Hi there, just a quick question!
I’ve got the standard cracks in the exhaust manifold front and rear on my 3.2 x300, I’ve got a front one with the air intake/egr hole without a crack that needs fitting. My question is, is it hard to fit or anything I should know as getting a local mechanic to do it but he’s not a jag specialist, any help is much appreciated.

 

It is important not to damage the downpipe flair with the fixed down pointing manifold studs , this will lose the needed seal to make the engine regulate correctly

Ask questions as I type out the instructions

The donut gasket between the 2 manifolds and the 2 downpipes is part # ( in the garage ( if I can find it )

Removal :

Best from the bottom side with a 15 mm deep socket

3 are easy but the rear inboard one needs about a 15 degree offset

By not inserting the socket extension fully into the socket you can get your angle without special tools . try this in your hand outside from under the car to experiment

The exhaust hanger back behind the Y ( this Y can be damage itself ( and can be addressed while there )

The hanger nut is also a 15 mm deep and will most likely be stuck with rust

This is a discussion point to get past or take to a shop

To get the nut off brush off the rust on the threads and heat the nut with a torch

The coupling of the aft downpipe to the middle pipe section will most likely be stuck but can be left alone

Only at this point of downpipe pulling out of way can you remove the manifolds in the gap to the side toward the finder

The same 15 mm nuts noting there are 4 on the bottom row and 3 on the top row you can see

Installation

Note the pipe flair on the inside of the downpipe coupling

You will need this bowline knot and some rope and a " L " channel steel bar of 1 meter length

After you have installed the new manifolds with new block gaskets look at the 4 mounting bolts that attach the manifold cover and obtain a 5th bolt from the hardware store

This 5th bolt in the aft most hole you will use as a pivot with the " L " channel to lever the downpie up and not damage the pipe flairs

Drill a hole in the L channel X inches from the end to insert the 5th bolt through before threading in he aft most manifold hole

Important that you wrap the long end of the L channel with a rag as it might find it's way to the windshield in the heat of battle

There is a metal bar between the 2 pipes that hold a spread

 

Thank you kindly for your comprehensive advice!

 

Will be editing the above later in the day

 

I did the job from top by using short 15mm box wrench on the downpipe nuts without much trouble at all, second pair of hands helps when assembling everything together. One of the easier things with my car. I guess if the fasteners are stuck you will have more challenge in general with the operation.