Are you ready for a saga? I had a problem with a rattle noise coming from the boot when closing the lid. The lid had to be slammed to latch. The key turned OK but did not seem to do anything. This was not really a problem since the boot release button worked as did the dash release button. So, I got annoyed with the rattle and decided to see to it. I found that one of the operating rods into the latch was adrift. I refitted it with a certain amount of difficulty and tried out all functions with the lid open! I closed the lid ... now nothing will release the lid. I can hear the solenoid clicking but that is all. The only way that I can see to get into the boot seems to cut a small hole just above the lock and fiddle with the lock operating mechanism. HELP.

 

If you do a search there is plenty of advice on getting into the boot without cutting a hole.

It may even be in the How to's section.

I know I read it on here somewhere

 

You'll have to pull the rear license plate off. There are four small holes, (there may be some tape covering some of them). You will want the use the bottom left hole. I cut a wire hanger and bent it into a small hook on one end. Feed it into the hole and start fishing around. Pull when you snag something. Repeat until you get it open.

 

Many thanks Nitonick. I had already removed the license plate and located the holes and fed in a small rod into the lower right hand hole. I was able to identify a "floating" actuating lever that I have assumed to be the one from the lock. I will have another go through the other holes including the lower left and an old coathanger hook. I do not understand why I hear the solenoid operate but no unlocking - unless both actuating rods are adrift.

 

Rereading your original post...

Since everything worked while you had it open and you had to slam the boot to close it, I think there's something in a bind. Have you tried pushing down on the boot while someone presses the button? You will have to push down on the boot, the other person then press and hold the button, and then you let off the boot.

 

This thread has some information that may help you. Post #5 has several links and post #13 has a view of the latch and how the rods should be arranged via a nasty hole someone cut away behind the license plate.

 

After trying with the bent coathanger wire all I managed to do was a) set off the alarm and b) hook what appeared to be electrical wiring! I gave up and drilled a neat hole which gave me access to the lock levers. A quick slide to the right opened the boot. The problem was that both operating levers were no longer attached. I re-attached them with some difficulty and the key now opens the boot. A little adjustment to the striker and the boot opens and closes brilliantly on the key - a partial result. Plugged the drilled hole with a grommet. However, the dashboard release and boot push button refuse to work. I have trial pushing the Valet button but no joy. I did notice that there is a brown connecter that is adrift but cannot find anywhere to connect it to. There are two connections going to the solenoid. Any suggestions?

 

Today,I have been out in the machine. I have now discovered that the key will lock and unlock the car and set the alarm. But, I now have a warning light telling me that the boot/trunk is open. It is not!!! So, perhaps the reason that the fob will not lock/unlock the car is due to the false signal, or no signal from the boot/trunk? I guess I have disturbed something - but what?

 

I'd say that loose wire goes to the micro switch on the latch. If it's not connected, it's telling the computer that the boot is open, so none of your buttons or key fob try to open something that is already open.

 

Hi i had a similar problem with a customers car; What i did was sat in the car with some one out side to lock the car by key in drivers door. Then pressed the velet button in the console at the sme time as the person out side unlock the drivers door with the key. this seemed to work as we heard all solenoids click. Boot now works ok ; worth a try Cheers Ray from down under

 

I will try to find where the connector goes again and will try the valet plus outside lock idea. Keep looking.

 

It's not going to hurt anything to try On Edge's suggestion, but you are going to have to find out why the warning light is on. I'll bet when you were fishing around trying to open the boot you pulled that wire loose from the micro switch.

 

I have now tried the valet switch and simultaneous door locking - no go! Have had another look at the wiring I cannot see anything adrift at either the push button or the solenoid. In fact I took the solenoid out and inspected it. There is only one connector going to it with two wires and they are all in place. I have also noticed that the interior boot lights do not come on - I don't know if this was the case previously. Could it be that the sensor that looks to be on the lock has thrown a wobbly? How can I check it?

 

Where is the loose brown connector at? Near the solenoid? The micro switch?

 

Near the solenoid - it looks as if a spur has been let into the wiring! There are two wires one is yellow with an orange tracer, the other is black. Joined into this is one blue wire and a red wire which go to the solenoid. I have now ordered a new latch assembly from a breakers with the attached micro-switch. It is in the post so I should get it early next week.

 

Not sure I follow here....

The brown connector with the yellow/orange and black wires is the one that connects to the trunk release actuator solenoid. Are you saying this connector is loose and someone has tapped into these wires that then connected those to the solenoid?

If that's the case, I'd say someone has replaced the solenoid that may not be original. Or maybe the original connector is buggered and they rigged it up to work. Kind of hard to say without looking at it.

I'm not finding the microswitch on the electrical diagrams.

 

The re-cycled boot lock arrived this morning. It appears to be a later version of the lock with slightly different part number. The major difference seems to be the micro-switch itself. The newer one has a contact rod that is far longer than my original one. I have now fitted it --- and all functions properly. HOORAY. Many thanks to everyone for their advice and encouragement. I will now try to source a new micro-switch to bring my old lock into full working order. I need an EATON part with the number LNA6242AC-16035020.

 

Glad you got it working.

 

Thanks for posting.
I can get (through the license plate holes) to the part where the rods are attached with a long screw driver. Which way does the mechanism work [i.e. Do I push it to the left or right ...(To clarify my question, I have added red and blue arrows to your photo and attached ..)]?

 

I have found the answer here : https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oot-faq-57621/