Interior Door Trims
#1
Interior Door Trims
As well as my mechanical jobs Im also working through the trim I need replacing.
The interior door trim, front drivers has been damaged with a screwdriver near the door realease, the rear side side looks cracked maybe through slamming the door
Ive just won a set of 4 trims on fleabay for a tenner whats the easiest way to get the old ones off without damaging them anymore and the rest of the door trim
The interior door trim, front drivers has been damaged with a screwdriver near the door realease, the rear side side looks cracked maybe through slamming the door
Ive just won a set of 4 trims on fleabay for a tenner whats the easiest way to get the old ones off without damaging them anymore and the rest of the door trim
#2
Door trim removal
I'm sure this has been done before, but hey, let's do it again. This applies to the front doors, but I'm assuming there isn't a whole lot of difference with the rears, and is relevant to the x300 (97).
So, firstly, pry the little square insert out from behind the door pull, easy to do as it has a little access slot. Remove the screw holding the door pull trim in place and remove same. The door pull itself stays put! Then slide the wood trim towards the front of the car, lifting it slightly at the front, to help clear the door pull. This trim is held in place by two spring type clips, fitted to the trim itself, evident upon removal. (These clips can be depressed slightly before reassembly just to ensure a snug, rattle free fit). Check just under the bottom part of the rubber air duct on the door for another screw, (the duct that feeds warm air into the door from the side of the dash) After removing the above/ wood trim, you will have exposed 3 (I think) screws which must be removed.The top section of the door card should now lift up and off and the bottom section can be prised off by using a broad, flat blade/ wooden spatula works for me, working around the edges, to pop the snap on studs open. Start at the bottom as they are usually loose there anyway and it avoids having the door card hanging down from the top also. When you have lifted the card clear, disconnect any electrical plugs you find, as in, window switches, puddle light and speaker connections.No harm to peel back the plastic membrane and insulation to clean inside the door if needed, checking any drain holes are clear and maybe seal the inside of the door bottom with grease or similar. A little lube on any moving parts of the window mechanism wouldn't go astray either.Refitting is a reversal of removal and each door should take less than ten minutes to remove.
Hope this helps.
So, firstly, pry the little square insert out from behind the door pull, easy to do as it has a little access slot. Remove the screw holding the door pull trim in place and remove same. The door pull itself stays put! Then slide the wood trim towards the front of the car, lifting it slightly at the front, to help clear the door pull. This trim is held in place by two spring type clips, fitted to the trim itself, evident upon removal. (These clips can be depressed slightly before reassembly just to ensure a snug, rattle free fit). Check just under the bottom part of the rubber air duct on the door for another screw, (the duct that feeds warm air into the door from the side of the dash) After removing the above/ wood trim, you will have exposed 3 (I think) screws which must be removed.The top section of the door card should now lift up and off and the bottom section can be prised off by using a broad, flat blade/ wooden spatula works for me, working around the edges, to pop the snap on studs open. Start at the bottom as they are usually loose there anyway and it avoids having the door card hanging down from the top also. When you have lifted the card clear, disconnect any electrical plugs you find, as in, window switches, puddle light and speaker connections.No harm to peel back the plastic membrane and insulation to clean inside the door if needed, checking any drain holes are clear and maybe seal the inside of the door bottom with grease or similar. A little lube on any moving parts of the window mechanism wouldn't go astray either.Refitting is a reversal of removal and each door should take less than ten minutes to remove.
Hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
Car-Nut (02-10-2011)
#4
These are super instructions, well done
i'm sure this has been done before, but hey, let's do it again. This applies to the front doors, but i'm assuming there isn't a whole lot of difference with the rears, and is relevant to the x300 (97).
So, firstly, pry the little square insert out from behind the door pull, easy to do as it has a little access slot. Remove the screw holding the door pull trim in place and remove same. The door pull itself stays put! Then slide the wood trim towards the front of the car, lifting it slightly at the front, to help clear the door pull. This trim is held in place by two spring type clips, fitted to the trim itself, evident upon removal. (these clips can be depressed slightly before reassembly just to ensure a snug, rattle free fit). Check just under the bottom part of the rubber air duct on the door for another screw, (the duct that feeds warm air into the door from the side of the dash) after removing the above/ wood trim, you will have exposed 3 (i think) screws which must be removed.the top section of the door card should now lift up and off and the bottom section can be prised off by using a broad, flat blade/ wooden spatula works for me, working around the edges, to pop the snap on studs open. Start at the bottom as they are usually loose there anyway and it avoids having the door card hanging down from the top also. When you have lifted the card clear, disconnect any electrical plugs you find, as in, window switches, puddle light and speaker connections.no harm to peel back the plastic membrane and insulation to clean inside the door if needed, checking any drain holes are clear and maybe seal the inside of the door bottom with grease or similar. A little lube on any moving parts of the window mechanism wouldn't go astray either.refitting is a reversal of removal and each door should take less than ten minutes to remove.
Hope this helps.
So, firstly, pry the little square insert out from behind the door pull, easy to do as it has a little access slot. Remove the screw holding the door pull trim in place and remove same. The door pull itself stays put! Then slide the wood trim towards the front of the car, lifting it slightly at the front, to help clear the door pull. This trim is held in place by two spring type clips, fitted to the trim itself, evident upon removal. (these clips can be depressed slightly before reassembly just to ensure a snug, rattle free fit). Check just under the bottom part of the rubber air duct on the door for another screw, (the duct that feeds warm air into the door from the side of the dash) after removing the above/ wood trim, you will have exposed 3 (i think) screws which must be removed.the top section of the door card should now lift up and off and the bottom section can be prised off by using a broad, flat blade/ wooden spatula works for me, working around the edges, to pop the snap on studs open. Start at the bottom as they are usually loose there anyway and it avoids having the door card hanging down from the top also. When you have lifted the card clear, disconnect any electrical plugs you find, as in, window switches, puddle light and speaker connections.no harm to peel back the plastic membrane and insulation to clean inside the door if needed, checking any drain holes are clear and maybe seal the inside of the door bottom with grease or similar. A little lube on any moving parts of the window mechanism wouldn't go astray either.refitting is a reversal of removal and each door should take less than ten minutes to remove.
Hope this helps.
#5
Many thanks for taking the time to show your appreciation, but just a minor addition: As I was working from my (ever failing) memory, I neglected to mention the concealed screw in the door handle/armrest, which helps to keep the lower quarter of the door trim affixed. This screw is recessed at the front end of the armrest, on the bottom/underneath part. Easy peasy!
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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