Missing when warm
#21
#22
#23
Hi guys, I bought the Autel AP200 which is disappointing but we do have some data.
TCM transmission control module Faults 2
P0727 Engine speed input circuit no signal
P1790 Throttle position signal range performance, I did watch it on live data and it seemed to behave as expected.
All O2 sensor's passed except one : can someone tell me which this is / upstream downstream driver side or passenger ?
Bank 1- sensor 4
mid - 04
TID - 01
MIN - 50
MAX - 250
Value - 13
Result Failed
All opinions gratefully received, so thanks in advance
TCM transmission control module Faults 2
P0727 Engine speed input circuit no signal
P1790 Throttle position signal range performance, I did watch it on live data and it seemed to behave as expected.
All O2 sensor's passed except one : can someone tell me which this is / upstream downstream driver side or passenger ?
Bank 1- sensor 4
mid - 04
TID - 01
MIN - 50
MAX - 250
Value - 13
Result Failed
All opinions gratefully received, so thanks in advance
#24
Do yourself a favor and just buy yourself 4 new oxygen sensors and install them. You're not really considering replacing three of them, leaving the 25 year old fourth oxygen sensor alone, are you?
I think the P0727 pops up when your engine stalls out. I would ignore that one for now.
P1790 might indicate a faulty TPS. These sensors are not cheap, but they are a known problem.
What I'll recommend, again, is to change out the ancient oxygen sensors which have long outlived their expected life. Then come back and see what happens.
I think the P0727 pops up when your engine stalls out. I would ignore that one for now.
P1790 might indicate a faulty TPS. These sensors are not cheap, but they are a known problem.
What I'll recommend, again, is to change out the ancient oxygen sensors which have long outlived their expected life. Then come back and see what happens.
#25
#26
#27
You’re cheap? Wait til you see the price of a new TPS! Don’t buy a used one.
Oxygen sensors age out. I keep telling you the same thing, replace them. They’re likely 25 years old. These cars are already cheap with showing codes. Don’t be penny wise, pound foolish with this car. You’ll spend more time and more money chasing ghost issues.
You have an old car. There are many parts that will need to be replaced. Mostly rubber, but some electrical. This is a part that has a finite lifespan. They are not supposed to last forever. They’ll mess with your fueling ratio and eventually create more expensive problems.
Oxygen sensors age out. I keep telling you the same thing, replace them. They’re likely 25 years old. These cars are already cheap with showing codes. Don’t be penny wise, pound foolish with this car. You’ll spend more time and more money chasing ghost issues.
You have an old car. There are many parts that will need to be replaced. Mostly rubber, but some electrical. This is a part that has a finite lifespan. They are not supposed to last forever. They’ll mess with your fueling ratio and eventually create more expensive problems.
#28
Join Date: Nov 2012
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I can only agree with Vee. Oxygen sensors have a limited lifespan (which I am told can be seriously compromised by fuel containing ethanol.)
They seem to last at the best 70,000 miles. Many oxy sensor manufacturers quote 50K miles
I have replaced oxy sensors in a previously owned XJ40 and one of my current X300s.
All sorts of odd stalling and erratic behaviour ceased in both cars.
Remember you are dealing with a typical 24 to 27 year old car and these "ghosts" of strange things happening can be quelled by going about fault finding in a logical manner.
Don't rely too much on reader scans. However if you do have one oxy sensor "out" then the rest will be suspect and will probably fail fairly soon.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3 XJ6
X300 (2)
15 previous Jags MK5 to X308
They seem to last at the best 70,000 miles. Many oxy sensor manufacturers quote 50K miles
I have replaced oxy sensors in a previously owned XJ40 and one of my current X300s.
All sorts of odd stalling and erratic behaviour ceased in both cars.
Remember you are dealing with a typical 24 to 27 year old car and these "ghosts" of strange things happening can be quelled by going about fault finding in a logical manner.
Don't rely too much on reader scans. However if you do have one oxy sensor "out" then the rest will be suspect and will probably fail fairly soon.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3 XJ6
X300 (2)
15 previous Jags MK5 to X308
#30
I also found this on jag lovers forum, any thoughts ?
Doug_DwyerDoug Dwyer 1985 Series III V12
Nov '10Besides resistance values we should consider how many degrees of
sweep/rotation.
FWIW…probably nothing in this context…I found that the TPS from a 1992
Mustang 2.3 worked well as a replacement on my old XJS V12. It took an hour
or so to adapt it to fit but, for just $20, it was worth it.
The Mustang TPS looks very similar to others mentioned in this thread.
Cheers
Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJRFrom: “edenyard” lists@edenyard.co.uk
Doug_DwyerDoug Dwyer 1985 Series III V12
Nov '10Besides resistance values we should consider how many degrees of
sweep/rotation.
FWIW…probably nothing in this context…I found that the TPS from a 1992
Mustang 2.3 worked well as a replacement on my old XJS V12. It took an hour
or so to adapt it to fit but, for just $20, it was worth it.
The Mustang TPS looks very similar to others mentioned in this thread.
Cheers
Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJRFrom: “edenyard” lists@edenyard.co.uk
#31
Totally wrong engine. You're not even in the right continent.
I'll save you the time. There is no alternate part to the superexpensive TPS. There were some efforts to apply some other TPS' to the XJS, but none were ever successful.
As for Standard Motor, I do not have any history with them. I was interested in someone buying their super expensive coils to see if they were equal to the Japanese made OEM coils....all others seem to fail within months. (Except for QYL, also NLA)
I'll save you the time. There is no alternate part to the superexpensive TPS. There were some efforts to apply some other TPS' to the XJS, but none were ever successful.
As for Standard Motor, I do not have any history with them. I was interested in someone buying their super expensive coils to see if they were equal to the Japanese made OEM coils....all others seem to fail within months. (Except for QYL, also NLA)
#33
Hey Guys, fitted 4 new O2 sensors. New throttle position sensor (from England), new crankshaft position sensor and a new temperature sensor She starts up but when cold races somewhat at 1750 rpm. I have ordered a new idle control valve. I did swap out the idle valve for a spare I have but just the same rpm, that's why I don't think it's the problem. Any Ideas ? No faults showing on odb reader/
#34
The IAC valve does not have a follow up sensor to see if there is an agreement in what it is commanded and it's actual position
There is a test that can be done at the ECU connector and someone recently had a operational test of sorts
The replaced TPS may not be " matched or oriented " with the ECU
As a starting point of discussion the middle on the TPS sensor connector green / yellow wire should be reading close to 0.60 volts Dc with the TPS sensor connector installed , engine not running but the key in the run position
You can follow this green / yellow wire as it passes over the fuel rail
There is a test that can be done at the ECU connector and someone recently had a operational test of sorts
The replaced TPS may not be " matched or oriented " with the ECU
As a starting point of discussion the middle on the TPS sensor connector green / yellow wire should be reading close to 0.60 volts Dc with the TPS sensor connector installed , engine not running but the key in the run position
You can follow this green / yellow wire as it passes over the fuel rail
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-26-2021 at 12:56 PM.
#35
you have to reset the tps with ids diagnostic tool
throttle position % beyond idle range = idle control valve fully open = very high idle
what you can do is close the idle valve and leave it unplugged so you can drive around. if you drive to illinois i will reset it for free
throttle position % beyond idle range = idle control valve fully open = very high idle
what you can do is close the idle valve and leave it unplugged so you can drive around. if you drive to illinois i will reset it for free
Last edited by xalty; 09-26-2021 at 01:00 PM.
#38
Most likely needs a TPS reset….you’ll need to take it to someone that has the jag software loaded up to their system.
There is a way to manually adjust the TPS. You basically do this by tightening the screws that hold the TPS in place just enough to allow you to rotate its position. With the engine running and everything in place, you have to adjust the position until it’s idling at the correct RPM. 580 warm, 700 cold. Once you’ve got it at the right idle, tighten those screws, locking the TPS in place.
you may need to make the holes on the TPS larger….
There is a way to manually adjust the TPS. You basically do this by tightening the screws that hold the TPS in place just enough to allow you to rotate its position. With the engine running and everything in place, you have to adjust the position until it’s idling at the correct RPM. 580 warm, 700 cold. Once you’ve got it at the right idle, tighten those screws, locking the TPS in place.
you may need to make the holes on the TPS larger….
The following users liked this post:
Parker 7 (09-26-2021)
#39
Most likely needs a TPS reset….you’ll need to take it to someone that has the jag software loaded up to their system.
There is a way to manually adjust the TPS. You basically do this by tightening the screws that hold the TPS in place just enough to allow you to rotate its position. With the engine running and everything in place, you have to adjust the position until it’s idling at the correct RPM. 580 warm, 700 cold. Once you’ve got it at the right idle, tighten those screws, locking the TPS in place.
you may need to make the holes on the TPS larger….
There is a way to manually adjust the TPS. You basically do this by tightening the screws that hold the TPS in place just enough to allow you to rotate its position. With the engine running and everything in place, you have to adjust the position until it’s idling at the correct RPM. 580 warm, 700 cold. Once you’ve got it at the right idle, tighten those screws, locking the TPS in place.
you may need to make the holes on the TPS larger….
The sensor can be adjusted without removing the TB but takes some patients and is a torque bit
The TB butterfly must be at the idle stop and there are things that will keep the TB butterfly from returning to the idle stop
You can manually twist the butterfly bellcrank closed and see if that gives you anything
With a ELM 327 reader the TPS will not get below 13 %
The TPS sensor mounting holes on the sensor itself are plastic and have little if none adjustment as a fresh part
the light green / purple wire goes to the # 6 coil , the light green / orange wire is for # 5
IAC valve step motor reading
And at your black ECU connector , you may not read a open leg or winding until it is warmed up or tapping on it using a meedle meter to see the needle wiggle
This is a scheduled valve opening position that comes down in steps once you let off the throttle and it's final position after the TPS sees a closed butterfly is a close to closed position
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-26-2021 at 03:45 PM.