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have you used starter fluid in the intake to confirm you have ignition?
Cleaned the face of the CKPS of grime thowing off yor timing ?
The Camshaft postion sensor ( CMPS code P0340 ) comes into play on the starting sequence but the engine will start with the Cam sensor connector removed, just more starter rotations
have you used starter fluid in the intake to confirm you have ignition?
Cleaned the face of the CKPS of grime thowing off yor timing ?
The Camshaft postion sensor ( CMPS code P0340 ) comes into play on the starting sequence but the engine will start with the Cam sensor connector removed, just more starter rotations
I did just try starting with starter fluid and engine does not fire. So something inhibits ignition?
The ignition coils have power " sitting " on them and the ECU provides a individual timed ground
The power sitting on the coils come from fuse # 12 , this is different than the fuel injectors.
The ECU is powered by 2 sources fuse # 12 and Z with Z being the large # 5 relay as it is controlled by the ECU and brings power back into the ECU
So the large relay # 5 powers the ECU , some engine sensors and the fuel injectors but not the ignition coils ,the ECU is needed to provide grounds for both the injectors and coils
Pic coming and notice the finger pointing at the tie point
The first power to the ECU is point 32 double hash on the right side of the print which is fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box.... this is your power sitting on the coils
in order that the fuse be powered it must have the relay in the corner of the fuse box close controlled by the ignition switch providing a ground on through that pin 5 of the ignition switch connector
To test the small relay closing have the key in the run position and remove the relay , it should click in your fingers back to the open position
It can be swapped with the same relay in the left engine bay fuse box as in reality the left only controls the car horn
I think we have established that the car is immobilised (or at least the ECU thinks it is). That's why it won't start.
I think your next step should be to test all of the circuits for continuity (resistance) between the key barrel (coil), the Reader/Exciter module, the Security module and back to the ECU. I still think this may be due to a damaged cable (given that you could previously start the car by pulling on cables)
I've extracted what I think are the relevant pages from the manuals (and annotated them a little) in to the document attached. Test all of the connections shown end to end. We are trying to eliminate any broken or damaged cables as a cause of your problem. Also check power and ground at the indicated pins on the modules. I think this is as far as you can go with basic tools. If all of these check out OK then more sophisticated tools would be required.
the fuel pump control / enable comes in the form of a ground to close the fuel pump relay
this ground is provided by the engine ECU either by seeing the ignition switch trigger for the first 3 seconds or the CKPS for the duration of your drive
The engine ECU can and possibly be blocked from providing the ground by the immobilization section
the inertia / crash switch involved can be thought of as a independent section different from the immobilization section
your lack of ignition observation could be the engine ECU being inhibited by the immobilization section
I think we have established that the car is immobilised (or at least the ECU thinks it is). That's why it won't start.
I think your next step should be to test all of the circuits for continuity (resistance) between the key barrel (coil), the Reader/Exciter module, the Security module and back to the ECU. I still think this may be due to a damaged cable (given that you could previously start the car by pulling on cables)
I've extracted what I think are the relevant pages from the manuals (and annotated them a little) in to the document attached. Test all of the connections shown end to end. We are trying to eliminate any broken or damaged cables as a cause of your problem. Also check power and ground at the indicated pins on the modules. I think this is as far as you can go with basic tools. If all of these check out OK then more sophisticated tools would be required.
Thank you for this. I will update when Iv'e tested more next time I'm in the garage.
I think we have established that the car is immobilised (or at least the ECU thinks it is). That's why it won't start.
I think your next step should be to test all of the circuits for continuity (resistance) between the key barrel (coil), the Reader/Exciter module, the Security module and back to the ECU. I still think this may be due to a damaged cable (given that you could previously start the car by pulling on cables)
I've extracted what I think are the relevant pages from the manuals (and annotated them a little) in to the document attached. Test all of the connections shown end to end. We are trying to eliminate any broken or damaged cables as a cause of your problem. Also check power and ground at the indicated pins on the modules. I think this is as far as you can go with basic tools. If all of these check out OK then more sophisticated tools would be required.
Today I tested the resistance on all the cables from the barrel coil to the Exciter to the SCLM. According to the diagram ( Fig 1 page 6 on your pdf) the exciter should have 8 pins with cables yet i only have 6, no ground (black) and no SU (Slate Blue). Is it something i am misunderstanding? I will attach a photo of my connector and an annotated diagram of what I've measured and not.
I also checked faults with an obd2 scanner today. I got the P1791 code. I guess this is what the new warning light is about. Does this have to do with the TPS? Does it have relation to the main issue or not? I have gotten this once before while the car was immobilised but after starting it went away.
I'm going to say the ground is important as the other wires carrying a sensitive signal and it's processing inside the box is as well sensitive and the ground serves to protect the signals or in the circuit lines of functionality inside
I'm assuming you have the black wire present in the connector and can provide a car frame ground point
The oroginal ground point may be compromised or disturbed by working under the dash
Your lower Slate / Blue wire probably goes back to the trunk through a couple of connectors not shown but most likely the big BT - 4 connector above the fuel tank
There should be a tie wrap on the lock bar to ensure the connector is seated
The trough wall connector has some sheet metal layers cutout so it can seat but the cutout can still get in the way
It can be a pain to reconnect, and you have to not break the lock over bar pins