sorry

 

Do not use any alternate parts. There are no known substitutes.

 

TPS problems have been known, but never has anyone, ever, reported a triggered DTC. These cars are very stingy with dealing out codes and check engine lights! Do not rely on not having one to eliminate any problem. They only help when they come on, they never help when they don't come on. (If that makes sense)

Your IACV and EGR will not prevent going closed loop. Let's worry about your engine temp later, first we gotta solve the open loop issue so you can pass inspection.