The supercharger is located on the left hand on engine. The V8 is located at the top... I think

 

OK so lets look at the IAC valve

The IAC does not have a follow up position sensor like the EGR valve to show a error being able to see with a ELM - 327 reader or CEL code

But have you inspected the ECU connectors for missing pinching socket tabs and corrosion?

I found 4 sockets on mine missing the 2nd pinching tab to make good connection with the male pin

The IAC sockets are A , B , C , D on the black connector

 

Pic is upside down from above pic with a space before the # 1 socket

 

ECU Case ground wire installed ?

 

where are the IAC sockets?
I cannot see them, dis you referee to the 36 and 12 connectors?

 

Running off for a bit

 

Yes the 2 / 36 pin connectors on the ECU and get the part # off the ECU as there is a difference

Does the ECU have a sticker on it saying a TSB has been done ? R493 ; there is also a sticker near the radiator if accomplished

Mass air flow sensor part # as there is a difference

Has the ECU or TPS ever been changed in its history even though they have the correct part # ?

Connector secured on the TPS ?

Large ground strap from the starter mound bolt to car from clean ?

Other ground studs cleaned , 2 on the fire wal and one on each side on the car frame rail behind the headlights ?

Papa Indy 1 and Papa indy 61 connectors clean ?

 

I have check the transmisión control module and it was a little bit unplug. Now I have put the connection guard on the ecu and the transmisión light goes... simple

But the idle is above the 800 rpms when P or N are selected...



The RPM on R, D and the 2,3


As you could see on the pictures, the RPMs are the only difference between them... the throttle butterfly is 11,3 % and there is an 300rpms between both screen shots...

 

Taking off for a bit

Read edited above post

 

I will check it tomorrow but I still think that the problem is between the gear box and the engine sensors... Tomorrow I will check it and tell you the result.

Thanks Parker, probably this post could help more people tan me

 

The Transmission ECU and Engine ECU cross talk to each other on the Orange wire , Black 26 on the ECU connector

The same Orange wire is in the OBD 2 port that someone had the pins touching each other

 

Yesterday I tried to clean all the connectors also I opined the ECU and there was no problem on any pin.

Today I will checked the gearbox P relay. When the P is selected sometimes it is not lighting in red.

I will try more options to reduce the engine revs at P and N.

 

Notice where the P light comes from on the wiring guide

Because you do or do not have the P light does not necessarily have a direct wiring connection to a missing action but the P light " corresponds " or happens at the same time as an actionand have been taught through the years

This P light is something I never nailed down as a wiring connection or a utilization of a signal inside of a box not clearly shown on a print

In the course of how things happen you would expect from experience that you should get the P light before an action should accure but direct wiring may not be the case

Your P light is on page 81 in the lower right in the print

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf

Your linier switch is the big rectangle on the right of the shift lever in this pic , it can get fluid contamination but cleaned

You are not going to have a rotary switch on the GM transmission

 

I had checked the gearbox upper partas and wirings connectors also I cleaned it. There was no problems.
This morning I failed the gasses test but it was not relevant because there was a high idle revs on that test and it was not able to do a correct test...

The gear box is great, the sped and the gear shift are okay. Also on the manual 2, 3 and D positions. The revs at R, D are more or less on their 800 rpms. But I have to push the breaks to stop the car on that positions.

Anyway, I have experiencing the high revs. For this reasons, I will try to remove the intake manifold and also the throttle body, clean it up and verify if the throttle butterfly is correct or not... somebody knows what is the correct openings in millimeters? (I mean the opening gap)

Thanks again Parker 7.

 

When I had my TB apart, I failed to notice a adjustment to the butterfly mechanical stop position

But what I have gathered is to leave this mechanical stop alone least ": get lost " on your fine tuning

Do not remove the TPS sensor and more on that later

The intake manifold does not need to come off least disturbing the manifold to head gasket seal < there is a torque pattern to the head bolts

There is no gasket between the TB and manifold , it is metal to metal

Someone recently had good idle results from cleaning the carbon from the EGR valve

The IAC bolts have a habit of snapping

Vee had a suggestion to give the pins / blades of the MAF sensor connector a slight twist to make better contact

Editing

There have been some that instead of replacing the throttle spring with the updated stronger one , but to preload or change the installation position to give the original more force

Some have put an straight extremal spring to assist the original spiral spring

Now on the TPS and your fine tuning

The TPS does not have an adjustment but.......

You can drill a size up on the plastic TPS body mount holes and the TPS has some wiggle room

But.........

When the car was originally built, they installed the TPS with no adjustment.

With the TPS connector on and powered up the middle wire ( Green / Yellow ) has a value of between 0.60 + or - 0.02 volts DC at the idle stop

This is your null position

They would electronical match or they use the term "orientation "tune the ECU to match this null

You might be on 0.58 or 0.61 volts DC at this point of matching

So it is important to know that TPS value before tinkering with it

Very hard to find the electronic equipment to adjust the ECU so you can consider that the orientation is fixed

You would have to match the TPS to the fixed ECU orientation but you have no way to know what the ECU itself orientation is

On your emission test you can clean the O2 sensor connectors and clean the grounds on the rear firewall

The 02 sensor connectors can get swapped by mistake as they fit each others position

The 02 sensor connectors have the same wire colors with the 4th one being different

It is this 4th wire that is the critical return signal wire to the ECU

This wire ( s ) has a shield ground on the rear firewall





'

 

If you do remove the supercharger clean the EGR temp sensor bulb and the inlet air temp sensor bulb

Not all X300s have a EGR valve

or have 4 O2 sensors

 

the test couldn't be done with the high speed idle... but yes the sensor are more or less in those values. I think that the MAF is giving me the bad measuring it is 0.07 0.08 at the idle and I remember that you write above it should be around 4 g/s. Is it correct?

thanks for the explanation above

 

Yes , the supercharged MAF is a different part # then the normally asperated

The MAF and ECU are different for the SC

Even with the values you read on the MAF multiply by 10 or 100 to make more sense , software error in the device

At the correct idle speed the MAF on the middle wire should read 1.2 volts DC on paper

You can adjust it to match the current idle speed up a bit

 

I have no EGR because it is the first series of the MY94 so it hasn't EGR

 

Twist the pins on the MAF and see if the values come in range