Light bulb out instrument warning
#1
Light bulb out instrument warning
I decided to start a new post as this is Important guys.
In the previous post I found a license plate bulb burned out that solved my problem. However a friend with a 97 XJ6 is still having trouble with the bulb failure light being on in his car. And I mean ON all the time. Not just when he has the light switch ON. As soon as he turns the ignition switch On the fail light, left side third from the top, comes ON and stays ON. He has owned that car a little more than two years. The first year, no warning. The car then got hard to start. Thinking it might be the fuel pump he took it to a local specialist shop. They found the pump working fine but a fuel line was loose. Fixed that and no problem for about a week. Then the light came on along with the check engine light. I cleared the check engine light which indicated tract out and no problem since. But the bulb warning has stayed ever sense (no more check engine light). We have checked all bulbs that should be on and they are on. No bulbs have been replaced on the car under his ownership. Remember, it comes on with ignition switch ON. Light switch OFF or ON.
Guys and Gals we need a little help here.
In the previous post I found a license plate bulb burned out that solved my problem. However a friend with a 97 XJ6 is still having trouble with the bulb failure light being on in his car. And I mean ON all the time. Not just when he has the light switch ON. As soon as he turns the ignition switch On the fail light, left side third from the top, comes ON and stays ON. He has owned that car a little more than two years. The first year, no warning. The car then got hard to start. Thinking it might be the fuel pump he took it to a local specialist shop. They found the pump working fine but a fuel line was loose. Fixed that and no problem for about a week. Then the light came on along with the check engine light. I cleared the check engine light which indicated tract out and no problem since. But the bulb warning has stayed ever sense (no more check engine light). We have checked all bulbs that should be on and they are on. No bulbs have been replaced on the car under his ownership. Remember, it comes on with ignition switch ON. Light switch OFF or ON.
Guys and Gals we need a little help here.
#2
Other then the monitor inside the light control module which you can switch with your friend if the same part number . The 95's are different . You can clean the 4 - 13 pin connectors in the bottom corners under the car as well as the wiring condition under the plastic cover on the trunk's right hinge
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-17-2018 at 10:23 AM.
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EZDriver (03-18-2018)
#5
Hi EZDriver,
I assume you've checked the headlamp high beams, sidemarkers and side repeater lamps; have you also checked the front and rear fog lamp bulbs?
The lighting control module is built into the Body Processor Module (BPM), which are known to have problems; search the forum for possibilities.
Cheers,
Don
I assume you've checked the headlamp high beams, sidemarkers and side repeater lamps; have you also checked the front and rear fog lamp bulbs?
The lighting control module is built into the Body Processor Module (BPM), which are known to have problems; search the forum for possibilities.
Cheers,
Don
#6
Hi EZDriver,
I assume you've checked the headlamp high beams, sidemarkers and side repeater lamps; have you also checked the front and rear fog lamp bulbs?
The lighting control module is built into the Body Processor Module (BPM), which are known to have problems; search the forum for possibilities.
Cheers,
Don
I assume you've checked the headlamp high beams, sidemarkers and side repeater lamps; have you also checked the front and rear fog lamp bulbs?
The lighting control module is built into the Body Processor Module (BPM), which are known to have problems; search the forum for possibilities.
Cheers,
Don
#7
If you're certain all bulbs are working, are you certain all are the correct type specified by Jaguar? If a bulb is used with a filament resistance significantly different from the specified type, that can fool the bulb failure detection.
If you rule out all other possibilities, suspect a problem with the BPM. Failures are known. Search the forum for more information.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 03-19-2018 at 08:46 AM.
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EZDriver (03-20-2018)
Trending Topics
#8
I know the 1995 Driver's Handbook says the bulb failure warning monitors "switched on" circuits, but by the 1996 model year the Lighting Control Modules/Bulb Failure Modules were deleted and lighting and bulb monitoring were handled directly by the Body Processor Module (BPM). I may be mistaken, but I think that in the '96-'97 models the BPM monitors bulb continuity either continuously, whether or not a circuit is switched on, or for a brief "bulb check" period when the ignition is turned on. I know for certain the Instrument Cluster has a "bulb check" period for the warning lamps in the cluster, and this happens whenever the ignition is turned on. If I find time I'll see if I can find a description in the literature.
If you're certain all bulbs are working, are you certain all are the correct type specified by Jaguar? If a bulb is used with a filament resistance significantly different from the specified type, that can fool the bulb failure detection.
If you rule out all other possibilities, suspect a problem with the BPM. Failures are known. Search the forum for more information.
Cheers,
Don
If you're certain all bulbs are working, are you certain all are the correct type specified by Jaguar? If a bulb is used with a filament resistance significantly different from the specified type, that can fool the bulb failure detection.
If you rule out all other possibilities, suspect a problem with the BPM. Failures are known. Search the forum for more information.
Cheers,
Don
#10
Hi guys, sorry this is a bit late...
I have a 1996 X330 Daimler Double Six, V12 6 litre LWB saloon.
A short while ago, there was a problem with the brake light switch, which wouldn’t activate the gearstick lock, so I couldn’t get out of P. This was fixed, but the bulb out light started showing when the foot brake was pressed. All bulbs are working, none have been changed. Also, the left indicator flashed at double speed while the right one was normal. The main junction and earth were removed and cleaned. When put back, the indicators worked perfectly, but...the traction control light is now on, and the ABS light. The nearside passenger windows will not move now and this would seem to indicate a near side electrical problem. The light control module in the boot has been changed with one that is known to be working perfectly, so it’s not that.
Any ideas???
Cheers
Martin
I have a 1996 X330 Daimler Double Six, V12 6 litre LWB saloon.
A short while ago, there was a problem with the brake light switch, which wouldn’t activate the gearstick lock, so I couldn’t get out of P. This was fixed, but the bulb out light started showing when the foot brake was pressed. All bulbs are working, none have been changed. Also, the left indicator flashed at double speed while the right one was normal. The main junction and earth were removed and cleaned. When put back, the indicators worked perfectly, but...the traction control light is now on, and the ABS light. The nearside passenger windows will not move now and this would seem to indicate a near side electrical problem. The light control module in the boot has been changed with one that is known to be working perfectly, so it’s not that.
Any ideas???
Cheers
Martin
#11
On the ABS light you can remove the ABS connector and read the fundamental resistance of the wheel sensor wire pairs being about the same . As a functional test you would spin the wheel in the correct direction to see about 1.0 volts AC . If you go further you would carefully remove the wheel sensors as they do break and clean the face because the buildup clouds the inductance signal across the gap .
On the window there is a fuse # 15 / 30 amp RH Heelboard fuse box for a RHD British model and the connector on the control can have a wire become unlocked and not connected . Just need to push back in and lock maybe . You can cut the orange and blue wires to the motor and drive the window up and down with a 10 amp battery charger to verify that the motor and mechanism works . High current arcing hazard . Greasing the mechanism wouldn't hurt .
On the window there is a fuse # 15 / 30 amp RH Heelboard fuse box for a RHD British model and the connector on the control can have a wire become unlocked and not connected . Just need to push back in and lock maybe . You can cut the orange and blue wires to the motor and drive the window up and down with a 10 amp battery charger to verify that the motor and mechanism works . High current arcing hazard . Greasing the mechanism wouldn't hurt .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-20-2018 at 07:19 PM.
#12
New Information
First off I want to thank everyone for their ideas. As it turns out I just found out that about a year ago my friend had the right front turn signal replaced. The part he ordered did not have a bulb with it. He was having some other body work done and he had the body mechanic replace it for him. He does not know if he used the bulb from the old cracked turn signal or some other bulb. If that bulb is different that might be the problem. Reading how the 97 X300 is different could explain it. My problem now is HOW DO YOU GET THE FRONT TURN SIGNAL UNIT OUT TO CHECK?
Any help in addition to your previous help would be appreciated.
Thanks guys.
Any help in addition to your previous help would be appreciated.
Thanks guys.
#13
Bulb holder removal
I take it you are talking about the turn indicator inset into the front bumper. These are very easy to remove.
Carefully using a spatula, plastic trim remover or large blades scewdriver, insert this into the inner side edge of the cover and gently prise out. The holder is held in by a semi circular clip and Post which enables the whole unit to be swung away from the car and removed. Replacement is, as they say, the reversal of how you took it out. Be careful as you don’t want to damage any paintwork, but the unit should come out very easily.
I hope it works for you, although somehow I think that it isn’t the problem.
Carefully using a spatula, plastic trim remover or large blades scewdriver, insert this into the inner side edge of the cover and gently prise out. The holder is held in by a semi circular clip and Post which enables the whole unit to be swung away from the car and removed. Replacement is, as they say, the reversal of how you took it out. Be careful as you don’t want to damage any paintwork, but the unit should come out very easily.
I hope it works for you, although somehow I think that it isn’t the problem.
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Don B (05-09-2018)
#14
#15
The Electrical Guide gives the locations of all the control modules, and you can download the 1996 version here:
Jaguar X300 Electrical Guide 1996
Please add your Jag's year, model and engine details to your signature so we don't have to scroll back to find them in your earlier post.
Cheers,
Don
#16
#17
My friend is still having problem with the "light out"warning staying on. Is there any list in all the data that we have that identifies specifically what light bulb belongs in what socked through out the car? That is the next step to make sure the right bulbs are in the right sockets.
As you may have already learned, the Vehicle Care Handbook isn't helpful in this regard. It lists bulbs by type but bulb numbers are given only for the headlamps, foglamps and sun visor vanity mirror lamps. Descriptions like "Capless long life" and "Bayonet long life" won't help you select bulbs in your local auto parts store:
Sylvania and Philips have online bulb guides that may be helpful:
Sylvania Online Bulb Replacement Guide
Philips Online Automotive Bulb Look-Up
Cheers,
Don
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MountainMan (05-09-2018)
#18
If in doubt the bulb out monitor has a minimum current it must see , so go with a higher wattage bulb that has more current .
The down side is the bulb puts outs out more heat to melt the lens assembly .
This is only a test of the current monitor . The happy bulb will still have to be determined .
The 4 black square 13 pin connectors in the bottom corners of the car corrode which limits current with the correct bulbs installed . Replacement connector source available if needed if cleaning doesn't help . The wires on the back side of the bulb only connectors also corrode in the bad environment .
There are 2 exterior lamp modules on the 95 up til production # X . Later years only use 1 external lamp module with a uprated fuse
The down side is the bulb puts outs out more heat to melt the lens assembly .
This is only a test of the current monitor . The happy bulb will still have to be determined .
The 4 black square 13 pin connectors in the bottom corners of the car corrode which limits current with the correct bulbs installed . Replacement connector source available if needed if cleaning doesn't help . The wires on the back side of the bulb only connectors also corrode in the bad environment .
There are 2 exterior lamp modules on the 95 up til production # X . Later years only use 1 external lamp module with a uprated fuse
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 05-09-2018 at 09:13 PM.
#19
#20
After finding the number plate light bulbs had 'melted' the holders on my '94 X305, I rebuilt them and fitted LED bulbs (less heat!) and now of course the bl**dy bulb out warning comes on when I put the lights on, but interestingly it also comes on when the lights are off and I use the footbrake!!!! I was planning to replace more of the bulbs with LED's (I prefer the colour and the benefits of lower consumption) but is there a way of turning off the bulb checking - we really didn't have a problem before they started using the technology unless you were very lazy and didn't regularly check that bulbs were working. If you can't turn the checking off can the dashboard bulb be removed?