When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Larry. You know better. This job is to be done once, and done right. It is no picnic to remove and reinstall the balancer. It is an important component that deserves the appropriate treatment. Why on earth would you use super glue from the dollar store?? If you are going to go thru all of this trouble, at least get yourself some 3-packs of Walgreen's super glue. I heard somewhere it is really strong stuff, and its on sale this week! Please let us know how this works out for you. After all, I also love no-cost/low-cost fixes!
Well it finally happened to me ...my harmonic balancer failed with an accompanying racket loud enough to scare the neighbours and any small children close by.
So, decided to 'walk the walk' instead of just 'talking the talk'. Gave the balancer seam a series of four $1.50 dollar store superglue drinks. I used the thinnest stuff I could find and spaced out each tubefull by about 8 hours, driving the car fairly easily between each application.
It's been a few days since I gave it the "medicine" and I've put about 75 miles on the car in the interim, driving both in town, on the highway and up steep hills in 80+ degree weather. The balancer doesn't slip any more -and touch wood, I'd say the superglue has successfully re-bonded the balancer in place, on the car, with a total cash outlay of $6.00
So now I can definitively say the superglue repair works ...how long remains to be seen, but for now, she's fixed.
So you just squeezed in the superglue, in place?!?!? I’m assuming you squeeZe some in, let it settle in, then turn the wheel and repeat.....then repeat again.
That’s......pretty awesome. Please keep the forum up to speed on its durability!!!!
Replacement balancer arrived today, which is a good thing because I think I heard the superglued one squawk once or twice today!
Can anyone confirm the thread size of the two small holes for the puller in the face of the HB? I don't think they are metric, I tried M8 1.25 x 65mm and seemed way too stiff ...could they be 5/16"-18?
Hopefully they are the same on the 94 XJ40 ...knowing Jag though, they probably are, right? Apparently this part started out on the 1975 XJS so kinda makes sense the threads are not metric.
Thanks for walking the walk after talking the talk, Larry. It was an interesting experiment. Not really too crazy after all!
I think the heat and vibration will loosen it up relatively quickly. But it is good to know that this quick fix will extend running time for a car, while sourcing tools and arranging a proper repair.
In June I was swapping out the CKPS and carelessly broke the bracket at the bolt hole. I forgot that the bracket isn't steel, it is cast aluminum and fairly brittle. I used super glue and It worked! The first frustrating fix attempt with JB Weld did not hold. Super glue was a good temporary fix until the honorable Mr. @davidboger was able to send an excellent used bracket promptly.
Quick update lads - installed the replacement balancer yesterday using starter bump method to get it off (3/4" drive breaker bar and 1/5/16" impact socket) - no issues on removal other than having to cut a few inches off the puller centre ...too long to fit in the limited space between the rad and the pulley.
Re-installing, used a homemade tool to lock up the engine while I cranked her back up to spec.
Longer side of the bar is about 2 feet, long enough to contact the floor.
The super glue worked enough (I had to apply it several times over the 10 days before I got to the job) to keep her running somewhat silently, but now she's back to her silent purring self!
The balancer I removed was in terrible shape, chunks of rubber missing and really far gone. Still rebuildable though, no physical damage other than superglue all over everything.
Of course the superglue got on to the belt and stuck some pieces of the ribbing into the pulley grooves, belt was not a pretty sight either!
Anyway, glad to be back in the land of the living -
It looks like I have the same problem. I started noticing a squeal on cold starts and after changing the belts and the idler pulley it persisted.
I have done the paint test which showed the central pulley is slipping. The two outer rings and the crank were still aligned.
I am leaning towards a repair as it would have a lifetime warranty and I know it will fit back on without a problem, but I would either have to buy the tools or loan them out twice from O'Reilley's or Autozone.
It would be great to get some advice on a preferred fix.
As time goes by I'm becoming increasingly inclined to rebuild/repair existing parts when possible. The quality of replacement parts is becoming a real hit-n-miss thing nowadays, IMO
Thanks for getting back on this. I am coming round to the same idea, it seems the re-build materials are longer lasting and more stable over time that the original rubber that was used. Offering a lifetime warranty seems to corroborate this.
They have the following price which comes in a lot cheaper that a new part even with shipping.
1995 - 1997 Jaguar XJ-6 harmonic balancer ($ 190)
I will have to plan for the car to be off the road for a couple of weeks, but it's probably the best way forward.
I just marked my harmonic balancer and it seems I am out of sync. I live in Kampala. I wonder if it is possible to interchange another car's harmonic balancer onto the x300... I will be grateful for any insights on this. Otherwise, if I have to go the rebuild route, shipping and taxes may make this a USD 500-700 job. I will be grateful for any insights and tips. I have attached my marks in the picture to show the out of sync marks.
Julius
After a discussion with the wife we (she) has decided to go with a new replacement as being without the car for a week or two would be too much to bear.
I will arrange to have the original rebuilt and put into storage (for when the new one eventually fails).
I am considering options to break the crank bolt, I like the idea of using a chain wrench as I don't have an impact gun. Will see if I can get a loaner one.
The part is now ordered and should be here in 5 days.
Last edited by Nobeel Masri; 04-15-2021 at 06:35 PM.
I used the 'crank the engine to undo' method to undo the crank bolt and it worked just fine. The engine runs in the undo direction so you get the correct socket and a long handle fit it up and have the handle end rest on the ground under the car then with the IGN fuse removed crank the engine and the bolt should undo.
You'll need something to hold the pulley when you torque the bolt back up such as in Lawrene's post above. Put a thick sheet of cardboard against the radiator so you don't accidentally damage it.
Thanks, I have been reading up on the 'crank the engine to undo' method and I'm apprehensive as it's my first time, but it seems to be a good way to go.
Looking at Lawrence's setup, I would need to pick up some 1/8 or 1/4 inch steel bar, Ace have them for around $10, plus bolts and washers.
I was wondering though, if I get the steel bar and have it braced to the pulley, couldn't that be used to undo the bolt in the first place?
Last edited by Nobeel Masri; 04-16-2021 at 10:52 PM.
Hi guys, yes you could use the bar to lock the pulley and undo the big bolt and if you feel safer, for sure do it that way. Using the bump starter method is really quick though and works like a charm. I was also apprehensive of using this method but it really works well.
I suggest you try it for yourself. Also, I'd cut a piece of 1/8" luan plywood doorskin to shape in order to protect the rad because it's really easy to give it a bang.
I am now in limbo waiting for the part to arrive, it has been shipped but the tracking shows no updates for 5 days, so it's now a waiting game.
Decided to go ahead and remove the old harmonic balancer and after lots of positive vibes from the forum, I went with the 'crank no start' method, after removing the 'Old No.7' fuse for the fuel pump and the fan shroud.
For some reason I imagined it would struggle to break the bolt and somehow stress anything connected to the crankshaft. I was wrong and the bolt broke loose on the first crank from the starter. Once the bolt was out, the HB was easily removed by hand with a bit of a wiggle, so no puller tool required.
The old HB can be twisted a little and you can hear the rubber inside creaking. Along with the mis-matched paint marks makes no doubt about it's failure.
I also checked the bearing seal behind the HB and it is dry as a bone, so I am happy that it doesn't need replacing.
So now, I'm twiddling my thumbs wondering what to do while I wait for the replacement.
Thinking its a good opportunity to clean up the front of the engine as it has collected a lot of dirt and grime over the years.
Thanks to you all for the reassurance on breaking the bolt loose.
08-06-2019, 01:11 AM
Update
