The round trip took place. Each leg takes about 2/3 of a tank and was started with a full tank of the same brand and grade of non-ethanol winter blend fuel that the car always gets.

On each leg the fuel economy picked up by a solid 1.5 MPG as compared to all previous trips on the same route at the same 80'ish cruising speeds. Always with climate control on. LTFT logged on the OBD-II port for about a third of the return trip showed a steady 8 percent positive value on both banks. Very strange for picking up 1.5 MPG.

However, that is an inconclusive result and easily attributed to the other contributing factor on this trip. The rear toe-in was reduced to 0.05 degrees on each side, or 0.1 degrees total. It was formerly 0.9 degrees total. Otherwise known technically as "a lot". This alone can account for the 1.5 MPG or more. The front is also out of adjustment and is due for the next round of diy laser treatment. The tire inflation on this trip was 32 psi cold, whereas some of the previous trips have been at tire inflation pressures of up to 38 psi cold.

But, the idle is rock solid smooth and quieter behind the wheel than the climate control fan at its lowest speed. Absolutely no miss at all and lowered to 600 rpm from 700'ish rpm.

Additionally, the exhaust has deepened to a steady bass note. That is an effect that has been noted by others as well.

The return trip was also punctuated by a visit to a country store that sells oils that are hard to get in the city. 1 quart of Valvoline TC-W3 and two jugs of Shell Rotella 0W40 wandered into the trunk

edit: currently running at a mix of 650:1

 

Thanks Plums
I haven't been driving my car much so nice to see others testing
How many ml per litre is 640 to 1 ?
I have been playing with ratios in my scooter its a 4stroke water cooled multivalve engine albeit a 200 cc one and I have been adding 5 ml to 9 litres fuel and the thing has been transformed

 

640:1

so ...

1000cc/640 = 1.5625 cc per litre.

1.5cc per litre and call it good enough

BTW, 5cc in 9 litres is 1800:1. You could perhaps try 10cc to get 900:1.

 

640:1 is the ratio of gasoline to TCW3 oil I'm using too. 1 fl oz per 5 US gallons. Faster warm starts and smooth idle. Haven't missed a gas re-filling since I started a month ago or so.

 

Mine, too. How is this explained?

Unfortunately, after about 1500 miles of driving with the TCW3 sweetened gasoline the change in exhaust tone is the only thing I've noticed

Maybe my backsides need a good sandpapering?

Cheers
DD

 

So you're actually going to admit in public that you're using an additive? GASP!

I have no clue on the exhaust tone other than perhaps carboning on the inside surfaces. Much like a custom exhaust sounds better after a few miles.

I have a new candidate theory on the smoother idle though ... loosening up deposits on the EGR.

The idle used to have the odd stumble ... all gone now. Nothing worrisome ... it was just there.

Anyways, as a dual fuel pump victim in the past, just the possibility of making them last is good enough. The rest is just a bonus.

 

29 pages, pdf:

http://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/...ovalSystem.pdf

 

With the scooter I actually started at 12 ml per 9 litres fuel worked my way down to 5 sounds awesome the exhaust note is deeper accelerates better
Its got me a bit baffled Ill read you pdf see what goes LOL

 

Be sure to let us know when you find the ratio where the SYM sounds like a BSA 650

 

I would have to get rid of it then I like it because its so unobtrusive and quiet and traffic what traffic

I have also been adding it to our other motorbikes feels really good as well

My Kawasaki is a 2000cc V twin yes 1000 cc per cylinder with custom pipes pix bellow with my wife's 800 volusia in the background

I finally read your posted pdf link my god do they do the same with other oils TC-W3 is like a government on its own

 

Just returned from a trip to So. California. I used StaBil Marine fuel treatment one oz to 10 gallons on the way South. Everyone I know up here swears by the stuff and I have used it in the garden equipment for a long time.

I got 22mpg and had a smooth idle at 700 rpm,. I ran into a Lucas Oil distributor at the Airshow; he talked me into trying their product. On the way home I had to change gasoline brands and at one time tried 89 octane. At 70mph the Low octane gas did not seem to have much effect except for a loss of 1.5mpg or so.
Driving at speed there were a couple of brief "stumbles" just enough to cause a pucker but no problems??
Next I plan to try the outboard oil you guys talk about and perhaps do a more controlled experiment. Thanks to all for the information

 

That's almost double the 1300cc dohc on a Alfa GT Junior. It made up for it with 4.88 gears. Not great on the top end, but it surprised a bunch of big V8's in the first 3 gears

All oil certification programs are similar. They include stringent spec's on running the oil through a specific set of engines. No guessing allowed. Check out some of the tests for approval on big truck engines from the likes of Cummins, Mack, Allison, Volvo. That makes the HDEO which carry 4 stroke ratings in addition to diesel ratings a pretty good bet. For example, Valvoline Blue is specifically endorsed by Cummins. Rotella is approved by all of the above, and recommended by Shell for "mixed fleet". That means "stock one oil and put it in everything in your fleet that requires either diesel or four stroke rated oil".

 

PLUMS
The Kawasaki has 110 hp at the rear wheel and 165 ft pound torque at 1800RPM
in a 460kg package

I also like taking V8,s at the lights and seeing the look on there face also has a top speed of 240,k,s per hour which I have personally tested quite a few times had it since 05 got 65,000 k,s on it love that torque curve

That's why I like the XJR for a 6 cylinder luxury car it gets along very nicely

The point where I have it at he moment is pretty near perfection mechanically got a tiny bit of rust

Just starting to get into oils and its a very interesting to learn about

 

Okay just got back from a 4,000 k trip used my XJR this time instead of the diesel Jeep

I was surprised at the economy best I got on the trip before filling up was 610 k,s

I was pretty amazed at that as best previous the car ever did was 450 to 500 k,s to a tank
When I first bought it in 08 it would only get 380k,s to a tank

I have done a lot of mods to the vehicle since then

I was adding 140 ml TC-W3 to a filled to the brim tank but noticed a bit of a blue film on the back of the car this could also be from the car not being on such a journey in 5 years

I backed the mix of TC-W3 back to 120ml and the film disappeared the car ran like a dream

I have no previous tests on fuel economy as the car had quite a few problems over the last couple of years but I think its spot on now not sure what other XJR,s are getting as my car has a 3.54 diff ratio headers full exhaust system remapped ECU improved inter-cooler pump and cold air induction plus a vast array of new sensors coils air flow meters
hence the original 380k range when I first got it
the engine also has 245,000k,s on the odometer

I did see a couple of 180k blips of speed to overtake some snails trying to weasel themselves in front of me so I cant say if the TC-W3 made for better economy as my car is far from stock but she did purr like a kitten all the way only problem traction control fail light came on a couple of times

I haven't had a chance to see if its thrown a code yet got to also figure out the sticking throttle problem as well at least I know how to kick the throttle slightly while pulling up that cures the sticking throttle just wondering if the traction fail has something to do with the sticking throttle

 

Interesting posts guys
I have been more getting interested in oil lately. I am adding the TCW3 to all 3 cars plus the Briggs & Stratton!
I had a good talk to a diesel injector mechanic 3 days ago and picked his brain.
By the way, he recommends Hyundai passenger diesels - he said they get hardly any in for repair - about 1 Hyundai per 30 Toyota Hiluxs... Also he said the quality of refined diesel in NZ is poor, which is bad for the new Euro Diesels and good for his business!
But what I really wanted to know about was engine oil. I am about to take over my dad's 1920s Alvis vintage car. I was asking someone with another old Alvis what oil she uses and she said go for the pre-SJ (I think) as the older types have cleaning additives which old engines need. This puzzled me - I thought newer oils must be better.
Anyway, the diesel injector guy said that engines with higher carbon particulate content in the oils from blow-by (ie: Diesels & my old Alvis) need the additives to suspend the carbon particles and minimise them causing wear. The modern oils don't have these additives any more, but Diesel engine oils still do. So I could use a diesel 15/40 in the Alvis... this makes sense.
It may also be a good idea for our old Jag engines as they get a few miles on. I will do this once the oil starts to get dirty fairly quickly after a change - having said this a month ago I bought 8 x 4litre packs of Castrol 15W-40 Magnatec for the Jag as it was on half-price special so I got all squirrelly and did some stockpiling... might be a while to get through all that

I also stockpiled 6 genuine Jag oil filters at $40 each (ouch). They definitely work better than the Fram that the mechanic fitted - the Fram was taking 3-5 seconds for pressure to come up on cold starting, and I didn't like the sound of the crank bearings rumbling during this short but critical period... no problem with the Genuine ones

Doc,you got me lusting after a XJR6 with all your tales.. What's your 0-100km/h time? Have you measured it?

 

@doc

120ml to a tank, but how big is the tank?

I'm still at 1.5ml per litre ... or thereabouts, I'm not too fussy when measuring

 

re- tank size:
I got down to the fuel warning light the other day, the trip computer said range 10 km
I then filled 72 litres before the pump clicked off

 

On the trip I did get a few red lights on the fuel gauge and did some praying and coaxing as well

Most I could get in the first red light incident was 74.3 litres

I have never ever been able to put that much into it before funny thing the distance till empty was saying 200 to go when all of a sudden the gauge dropped bellow empty and next thing its saying distance to empty 30 k,s needless to say my poofle valve tightened and I was talking very gently to my car
I also dropped my speed back from 120 to 90 k,s I felt a splutter when I drove into the garage she didn't fail me and no embarrassment

I had been adding 145ml per tank previously and that was only 65 to 68 litres each time
I have now gone to 120ml at 68 70 and higher but I don't want to ever get to the point where I am putting anything over 70 litres in the tank again don't think my nerves could take it LOL

I cant say if the TC-W3 increased my mileage as my car is far from stock but she did run extremely well not a single hicup hesitation nothing

Apart from the traction fail light coming on twice she ran beautifully motivated me to do it again soon something about being on the open road and no one else in the car to passenger seat drive nice feeling

As for the TC-W3 I will keep using it at the ratios we are using it cant see it doing any harm

 

Be careful of running with the tank lower than say 1/4 full. The fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel bath.

The way to maintain your mix is to note your fill from the pump dial or cash register receipt and multiply by your pre-calculated preferred factor. Or keep a pre-printed chart in the car.

1.5ml/1L is easy ... number of litres and half again.

 

I mentioned the use of TC-W3 to the neighbour of a relative while out of town in the context of ethanol.

He had some things to say about ethanol which are quite credible. He happens to be a Mercruiser/Evinrude dealer.

The damaging effects of ethanol blended gasoline is old news to the pleasure craft industry as I had previously asserted. They do not like it at all.

As proof positive that they consider ethanol harmful, consider that Mercruiser is at least one manufacturer that will not honour a warranty claim on a dead fuel pump after winter storage if the winterisation procedure has not been followed. In other words, storage with plain ethanol blended gasoline voids the warranty for fuel system related problems. It cannot be much clearer than that.

The winterisation procedure is to empty the tank, and run a 50:1 mix of gasoline and TC-W3 from an external reservoir through the system to coat all internal surfaces. Yes, it smokes ... a lot.

When asked for clarification, he stated that this procedure included applications like the big inboard/outboard four stroke units based on automotive engines. So, this is not some special two-stroke procedure.

They consider ethanol blended gasoline to be stale after two weeks.

BTW, the trip yielded marginally better gas mileage and the now customary rock steady idle.