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Regarding setting the drive cycle, it’s not so much the distance driven, but the way it’s been driven (does that make sense).
Have a look here. https://www.obd-codes.com/jaguar-drive-cycle
A lot of idling involved!
The “new” style top tensioner has a sort of rounded end with an arrow moulded in to it, it does not have any adjustment, unlike the original tensioner which did.
you will find numerous threads in here concerning chain rattle at start up, which plagues the engine, but doesn’t seem to cause any serious problems beyond momentary irritation on the first start of the day.
The chain slap I suspect you are experiencing is a different matter, and relates to wear on the chain guides and the lower chain tensioner. Replacement requires removal of the timing cover, and is not a 5 minute job.
However, a bit like the top chain tensioner, there does not appear to be a lot of history of this chain slap causing problems. Certainly, when I had it, there were no codes thrown.
If I have understood the current situation correctly, you no longer have actual knock sensor codes, and the pending codes are not contributing to a check engine light. The only issues which stand between you and getting the car legal are the Cat and Evap “reset” issues, which I would confess, I do not understand.
could you possibly walk us slowly through what it is that you mean?
The spark plug gaskets you ordered will work....I think. I know the camcover gasket will be too long. It will work initially, but it will fail you soon.
you will have to bite the Bullet and buy an OEM gasket for too much money. URO branded spark plug gaskets have worked in the past for me. I’ve tried all of the aftermarket camcover gaskets....wish I had better news
Can you confirm for me that you have not yet replaced any of the knock sensors?
Also, the wire for the the knock sensors are shielded. If the ground end of the shield is bad, then that might be the issue.
Hello Everyone,
I didn't have much time to work on the car today, but I stopped by a shop in town called British Sports Cars and told a guy name Tyler the issue I am having. I also asked him about my odd B30F4 and P13B0 codes that come up with my car as pending and he offered to scan in with their computer to see if these codes also display on theirs. So I went and picked up my car. No codes present on my scanner so I drove it on the freeway and after about 15 minutes the two codes B30F4 and P13B0 came up as pending. So I went straight to their shop without shutting of the car. Tyler scanned the car with their scanner and these codes don't show for him. His scanner is a lot more sophisticated and there are two codes that come up with the dash console, but he said they have nothing to do with the ECU. He said according to his scanner there is nothing wrong with the car and that I just need to drive it to get the monitors to set. He also cautioned me that he has another girl in our town that has the same car a 1997 xj6 who has been driving her car around for 4 months and the all monitors still haven't set. That was concerning. However, I do feel like computers and cars are logical and there must be a reason the ECU won't set the (EVAP and CAT) monitors as ready.
So, currently I have put on about 200 miles since I last disconnected the battery to do the frequency measurements with b1mcp. Vee, I have changed both the knock sensors, but the knock sensor codes came back after that (P0326 and P0332). Also, I am not sure what you mean by the ground end of the wire when you were speaking about the shielding. The ECU memory got cleared about a week ago when I disconnected the battery to test the frequency and resistances of the sensor circuits through the ECU harness. That day I also filled up the coolant reservoir as it was suggested that this could be a source of the codes. I have driven about 200 miles since then. I have been expecting the knock sensor codes to return but they haven't yet. (Typically they came back within 100 miles before on about 4 previous ECU reset cycles). Since then I have added new plugs and done an oil change and discovered oil above some of the spark plugs, especially on #1 which has a new coil on it.
In order for me to take the car in for an emissions inspection in CA I need the ECU to say that it's ready by having the monitors set. Currently the CAT and EVAP monitors haven't set and I don't know why. Until about 5 days ago the issue was the knock sensor codes were causing a check engine light (immediate smog fail in CA) so I was focussed on that. Now I am not as certain that they will come back on. They have never taken so long to return suggesting the issue might have been low coolant levels.
Countyjag, once the ECU computer memory is cleared (by unplugging the battery or using a code reader) the codes etc are all gone. The car then needs to be driven in order for the ECU to be able to test each of the monitoring systems. There are recommended driving cycles for getting the monitors to set(https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...itor-Readiness OR here https://www.obd-codes.com/jaguar-drive-cycle). Most of the monitors on my car get set within 50 miles. EVAP and CAT have never set since I have owned it and I have definately done the CAT drive cycle outlined in the links. I don't know what is holding them back. I will try the drive cycles as Pete suggested, but I don't have a computer capable of observing the EVAP system valves. Hopefully the knock codes stay off and the weird pending codes that only seem to show up on my computer don't matter. If I can get the monitors to set then I can go and do a smog test and register the car. It is currently registered to me as non-operational meaning it isn't legal to drive or park it on public streets.
Last month I was having trouble with an older lexus, but the ECU was throwing a CAT inefficiency code. I replaced one of the exhaust manifolds that had a built in CAT and then the monitors set and the car passed smog.
Ok, thanks for that. To summarise then, the problem you are currently facing no longer has anything to do with the knock sensors.
The Cat and EVAP monitors will not reset. As you have identified from your lexus experience, this can be a problem with the electrics / sensors, or the underlying systems themselves. What have you done to check the performance of these systems? Do you know if they are interlinked, in the same way as the ABS and Traction control systems are, ie 1 fault screws both? We dont have EVAP here in the UK, so I cant offer any insight on that, but in connection with exhaust related problems, these cars are known for cracked manifolds and leaks around the manifold to downpipe flange which screw up emissions readings. Also mis-connecting the O2 sensor connectors (swapping them round) is easily done. Have you checked your fuel trims to make sure the car goes into closed loop quickly (you dont need to drive it, just run it)
When you reseal your cam cover, look and see if the chain tensioner is engaged with the slot proper and extended outward a bit. You should not be able to push tensioner piston back in if the piston inside is engaged to it's thumbwheel proper. Also look at the chain rail between the two sprockets underneath to check tightness of attachment bolts. Rotate engine by hand until the two cam timing slots are exactly upward, Then check to see if the circle lines up with the round window in the cam position sensor please.
Ok, thanks for that. To summarise then, the problem you are currently facing no longer has anything to do with the knock sensors.
The Cat and EVAP monitors will not reset. As you have identified from your lexus experience, this can be a problem with the electrics / sensors, or the underlying systems themselves. What have you done to check the performance of these systems? Do you know if they are interlinked, in the same way as the ABS and Traction control systems are, ie 1 fault screws both? We dont have EVAP here in the UK, so I cant offer any insight on that, but in connection with exhaust related problems, these cars are known for cracked manifolds and leaks around the manifold to downpipe flange which screw up emissions readings. Also mis-connecting the O2 sensor connectors (swapping them round) is easily done. Have you checked your fuel trims to make sure the car goes into closed loop quickly (you dont need to drive it, just run it)
I can't be sure that the problem doesn't have anything to do with the knock sensors because I have read that the signal from the knock sensors is used with data from the camshaft position sensor to adjust the spark timing. I can confirm that the check engine light has yet to come on and that the knock sensor codes that are currently gone. This has lasted for about 200 miles of driving (both city and highway). The car does go into closed loop fairly quickly and the live data shows the O2 voltages fluctuating and the heated oxygen sensor monitor has set. Thank you for the cracked manifolds comment. I will inspect the exhaust manifold.
Larry, I will try this with the upper timing chain tensioner and I will check that the CPS is lined up. Thanks again.
Thanks Larry,
I am not ready to jump into the timing chain, but I really enjoyed his writing and will use that thread as a guide when I am ready to work on the timing chain. I drove another 100 miles today and still no knock sensor codes, but not CAT or EVAP monitors setting, and the car has no error codes. The pending codes the Jag specialist thought were actually just two consul module codes he could see. He also had air conditioning faults showing up on his computer, but he said they don't influence the ECM. I don't know what to think.
I might try switching the two oxygen sensors, but shouldn't I be getting CAT inefficiency codes if they were switched? I think I need to go around the engine little by little and inspect everything. Cracked hoses, fluid levels, leaks, etc. There are no error codes to give me hints.
I might try switching the two oxygen sensors, but shouldn't I be getting CAT inefficiency codes if they were switched?
Based on the Freeze Frame data in your Original Post, the O2 sensors are definitely NOT connected the wrong way around. If they were, your STFT would be about +24 on one bank and -24 on the other.
Success! I followed the recommendations from a different thread that are attached here(see below). After lots of slow driving and idling my CAT monitor finally set! This morning I took the car for the CA emissions inspection and passed. Right now I am sitting in line at the DMV about to register my first Jag. I am very happy. Also, my valve cover and plug gaskets are in and I will be installing them today. I will attempt to summarize this thread below in case others have similar problems.
I bought this car for a good price because the check engine light was on and the previous owner didn't want to pay to have it fixed. My Innova OBD2 scanner picked up the following codes P0332 and P0326 which were causing a check engine light (CEL). It also picked up pending codes P13B0 and B30F4 which from other threads nobody seems to know what these mean. Had I just done the normal maintenance you should do on a new vehicle like changing and checking fluids etc, I probably could have fixed this quicker. I instead, focused on the code reader stuff and bought unnecessary sensors (one O2 and two knock sensors). All of my original sensors were probably fine...but in the end I learned some new things. Here is a summary:
First, let me address the knock codes. I bought two knock sensors and replaced my originals. This seems not to have affected the knock code and after about 80 highway miles the codes returned. With the help of other forum members I thoroughly tested the wires and had the same resistances from the ECU harness the through the knock sensor harnesses as directly through the sensor pins. All four sensors I own had resistances between 0.97 and 1.0 Mohms. B1MCP made a post above suggesting a possible cause of the knock sensor code could be low coolant levels. I recalled seeing the coolant light come on once so I topped up my coolant level by adding maybe 2.5 to 3.0 L of water. The check engine light and knock sensor codes never returned. I couldn't think of a good reason that coolant level would affect the knock sensors, but a mechanic at the smog inspection station suggested that the water dampens the vibrations from the engine. As a physicist, I realize that an unfilled radiator or coolant pathway also probably changes the frequency signals by changing the resonance spectrum of the engine. I am not sure if this is what has happened but my best guess is that the cause of the knock sensor codes and CEL light was low coolant levels.
Second, I want to discuss the pending B30F4 and P13B0 codes because there are several threads related to them and they seem to come in pairs. These codes do not seem to matter for steering the ECU and I don't believe they come from the engine control module. I believe they are unique to my Innova reader. I am not sure what exactly is the cause of these codes and they still show on and off on my Innova code readers 3100 and 3180. While they were showing with the engine running I went to a Jaguar specialist and we switched from my reader to their very sophisticated computer which was able to communicate with all of the cars modules and view any historical faults. I have three modules that have registered faults. He said all cars even fully functional will show some. My driver's seat control module gave some faults(it works perfectly) my air conditioner module gave some faults (AC doesn't work), and my dash consul gave two low voltage faults ( it seems to work perfectly). So perhaps those pending codes are related to one of those things. Their computer said their were no ECU codes or faults pending or present while my code reader was showing the P13B0 and B30F4 codes as pending. The technician said he thought my code reader was grabbing and codes passed through the ECU. So that is my best guess as to those pending codes. They don't seem to matter. For completion I will also add that somebody in the past cut the wires for my electrochromic rear view mirror.
Finally a huge thank you to all of you for your suggestions on this forum. Now to fix the leaky valve cover and address the annoying timing chain noise. My number is next up at DMV and I will have a legal beautiful XJ6! Details below.
Nathan
My pretty Ghanian wife w our "new" car
Last edited by nheston; 11-01-2019 at 12:48 PM.
Reason: Fixed errors
10-28-2019, 03:06 PM
Early Thread on timing chains and tensioners.
