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I have a good skillset but suspension is not something I have tons of experience working on. There are perished bushings and the balljoints need replacing as the boots are split.
So what am I getting myself into here.
My main concern is dealing with the front springs. I have seen posts with threaded rod tools built to take the springs out but I do not know if the springs need to come out to change various bushings in the suspension?
Can anyone who has replaced bushings and various components up front enlighten me a little to the workload involved in going through the front end completely?
There are kits on ebay that contain all the necessary bushings to replace everything up front.
I have done the entire front suspension on our '93 XJ40, which is very similar to your X300. You can do the ball joints, upper control arm bushes and shock bushings without removing the springs.
To renew the lower control arm bushings you must remove the springs.
To renew the subframe Vee mounts and rear pivot bushings, the subframe must be dropped. This requires some method of supporting the engine/transmission, preferably from above.
As far as tools go, in addition to a safe means of decompressing and recompressing the road spring, you need a means of replacing the various bushings. The control arm bushes can probably be replaced via the socket and long bolt method, but the rear subframe pivot bushes may require a hydraulic press. I use a small press purchased from Harbor Freight (in the U.S.) for $70.00.
While you're doing front suspension work, consider repacking the grease in the front wheel bearings, or replacing the bearings, since they are inexpensive.
Below are some photos showing some of the work involved:
I am in the midst of this project as we speak (type). The front spring tool Don B suggested is quite easy to fabricate. I ended up using the shorter half of the 3' shaft I cut. I didn't get the car up high enough to use the long threaded bar section so I jacked up the spring with the jack and then finished off with the compressor tool. I'm on to removing the bushings before I slap the Powerflex poly bushes in. I also have H&R springs coming via UPS Ground on Monday for install as well Can't wait!
I will do the subframe V mounts and rear sub frame bushes at a later date.
Hello, so I have been fixing up a 97 vdp and after wonder why the wheel pulls left like crazy when i let go and i have found that someone crashed the front driver side and bent some suspension components. And the lower control arm is definitely bent. Whats the easiest or most efficient way to replace this ? Im sure it’ll be a nightmare getting the arm off as i can look and see that the bolt is bent as well. Any advice would help. I’ve done a full rear suspension rebuild now i want to do the front.
Hello, so I have been fixing up a 97 vdp and after wonder why the wheel pulls left like crazy when i let go and i have found that someone crashed the front driver side and bent some suspension components. And the lower control arm is definitely bent. Whats the easiest or most efficient way to replace this ? Im sure it’ll be a nightmare getting the arm off as i can look and see that the bolt is bent as well.
Since the long fulcrum bolt is bent and will have to be replaced, the fastest method for removing it may be to saw through it with a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) and bi-metal blade so the control arms can be removed. The lower control arms unbolt from one another near the shock absorber bushing, which will help you move other ends away from the subframe to get your saw blade on to the bolt. Once you cut through the bolt you can hopefully drive the remaining section(s) out of the subframe with a long punch and hammer. You may need to support the engine and lower the subframe for access.
Be sure you can find good parts before you begin. I believe the fulcrum bolts are still available from Jaguar, but they are expensive. Good salvaged parts may be your best bet.
Before releasing the lower control arm you need to compress the road spring. Normal spring compressors are not safe for this task, and you need an appropriate and safe tool. Covered elsewhere in the forum, and a serious safety issue.
Thank you for the advice, im gonna be attempting this soon and will update. Where can i find a new bolt ? Without having to remove it from a donor i have.
Where can i find a new bolt ? Without having to remove it from a donor i have.
Hi mh.anthony6,
The part number for the lower control arm fulcrum bolt & nut is JLM11858. Check with our forum sponsors SNG Barratt and Jagbits. Jaguar shows the bolts are still available at a retail price of about $150.00. SNG Barratt and Jagbits may have aftermarket options.
BTW, I had to scroll back to your initial post to be reminded of the year and model of your Jaguar. It is helpful if you visit your User Control Panel and edit your signature to include the year, model and engine of your Jaguar so these important details appear in all of your posts.
I am replacing the front suspension bushings and also resealing my oil pan. Can someone tell me where to support the engine on both sides? I figured out the driver's side, but not sure about the passenger. I would assume that somehow you use the manifold bots as a support, but I'm not sure. Also, in this thread, @Don B speaks of pictures in the Jag-lovers forum, but the links are no longer valid. Are there any other pictures?
There is a hoist bracket on the top side on the engine , the bracket may or may not be there , someone found a simple top side engine holding cradle at harbor freight
I am replacing them all, and I do have the topside engine holding cradle, which has two places to support the engine. I'm just not sure where to support the other side. I also have to reseal the sump, so I do need to drop the front suspension.
I am replacing the front suspension bushings and also resealing my oil pan. Can someone tell me where to support the engine on both sides? I figured out the driver's side, but not sure about the passenger. I would assume that somehow you use the manifold bots as a support, but I'm not sure. Also, in this thread, @Don B speaks of pictures in the Jag-lovers forum, but the links are no longer valid. Are there any other pictures?
Hi Phil,
Unfortunately, when Jag-Lovers changed servers awhile back, many of my old photos did not make the move. I'm sure I still have the photo files, but they're on a hard drive of one of the old desktop computers I haven't used in a decade, so I may never find them again.
My recollection is that you can support the engine from just one side - the tranmission mount will support the rear of the assembly. You don't have to use both of the hooks on the engine support bar, so if you have a good point on the driver's side, I think that should be enough. Hopefully someone who has done it more recently will chime in.
" My recollection is that you can support the engine from just one side - the transmission mount will support the rear of the assembly. You don't have to use both of the hooks on the engine support bar, so if you have a good point on the driver's side, I think that should be enough. Hopefully someone who has done it more recently will chime in. "
Not having done it before , will the transmission crossmember keep the engine block from twisting to be able to lower the engine back on the engine mounts ?
Or in his case bring the front suspension assembly up to the engine with some form of disassembly of the angled engine block mount castings
Note the angle of the green disk
The transmission body sitting on top of the transmission crossmember is a post type , but I can be wrong without researching
Not having done it before , will the transmission crossmember keep the engine block from twisting to be able to lower the engine back on the engine mounts ?
Or in his case bring the front suspension assembly up to the engine with some form of disassembly of the angled engine block mount castings
Note the angle of the green disk
The green disc is the seating surface of the right engine mount. The left mount sits at a similar, but opposing angle. The mounting brackets on the engine match those angles.
I just checked the Workshop Manual section on engine mount replacement, and it mentions securing the lifting hoist to the "lifting eyes of the front engine lifting brackets" to lift the engine slightly:
I can't visualize these "lifting eyes of the front engine lifting brackets," but hopefully someone can post a photo.
A single lifting point at the front of the engine should work, if it is fairly centered on the front of the engine.
I think I had a picture in an older computer that went boom boom
This is a link to some pics ( under my past Lady Penelope contributor name ) of the mount assembly if the engine was to twist , in mating it all back together
Thanks for posting the link to the thread with your photos. In this thread, it is Phil (cdma) who is currently planning to work on his front suspension and he has a 4.0L straight six. He's wondering where on the engine to attach his engine support bar, so your V12 is not applicable. Do you know where the lift eyes or other good support points are on the AJ16?
In looking with mine it makes sense at this attach point as when the engine is in position it has a to the cars right lean so there would not be a induced twist , if you loopeed a rope around the intake pipes only then you would
8) Before lifting the complete engine / transmission unit with an engine hoist from the engine bay, ensure that two engine lifting brackets (tool 18G. 1465) are secured equally spaced to the inlet manifold studs. The engine lifting brackets should be positioned towards the front and the rear of the assembly. Ensure the front of the vehicle is jacked up securely on stands when removing the assembly.
One thing I noted from @watto700 is that I need the compressor tool. However if I am pulling the entire subframe I will not need to compress the springs?
10-03-2015, 10:22 AM
Front Suspension - How Difficult?
Can't wait!
