Front subframe cracked
#1
Front subframe cracked
Ever since I bought my X300 ive noticed that it's a bit unsettled over bumps. I never thought much of it but the other day I had the right front wheel off and I noticed that the front subframe is cracked badly around the upper control arm/wishbone.
Obviously I need to fix this so I was wondering what can be done;
1 - replace subframe with a good used one, but how can I ensure that this doesn't happen again?, what causes this problem initially?
2 - is it possible to repair the original subframe?, remove it and weld reinforcements on/patch the crack.
3 - how do I remove the subframe?, from what I can think of it would just be supporting the engine, unbolting the engine mounts, brake calipers, steering shaft etc. If anyone could direct me to a guide or more information I would appreciate it.
If you've got any ideas, warnings, opinions or answers to the above please let me know.
Obviously I need to fix this so I was wondering what can be done;
1 - replace subframe with a good used one, but how can I ensure that this doesn't happen again?, what causes this problem initially?
2 - is it possible to repair the original subframe?, remove it and weld reinforcements on/patch the crack.
3 - how do I remove the subframe?, from what I can think of it would just be supporting the engine, unbolting the engine mounts, brake calipers, steering shaft etc. If anyone could direct me to a guide or more information I would appreciate it.
If you've got any ideas, warnings, opinions or answers to the above please let me know.
#2
a good frame shop should be able to weld it adequately without removing it. But, then it's to rack to see if it's all straight. I would consider a replacement crossmember.
If it's been cracked for some time, it's most likely stretched out of shape, which will throw your front-end tracking/alignment out.
There's enough rusted hulks around that you should be able to get a complete unit for a reasonable price. Rebuilds it on the workbench, then pick a weekend for the swap.
If it's been cracked for some time, it's most likely stretched out of shape, which will throw your front-end tracking/alignment out.
There's enough rusted hulks around that you should be able to get a complete unit for a reasonable price. Rebuilds it on the workbench, then pick a weekend for the swap.
#3
We hung the engine from a bar across the wings then put a jacking beam under the subframe. Remove the shocks, springs (you really need to use a Jaguar spring compressor because if they let go, they'll punch a hole through concrete). Remove the rear fulcrum bolt - helpfully, Jaguar had cross-threaded mine in the factory. Down the whole lot comes.
SPX sell the spring compressors for a reasonable price (not far off the price of borrowing one twice from the JEC).
Last edited by theJPster; 09-14-2013 at 04:06 AM.
#4
............... how do I remove the subframe?, from what I can think of it would just be supporting the engine, unbolting the engine mounts, brake calipers, steering shaft etc. If anyone could direct me to a guide or more information I would appreciate it..............
However you chose to support the weight of the engine (from above) and the transmission (from below), safety is critical. These are heavy components.
This is the sequence I followed to remove the Cross Member:
- slacken rear cross member mounting bolts - 28 mm hexagon with nyloc
- remove air intake & MAF sensor to access LH cross member bolts
- slacken shock absorber and front Vee mounting bolts (2 per side on Vee mountings) 17mm shocker top & 10mm Vee mount
- support car body on axle stands under front jacking points
- remove front wheels
- remove front brake calipers from carriers & hang on wires from cross member mounting (tie-down?) brackets
- disconnect speed sensors from brake carriers & hang next to calipers
- disconnect track rod ends
- disconnect & remove speed sensor wiring harness (2 cable ties – top and front of cross member)
- disconnect steering rack pipe clips but leave pipes connected
- disconnect steering rack pinch bolt
- disconnect steering rack from cross member – 4 nuts & bolts and separate from steering shaft
- support steering rack on suitable block of wood and move it as far back towards gearbox bellhousing as possible
- support engine from scaffolding - roped through brackets and around manifolds
- support front of cross member – timber again to spread load
- remove front bumper cover undertray
- remove 2 rear cross member mounting bolts
- remove 4 top Vee mounting bolts
- lower cross member on trolley jack and slide out from under car (had to compress shock absorbers to clear front bumper cover - should have removed them
- remove & replace Vee mounts – T40 torx bit
Graham
#5
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