Yep , left key in ignition in the " on " position as troubleshooting other system . Closed doors and I pushed all locks down . Trunk open as have done trunk modification previously . Car battery fresh full charge . Remote FOB fresh new Energizer 2016 batteries . Main fuse OK . The FOB flashes as it transmits , should the FOB lights be on steady ? . I have done some wire chasing with the Security Module and the Wiring Schematic ( electronics by profession ) but will leave that out for others security concerns but I can discus the details in Private Mail . Should the FOB lights be on steady as a good strong signal ?

Thanks , Parker

 

I use a plastic/nylon crate binding strap to unlock 1988 to 2003 sedans. Pry the top of the door open and slide the strap DOUBLED as a LOOP.

Wiggle the doubled loop down the back of the door glass frame and catch the lock knob.

PULL BACK HARD and then pull UP.

Works every time.

bob

 

Thanks Motorcarman , pull straight back to tighten then up to pull knob . Disconnecting the battery for the knob may want to drive back to lock with the key in the on or run position . Heading to the store now for a scrap strapomatic and will keep in trunk .

Thanks , Parker

 

I keep a 3 foot length of the binding strap in my tool boxes and customers always want a length after they see me open the car in a minute.

All the mechanics had the straps in their toolboxes when I was at the dealer.

You might not need to disconnect the battery if you are really fast getting to the door handle!!!

bob

 

My sources didn't have any tonight , will have to go hunting tomorrow morning , no rush under restoration to square things up , getting some supplies anyway to refinish the fine woodwork back . Thanks for the advice Bob , that helps me tremendously . Lady P being out of configuration ( and that's being polite about what the previous owner did to her ) I assumed rather not have the lock motors work against me but then again the doors were closed before I opened them back up to secure for the night Friday . FOB did work before but that is not a priority with me now .

 

Call me paranoid, but I always leave the window down when doing things like working on the car with the key inside and me outside.

 

I was working at a shop about 30 years ago when I pulled the car in and closed the door. I was walking toward the office when I heard the doors lock and a 'chirp' from the alarm lock.

I ran back to the car but it was LOCKED with the key in the ignition!!!!
I called the lady that owned it and she said "Yes, it locks itself after about 10 seconds". She had a passive alarm installed for self locking.

She brought a second key and I NEVER pulled a car in the shop without opening a window (or sunroof if the windows don't work) ever again!!!!!!!

Lesson learned.

bob

 

Lowes had a wrapping machine on the floor and they cut off a 6 foot piece for me . Will be trying to unlock it when the sun comes up . I kept the remote FOB separate from the key for I knew I would probably lock myself out . But as it is out of configuration it wouldn't work . All worked fine before . To trick the wiring using the Wiring Schematic was like trying to break into Fort Knox Gold Storage .

 

Please tell us you have more than one key!!!!

bob

 

Nope , if you listen to my closest friends they always say too bad I'm not as bright as my shirts . Actually I only paid $ 1300 for this 110,000 mile , excellent original paint , interior , and Michelin tires on this rolling piece of art . My Lady P was so undervalued she was a " toss in " on someones previous truck deal as she was behind the curve mechanically . Figured the owner didn't have the money for a Jaguar shop ( assuming $ 200 a shop hour ) . My career was as an Airline Mechanic ( Jet Doctor or a Plane Surgeon ) on the flight line so I saw her mechanical condition as no big deal . As far as workmanship I have seen some " things " in my career , but not like the " things " I have seen with her . With the information gathered from this Forum she has come a long way back . I did ask for a second key , but that was no big deal at the time , just never got around to making a second although it was always on my mind and guarded again'st it , but I really nailed it . I will be following your advice after lunch and try to open it up and I came up with another idea as an expansion of the way you advised me if that doesn't pan out .

Thanks , Joe , I mean Parker

 

Ran into a spot of stumble under my bonnet . Giving it a little break . By using a plastic putty knife to not damage the rubber seals and a large screwdriver to pry the seal open I was able to get the hammered flat cinchknot halfway over the knob before cinching it tight . Using the steel inserts from a old longer windshield wiper and bending it curved before inserting them I'm trying to maneuver the cinchknot fully around the knob before pulling the cinch tight . Kinda like trying to get that special toy out of the large vending machine .

 

Got it . Thanks Bob ! It will never happen again , I promise . The key ( pun intended ) I found was the use of bend to shape long ( 22 inch ) windsheild wiper inserts from the auto parts store dumpster to guide the cinch knot over in proper fully around place before pulling tight . The approach I thought of expanding on the strap you use will be experimented with later but for now I have my one key in hand . I'll have to rewire the modifications to the Security Module as I was trying to trick Fort Knox later to ensure the FOB works correctly again as it did before . See icon below .