Front crossmember replacement...?
#1
Front crossmember replacement...?
Last night while up in the mountains testing some new bushings out, I hit a boulder and did some pretty good damage to my front end on the XJR
Damaged my A/C condenser/ radiator/ lower radiator hose/ lower radiator mount/ front bumper/ radiator fans and shroud/ tore some belts but all those things I should be able to replace easily.
I've already picked up a replacement radiator (I know they're hard to find) and the lower radiator mount.
What I'm worried about is the cross member bar that the intercooler bolts up to.
How would I go replacing that? Cut and weld a new piece on or try to bend it back into place? I've got a winch I can use to pull it back somehow
I've tried looking on JaguarClassicParts for a diagram but all they show is the crossmember by itself.
Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get my XJR up and running again in no time.
Damaged my A/C condenser/ radiator/ lower radiator hose/ lower radiator mount/ front bumper/ radiator fans and shroud/ tore some belts but all those things I should be able to replace easily.
I've already picked up a replacement radiator (I know they're hard to find) and the lower radiator mount.
What I'm worried about is the cross member bar that the intercooler bolts up to.
How would I go replacing that? Cut and weld a new piece on or try to bend it back into place? I've got a winch I can use to pull it back somehow
I've tried looking on JaguarClassicParts for a diagram but all they show is the crossmember by itself.
Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get my XJR up and running again in no time.
#2
#4
Could you perhaps fabricate a new one from a length of pipe by welding
the old fittings on?
Or perhaps you could cut off a few inches from each end, put a short
length of pipe with a OD matching the ID of the existing ends as
reinforcement and use a long piece of pipe to replace the cut out
section. The point of the reinforcement is to permit a good weld.
That technique is what is used to shorten halfshafts on Jag IRS's
used in Cobra's etc.
When the cross tie was bent, it would have pulled in the front of the
subframe legs. A good look is in order.
the old fittings on?
Or perhaps you could cut off a few inches from each end, put a short
length of pipe with a OD matching the ID of the existing ends as
reinforcement and use a long piece of pipe to replace the cut out
section. The point of the reinforcement is to permit a good weld.
That technique is what is used to shorten halfshafts on Jag IRS's
used in Cobra's etc.
When the cross tie was bent, it would have pulled in the front of the
subframe legs. A good look is in order.
#5
Could you perhaps fabricate a new one from a length of pipe by welding
the old fittings on?
Or perhaps you could cut off a few inches from each end, put a short
length of pipe with a OD matching the ID of the existing ends as
reinforcement and use a long piece of pipe to replace the cut out
section. The point of the reinforcement is to permit a good weld.
That technique is what is used to shorten halfshafts on Jag IRS's
used in Cobra's etc.
When the cross tie was bent, it would have pulled in the front of the
subframe legs. A good look is in order.
the old fittings on?
Or perhaps you could cut off a few inches from each end, put a short
length of pipe with a OD matching the ID of the existing ends as
reinforcement and use a long piece of pipe to replace the cut out
section. The point of the reinforcement is to permit a good weld.
That technique is what is used to shorten halfshafts on Jag IRS's
used in Cobra's etc.
When the cross tie was bent, it would have pulled in the front of the
subframe legs. A good look is in order.
Any tips on trying to bend the subframe legs back into place?
#6
If you can buy part #3, that is the best choice.
Is that part not bolted on?
If it is welded then don't remove until you have
the new part to avoid cutting things you might
need for fabrication.
That part seems to be a reinforcement across the
ends of the crush tubes.
In that case, the tubes have to be measured to ensure
they are still square. That could be done by dropping plumb
lines and marking on cardboard placed under the front end.
The measurements should be in the manual.
If they still all line up, then you are good to go.
If not, then a chassis shop that can do chassis pulling
will be involved unless you are capable of doing the
work properly.
Been meaning to ask, how big was that boulder? Did it just roll
into the road?
Is that part not bolted on?
If it is welded then don't remove until you have
the new part to avoid cutting things you might
need for fabrication.
That part seems to be a reinforcement across the
ends of the crush tubes.
In that case, the tubes have to be measured to ensure
they are still square. That could be done by dropping plumb
lines and marking on cardboard placed under the front end.
The measurements should be in the manual.
If they still all line up, then you are good to go.
If not, then a chassis shop that can do chassis pulling
will be involved unless you are capable of doing the
work properly.
Been meaning to ask, how big was that boulder? Did it just roll
into the road?
#7
I'm not sure if it's bolted on or not. From what I've heard it's welded onto the frame itself. I'll have a better look once I start removing parts that are in the way, like the bumper for starters. I'm hoping that if the crumple zone was affected that it was only minor since from looking at it last night and this morning, I don't see any major damage (creases in the frame or something like that)
As for the boulder, it was probably a good 3.5ft wide and 3ft tall. It was almost more like a rectangular shape. From looking at the damage, it definitely could have been worse but my sway bar protected the engine block from the boulder. I remember slightly that when I hit the rock I felt my car go up and over the boulder. I think the hitting the sway bar was made it go up and since I had my steering wheel locked to the right, it made the car bounce up and was able to "drive" over it with my driver front tire because my lower control arm wasn't touched.
As for the boulder, it was probably a good 3.5ft wide and 3ft tall. It was almost more like a rectangular shape. From looking at the damage, it definitely could have been worse but my sway bar protected the engine block from the boulder. I remember slightly that when I hit the rock I felt my car go up and over the boulder. I think the hitting the sway bar was made it go up and since I had my steering wheel locked to the right, it made the car bounce up and was able to "drive" over it with my driver front tire because my lower control arm wasn't touched.
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#8
Hmmm.... don't know what your budget is, but a member who does not want
to replace his front shocks has a 60k cranberry 2000 XJR for sale in FL.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...milage-140167/
to replace his front shocks has a 60k cranberry 2000 XJR for sale in FL.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...milage-140167/
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