Hi there all. I had no heat on my 96 XJ6. I followed advice here on forum. SO THANK YOU ALL WHO DISCUSSED HEAT ISSUES!!! The circulation pump was fine. That pump is easy to test with the power lead just by brake pedal tower. Hook that live lead to yellow lead on pump and the other to ground. In my case pump worked fine. The core was the problem here.

Next I flushed the core once from inlet then from outlet. I then flushed with distilled water. Then put hoses back on and got car hot. I now have heat. I still need to figure out why no heat out of rear vents but I HAVE HEAT! Thanks all who discussed this.

NEXT- passenger door mirror does not function with switch. Drivers is fine. When I hit pass mirror switch, I hear the relay clicking but mirror not responding. Ideas?

happy Jaguar mothering!
Basil

 

Fuse ?

since you have a responding relay of sorts in that it is receiving a relay close command

it would be the power that passes through the other half of the relay

 

See page 155

jagxj1996.pdf (jagrepair.com)

# 6 / 5 amp left heelboard fuse box below the rear seat

The print only shows the power fuse and not the controlling fuse or wiring as a simplified schematic

since your left side mirror works and on the same fuse there can be a bad connection on the driver dor switch pack

What I found on mine with a window motor issue was the door switch pack connector had the pin locking bar loose and allowing the pins to migrate away from making contact

There is a thread on removing the door card which is involved

Inspect your speaker for dry speaker rot while you are there

The heat trim motors can be tested with a 9 volt battery and you can hear the motors drive to the selected position

 

It also could be someone left a window open during a rainstorm, or could have been a milkshake or cola, and the connectors got corroded. Why do I know that? hmmmmm

 

Don't do this or this will happen

 

Learning a lot on this Jag! Family driving me nuts this year. so jag a welcome diversion!!!!

ANyhow last night investigated that coolant sensor. It's interesting as it goes in bottom of tank but tank is sealed all around it. In therwords you pull sensor rod out and no coolant leaks out!!! They do thins by using a float magnet in the tank! So i jumpered the connection and sure enough the light went out. So next I sprayed MAF clener on the contacts and installed the sensor back in. The ECU thought about it for a minute or so and then said OK, I'll turn light out now! Funny huh!

Next i went after the power mirror. Just the right one not working.

Next I tried to take mirror off. Bad idea as I see destroying cheap plastic parts ! SO I stopped there and decided to pull the mirror glass off the motor. That worked out OK. Next I checked for power while my pal operated the mirror. BINGO- I had power. Next I reconnected the connector and While she operated the mirror, I whacked the little mirror motors with a hammer and one of them woke up!!!! By then It was dark so I closed it all up. Now I have a mirror that at least moves up and down. Will get after it again - and may try to just cross referrence motor numbers with some other little mirror motor. I'll bet other ford and jag motors may fit.

Hopefully I can keep the cost of these little electric gremlins down! Anyhow learning a little bit here. So what I can offer now is if we operate a mirror switch and hear clicking and only one mirror not responding, then we should go to the mirror itself - but I dont reccomend taking it off the door as too much plastic bits to break. But pop the glass off gently- theres a UTUBE vidio on a how to pop the glass too. When I open it next i plan on somehow lubricating those motors and maybe pulling the little one that isn't working and having a look at it. I hope I've helped someone as much as you nice people have helped me with my coolant level sensor and heater core!!!

 

High Temperature Mini Glue Gun (harborfreight.com)