Jaguar XJ Sport 1995 4L automatic

So it started with the car being up on a lift for about 1-2 weeks as i was fixing the brakes around the car. After i was done i simply put the car to the ground and tried to start the car.

When i tried to start the car i discovered that the battery was drained so i got my charger and got it fully loaded, still it didnt start. So i went and purchased a brand new battery and tried with that aswell, still not working.

The car cranks but wont stay on. So far i changed the fuel filter, pressed the inhertia switch, checked the light is glowing red on "P" Park. Released the pressure regulator and checking if im getting any fuel.

Also i did clean the engine bay with WD-40 and a microfiber cloth right after the brakes were done. I have no clue what it could be since i havent touch it more than fixing brakes and cleaning around the motor.

 

Won't stay on meaning it did start fer a second then died ?

 

Uploaded to youtube some videos of it.

Very strange after cranking sounds like this then dies:

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/6wA-xQuVIUs

This is how it sounds all the time:

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/g-ZnWOf...e=share&cbrd=1

Glowing red getting very hot to exhaust:

 

 

The ignition is out of the correct timing

The very front crankshaft position sensor connector dry ?

looking for a splice point inside the conduit

There is no splice on the CKPS wires

The hot spot on the exhaust is unburnt fuel leaving the cylinders hitting the hot Cat

 

So do i need to get a new sensor and it might work?

 

You may have water tracked down the engine regulation harness going along the top fuel rail going down to the ECU connectors wet

 

clean the 2 connection first

at the CKPS and the ECU

 

Hmm will have to check this tomorrow, is the ecu destroyed if the connectors wet or is it just to dry it up?

 

ECU if had gotten wet with a long term leak can be opened and flushed with isopropyl alcohol

 

Do you get the tachometer? If so doesn't mean the CKPS is good in all of its uses

on starter rotation it will be 300 RPMs

Asking for a friend

 

Greetings!

I been asking on this forum before https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...topped-264142/

And after this i replaced the following:
- Crank Shaft sensor
- Battery
- Checked all the fuses around the car
- Got new Spark Plugs
- Cleaned the throttle

I replaced the ECU from LNA1410GE/311 to LNA1410WB/311 and im not sure this could be the problem since i couldnt find a LNA1410GE/311 anywhere so i figured that maybe they are matching somewhat.
Still after all this it will not work, but it changed somewhat to the better.

Video was to long so i uploaded how it sounds here:
https://files.fm/f/6kb6gay2s

Anyone got any clue what can be the issue?

Kind regards
Adam

 

I'm assuming you have no codes.

The coils may either be miswired, or one (or more of them) may be dead. I would buy a set of new coils. It's not gonna be inexpensive.

You can buy cheap ones, but they wont last long, so perhaps that will be enough to use as a test? Do not buy used ones.

Only the two coils closest to the driver (furthest away from the front bumper) can be miswired. Can you swap these two (leave the coils, just use the plug for Coil 1 and plug it into Coil 2, and vice versa, leaving Coils 3-6 alone) and tell me what happens?

 

I would check the Intake air and coolant temp sensors, make sure the plugs, coils are clean and free of oil. Vee mentioned the coils, which are a problem area, the forum has a lot of coils.
I'd check the idle control valve is clean and working, while your at it make sure the throttle body looks clean and all air intake hoses are in good condition.All of which might need a good clean.
Another areas could be the crank shaft position sensor, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator.

 

Hi Adam,

I have merged your two threads so the complete account is together in one thread.

Vee's suggestion is very important - although on your engine the cylinders he is describing are numbered 5 and 6 (on the earlier engines they were 1 and 2). It is very easy to connect the wiring harness for the cylinder 6 coil to the the cylinder 5 coil, and vice versa.

Also check for cracked or missing insulation on the wires for the coils, especially at the rear of the engine where the harness bends dowward. It is common for the insulation on these wires to harden and crack and allow shorts that cause misfires.

As to Vee's other question, have you scanned the car for stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs)?

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi!

Thanks for taking your time to help me!
I have no DTCs code showing both on my hand scanner and my computer, also i tried to swap the 1th and 2th cylinder but i ended up just making it sounding worse than it was.
I did noticed that the harness at the back of the engine is very hard and almost dry but i have not checked further than to feel and look at it.

Also when taking out all the spark plugs they were very wet after i tried to crank the engine a few times (without using the gas pedal) though i have checked that every spark plug is working and they all gave clear sparks.

 

I tried to switch the first and secound but it only ended up in the engine almost not wanting to crank at all. Maybe i should try swap the two in the front the 5th and 6th coil?

 

Am a dummy in mechanics but have a few thoughts on this.
(1) Would rigorous cleaning around the engine accidentally dislocate any wires, caused any wire to erroneously touch ground or exposed some sensitive parts to water?
(2) Car actually cranks and starts almost every time, only could not stay on. Could it be fuel issue: fuel supply or fuel pump relayed?
(3) Did i see some black smoke from the exhaust? Would a fouled O2 sensor send confusing data to the ECU causing it to stall?

 

I used WD-40 cleaning around the engine, i already checked the pressure regulator and fuel pump and it works good.
While cranking there are some black smokes coming out but mostly white smoke smelling like fuel.

The first time i scanned i got error code: "02 Sensor Circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 2" but now after replacing ecu the code is gone..
Maybe it could be the 02 sensor, do you know which one it is before or after cat "bank 1 sensor 2"?

 

Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor, and it is the more important of the two, however, the car should run fine when cold. The engine wouldn't be using any data from the oxygen sensors until the car gets warmed up.

Can I assume that this problem with the car happens when you start the engine from cold?