Help! My jaguar is dead...
#1
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Hi, I am new here and in the jaguar world. I have a hand-me down Jaguar 1995 XJ6, a little over 148 000 km on the odometer.
I took the car this morning for an errand and it was running fine. I tried to start it about one hour later to go somewhere else, nothing. Not a clic, not a sound. it is like it does not even try to start. The battery is brand new (jaguar). When I turn the key - which has been reprogrammed recently - into the first position, I can put the windows down, the radio works, the beams work, the automatic seats work, but no lights on the dash light up. The car is properly in the "park" position.
It is raining like crazy here but inside the hood it is dry.
Input?
I can also add that I do not master the "car jargon" ... so be gentle...Thanks in advance for your help. I would like to look a bit educated when I show up at the garage...
I took the car this morning for an errand and it was running fine. I tried to start it about one hour later to go somewhere else, nothing. Not a clic, not a sound. it is like it does not even try to start. The battery is brand new (jaguar). When I turn the key - which has been reprogrammed recently - into the first position, I can put the windows down, the radio works, the beams work, the automatic seats work, but no lights on the dash light up. The car is properly in the "park" position.
It is raining like crazy here but inside the hood it is dry.
Input?
I can also add that I do not master the "car jargon" ... so be gentle...Thanks in advance for your help. I would like to look a bit educated when I show up at the garage...
#2
#4
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OK, you are new, so welcome.
the X300 as yours is known in Jaguar world is one of the most reliable, sooooooo, lets start at the basics.
The battery has been recently replaced, so i would start there. Ensure ALL the cables are intact and tight, and CLEAN.
I know "stuff" works, but NO ignition circuit, and hence NO starter activity, no "christmas" lights on the dash panel, right?.
After the battery check, comes the "ignition relays", of which there are many on the car. There are some in the boot (trunk if must) near the battery, and may have been disturbed when the battery was changed?.
The electrical section of the ignition switch may be getting hissy with age and use, although not known as "common" yet. Make sure you have distinctive switch positions as you rotate teh key.
#0 is OFF
#1 is accessories (radio, windows, etc)
#2 is ignition (as above + dash lights and fuel pump whir)
#3 is start (self explanatory I reckon)
If that switch feels "odd" as you rotate the key, then that electrical section may well be the culprit. It is very common on the earlier cars, and the basic design has not changed since the '70's.
I know the battery is NEW, but using a volt meter, make sure it is fully charged, about 12.6V is deemed fully charged.
Above all DONT PANIC, that really will solve nothing. A systematic approach is the only sensible way. I drink, a little, that keeps me calm in these situations, your choice haha.
the X300 as yours is known in Jaguar world is one of the most reliable, sooooooo, lets start at the basics.
The battery has been recently replaced, so i would start there. Ensure ALL the cables are intact and tight, and CLEAN.
I know "stuff" works, but NO ignition circuit, and hence NO starter activity, no "christmas" lights on the dash panel, right?.
After the battery check, comes the "ignition relays", of which there are many on the car. There are some in the boot (trunk if must) near the battery, and may have been disturbed when the battery was changed?.
The electrical section of the ignition switch may be getting hissy with age and use, although not known as "common" yet. Make sure you have distinctive switch positions as you rotate teh key.
#0 is OFF
#1 is accessories (radio, windows, etc)
#2 is ignition (as above + dash lights and fuel pump whir)
#3 is start (self explanatory I reckon)
If that switch feels "odd" as you rotate the key, then that electrical section may well be the culprit. It is very common on the earlier cars, and the basic design has not changed since the '70's.
I know the battery is NEW, but using a volt meter, make sure it is fully charged, about 12.6V is deemed fully charged.
Above all DONT PANIC, that really will solve nothing. A systematic approach is the only sensible way. I drink, a little, that keeps me calm in these situations, your choice haha.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 06-14-2013 at 02:20 AM.
#5
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poshaccent, like the others have said, welcome to the forums. I am sure we can take care of you. So, sit back, relax and we can help you as much as we can.
Now, for your problem. What I would tell you to do is to get to the car and leave the driver's door open and then attempt to start the car. As you turn the key, watch the dome light. It should dim slightly if things are working correctly. If the light goes out completely, then you have something dropping all the voltage (either a bad cell in the battery or you have a cable issue most likely). If the light remains really bright, then your starter is not getting the signal to start. At that point, you will need to start looking at the control signal (ie, ignition switch, computer, relay to the starter solenoid, etc).
Do this first check so we can start eliminating things and then we can narrow things down for you. I could give you a step by step covering every possibility, but you would get lost in trying to keep up with where you are in all the writing.
Now, for your problem. What I would tell you to do is to get to the car and leave the driver's door open and then attempt to start the car. As you turn the key, watch the dome light. It should dim slightly if things are working correctly. If the light goes out completely, then you have something dropping all the voltage (either a bad cell in the battery or you have a cable issue most likely). If the light remains really bright, then your starter is not getting the signal to start. At that point, you will need to start looking at the control signal (ie, ignition switch, computer, relay to the starter solenoid, etc).
Do this first check so we can start eliminating things and then we can narrow things down for you. I could give you a step by step covering every possibility, but you would get lost in trying to keep up with where you are in all the writing.
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Jhartz (06-16-2013)
#6
#7
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Reporting...
I got into my car and left the door opened. The dome light was very bright. I turned the key to the 1, 2 position, still very bright (I waited a bit in between to see if there was any change). Then to the 3rd position and the light went off completely.
I forgot to mention something. Yesterday when I was poking everywhere to find all these fuses (the thousand of fuses...), water came pouring from behind the dash on both sides of the car. It had been raining heavily for 2 days and the car was not in a garage. Could this be related?
I got into my car and left the door opened. The dome light was very bright. I turned the key to the 1, 2 position, still very bright (I waited a bit in between to see if there was any change). Then to the 3rd position and the light went off completely.
I forgot to mention something. Yesterday when I was poking everywhere to find all these fuses (the thousand of fuses...), water came pouring from behind the dash on both sides of the car. It had been raining heavily for 2 days and the car was not in a garage. Could this be related?
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#8
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Posh, that can lead to a lot of things. Computers and water do not mix well together. From what you are describing, I think the next check is to connect a multimeter across the battery and see what the voltage does as you start the car. Having a second person to help will be beneficial in this case.
What you want to do is to get your hands on a multimeter (doesn't need to be fancy). Touch the red probe to the "+" post (not the bracket that the wire is connected to) and the black probe to the "-" post with the multimeter set to VDC. You should be seeing a reading of 12.6 VDC (make sure all the doors are shut, otherwise the voltage reading will be 12.5 VDC. If the voltage is not 12.6 VDC, then your battery is not fully charged and that is atleast part of your problem. Once you have the battery fully charged and the probes on the battery terminals, attempt to start the car. What was the voltage as the ignition switch was placed in the 3rd position (Start position)? If the voltage remained at 12.6 VDC, then your problem lies with the switch side of the starting circuit. If the voltage dropped to under 10.0 VDC, then you have a bad battery. if the voltage dropped to 11.5 to 12.4 VDC, you most likely have a bad battery cable that is dropping most of your power and not allowing the starter to roll the motor. If the voltage was right around 11.0 VDC, then odds are your starter is toast and you need a new starter.
If your problem is the starting circuit, let me know and I will give you some basic checks to do to see where the problem lies.
What you want to do is to get your hands on a multimeter (doesn't need to be fancy). Touch the red probe to the "+" post (not the bracket that the wire is connected to) and the black probe to the "-" post with the multimeter set to VDC. You should be seeing a reading of 12.6 VDC (make sure all the doors are shut, otherwise the voltage reading will be 12.5 VDC. If the voltage is not 12.6 VDC, then your battery is not fully charged and that is atleast part of your problem. Once you have the battery fully charged and the probes on the battery terminals, attempt to start the car. What was the voltage as the ignition switch was placed in the 3rd position (Start position)? If the voltage remained at 12.6 VDC, then your problem lies with the switch side of the starting circuit. If the voltage dropped to under 10.0 VDC, then you have a bad battery. if the voltage dropped to 11.5 to 12.4 VDC, you most likely have a bad battery cable that is dropping most of your power and not allowing the starter to roll the motor. If the voltage was right around 11.0 VDC, then odds are your starter is toast and you need a new starter.
If your problem is the starting circuit, let me know and I will give you some basic checks to do to see where the problem lies.
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Jhartz (06-16-2013)
#9
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Check the inertia switch. On 97 xj6 located behind passenger scoff panel. The wires can be jumpered to get you home, but you lose all safety features like turning off the fuel pump in a collision. switch can get out of adjustment or hitting a bump can lose contact and all dash Christmas lights go out, engine wont start but battery will be good.
#10
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Its been a long time since I was on the forum but I feel its important that I give answers to the questions and advice you guys gave me.
1) My Jaguar is Dead #1 2013 - As Arch said , the original problem to my question was the Inertial Switch. I found it behind the plastic wall on the passenger footwell and pressed it. Presto it started. Technically as a lady I am not supposed to go this far so I made my husband do it and feed me grapes. Worked like a charm.
![Icon Sultan](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sultan.gif)
2) My Jaguar is Dead #2 2014- I didn't post this but I had a situation where the car would not start even though I had all the bells and whistles, but we noticed the security system didn't double "beep". When the key was turned nothing would go past the Christmas tree lights turning on. After that not a click or make any noise. No cranking. The tow truck found the battery was perfect. My husband went through all the fuses until he noticed the rear fuse box #5, the security systems 10amp fuse looked goo, but he replaced it anyway, was covered with a protective cap that hid it from view ... he replaced it and Voila, the security system allowed the car to be started. Miracle ... .10 cent fix.
3) Now for something completely new for 2015: Today the car cranks but won't start. The difference this time is that the dash voltmeter showed it was at 11.5 volts at position II but dipped to 9.5 when the key was turned to position II. The car cranks but no start. Funny enough the Ignition warning light (Red battery shaped light) came on and stayed on when the key was turned. That can't be good so... we started checking with the battery which we thought was dead. Nope, perfectly good and charged up. We started checking all of the relays and fuses ... all appear good. Still no start-up. Finally we checked the inertia switch ... nuttin.
So the big change is the red warning light stays on after all the others go off and until we shut power off and pull out the key. The manual says this is an alternator problem but only when the car is running (and should be checked!). But the car is not staring ... soooo
So whats to check boys? I await your fonts of knowledge.
1) My Jaguar is Dead #1 2013 - As Arch said , the original problem to my question was the Inertial Switch. I found it behind the plastic wall on the passenger footwell and pressed it. Presto it started. Technically as a lady I am not supposed to go this far so I made my husband do it and feed me grapes. Worked like a charm.
![Icon Sultan](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sultan.gif)
2) My Jaguar is Dead #2 2014- I didn't post this but I had a situation where the car would not start even though I had all the bells and whistles, but we noticed the security system didn't double "beep". When the key was turned nothing would go past the Christmas tree lights turning on. After that not a click or make any noise. No cranking. The tow truck found the battery was perfect. My husband went through all the fuses until he noticed the rear fuse box #5, the security systems 10amp fuse looked goo, but he replaced it anyway, was covered with a protective cap that hid it from view ... he replaced it and Voila, the security system allowed the car to be started. Miracle ... .10 cent fix.
3) Now for something completely new for 2015: Today the car cranks but won't start. The difference this time is that the dash voltmeter showed it was at 11.5 volts at position II but dipped to 9.5 when the key was turned to position II. The car cranks but no start. Funny enough the Ignition warning light (Red battery shaped light) came on and stayed on when the key was turned. That can't be good so... we started checking with the battery which we thought was dead. Nope, perfectly good and charged up. We started checking all of the relays and fuses ... all appear good. Still no start-up. Finally we checked the inertia switch ... nuttin.
So the big change is the red warning light stays on after all the others go off and until we shut power off and pull out the key. The manual says this is an alternator problem but only when the car is running (and should be checked!). But the car is not staring ... soooo
So whats to check boys? I await your fonts of knowledge.
#11
#12
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I've moved your thread from General Tech Help to X300 forum. This is the place for tech questions about your model.
Graham
#13
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Hi Posh.
Non starting could be Crank Sensor, had this recently on my car.
Was told by a mate to see if the Rev counter `bounced` when I cranked it, what that means is does the Rev counter needle move off the stop just a little bit?
Mine didnt move when cranking so I changed sensor & Hey Presto! The Old Lady sprang into life.
Videos on You Tube of how to fix so if Hubby is a bit handy I suspect he could fix it.
Non starting could be Crank Sensor, had this recently on my car.
Was told by a mate to see if the Rev counter `bounced` when I cranked it, what that means is does the Rev counter needle move off the stop just a little bit?
Mine didnt move when cranking so I changed sensor & Hey Presto! The Old Lady sprang into life.
Videos on You Tube of how to fix so if Hubby is a bit handy I suspect he could fix it.
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