When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I love your methodical repairs for the car. Love it. Good luck
Thanks!
This weekend I MIGHT have the powerflex bushings per the distributor.
That means at minimum the bushings and maybe even the sways if the holes match up correctly.
It will be nice to be clunk free...and interesting to see if I have made it into an oversteering beast and will be looking for an XJR front bar to balance out the rear.
Also....if anyone has any asteroid wheels kicking around....I want a set.
I have a line on some but they won't ship...a friend is going by his location in November so if still for sale then I will have him pick them up in person.
Hmmm...Idle appears a bit high. Saggy headliner, possible battery drain issue. Not quite worth $7.5k with those issues, even if the rest is stone-cold perfect.
Ohio - The most important pictures of this one aren't posted - 21k mi won't mean much if it is eaten up underneath with rust - I'd want to see well-lit pics of the underneath of that one before pulling the trigger.
Get car on stands on where you can reach bolts. Remove 4 bolts on the subframe connector.
Remove 6 bolts across front of subframe. 4 from top two from bottom with a nut on top.
Remove 4 bolts attached to diff.
Sounds easy....but some of those bolts were a b@tch and some came out looking brand new. Some were very stiff with lots of thread lock. Heat is your friend in those situation.
Most came out in 10 minutes....a few took me a lot longer with limited access and heat being applied.
One bushing was loose immediately. The other I needed to place a 3 jaw puller on and apply pressure until it popped off. Again one easy and the other 20 minutes.
Removing centers of bushings was easy with sawzall and copious amounts of wd40. Once those out cut two grooves about 1/2 apart almost through bushing and then lift the tab you made with a screwdriver and hammer and they fall out almost.
The new ones have a ramp that meets the top edge a certain way. Mark them so you know how they go. I pressed them in with the jack against the lifting points of the car and they slipped right in. Lubed everything up with the provided goo and reassembled.
Putting everything back was bit of b@tch too. Keep all the bolts loose so you can line them all up to get them started then tighten them. Raising and lowering the rear suspension can help get them aligned.
Only drove a few miles but liked the feel. Keep in mind one of my bushings was ripped and the other was getting soft. The car felt much more planted, a little more road "info" was transmitted but car still road very respectably.
Will do a more detailed report later.
Still got a clunk in the left rear. I must not have gotten the shock upper mount tight enough when I installed.
Next up fixing the rear shock and installing the XJR rear sway bar.
Keep in mind old ones were 22 years old OEM and one was fall apart shot.
The car feels more planted, doesn't wander in the wind or the truck air blast. NO rear steer...which was disconcerting at times.
It transmit more road noise but NOT intrusive. You can feel what the rear end is doing and it is more communicative to the driver. You can feel the patter of the suspension doing its job instead of the mush it was before.
It feels more constrained in roll....but that is probably a combo of the monostrut too. Roll bar may go on this weekend. Aiming for neutral at the limit. Right now it under steers.
Update on the rear bushes. We have a street in town that is concrete bricks, like cobblestones. Very rough and high frequency. You can definitely feel the stiffer bushings....sets the car buzzing.
On another note I adjusted the W/P Alt belt since I hadn't since I changed it. Neither the WP or the ALT feel notchy but once loaded one of them has a tick. Betting it is WP since it appears original.
While there I swapped in my used crank position sensor. Wow. Huge difference. Lumpy idle dropped to near dead smooth. I think I will buy a new one and keep the one in it as my spare. Old one is trash bound!!
Replaced all the belts and the idler pulley (Steel one!) 2 months ago.
Marked the Crank pulley and it isn't slipping.
Have a rattle like a bad bearing. Uneven like a dry bearing in a loose race.
Removed AC belt to rule it out.
Quiet. No ticking.
Removed WP/ Alt belt. quiet.
Grasped pulleys on WP and alternator and the spin free, smooth, no bearing noise or clicking.
Here is the weird thing.
Put it all back together. Still clicks. If I spray belt dressing on the belt the clicking stops. I am careful that I am not getting it on the pulley shafts but I have no idea why the clicking stops when I put the dressing on.
I think I am going to R&R the water pump just because it looks original.....
Just had a look-in on this forum. AN X300 was a car I wanted way back in the 90s in England but was too poor ! (I had an XJ6 Series 3 at the time).
I am posting here because I am rather astonished to see Daimler-type radiator grill and rear number plate lamp plinths on your car. Daimler were never sold in the USA as a separate model by Jaguar, in fact they used the Daimler model name of Sovereign for Jaguars. Since way back into the 20s or even earlier, the Daimler Car Company had a "crinkle-cut" radiator grill, and this continued into Jaguar ownership. BTW, Daimler in England were totally separate from Daimler-Benz of Germnay who make the Mercedes cars.
Sadly Jaguar no longer make Daimler-badged cars, but retain the model name, so this could change in the future. Since the demise of the Daimler limousine in the 80s, all Daimlers since, have been rebadged Jaguars, with up-market trim inside.
Just had a look-in on this forum. AN X300 was a car I wanted way back in the 90s in England but was too poor ! (I had an XJ6 Series 3 at the time).
I am posting here because I am rather astonished to see Daimler-type radiator grill and rear number plate lamp plinths on your car. Daimler were never sold in the USA as a separate model by Jaguar, in fact they used the Daimler model name of Sovereign for Jaguars. Since way back into the 20s or even earlier, the Daimler Car Company had a "crinkle-cut" radiator grill, and this continued into Jaguar ownership. BTW, Daimler in England were totally separate from Daimler-Benz of Germnay who make the Mercedes cars.
Sadly Jaguar no longer make Daimler-badged cars, but retain the model name, so this could change in the future. Since the demise of the Daimler limousine in the 80s, all Daimlers since, have been rebadged Jaguars, with up-market trim inside.
As far as I know all the Vanden Plas cars were basically Daimlers with a Jaguar badges (and a leaper of course) over here.
I was out and about in the car tonight and it is just such a lovely experience.....
The side load from the belt puts a side load on the bearing , different from free hand spin . Have you put a stethoscope or ratchet extension on the WP ? If I remember correctly the 2 belts are the same length just different rib count .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 12-11-2017 at 10:40 PM.
The side load from the belt puts a side load on the bearing , different from free hand spin . Have you put a stethoscope or ratchet extension on the WP ? If I remember correctly the 2 belts are the same length just different rib count .
Yeah that is my guess. I don't understand why the application of belt dressing makes the sound stop instantly. It is not getting to the bearings. Maybe it relaxes the force that makes it rattle. Even easing the belt to way below spec it still rattles.
I put a rod to the WP and alternator while running and can't discern anything in particular assigned to either.
The car is old. The engine is old. I am sure the water pump is old. I am just going to R&R it and see what happens.
Makes sense . Without looking at it as to whether or not you have to disturb the thermostat housing there is some issues with it's installation if I remember as I saw some posting on the mater .
Pull the air pump if fitted and loosen the bracket attached to the Tstat. Remove the 10 MM bolt at the water pump/ bracket junction.
The 13 mm bolts hold the pump to the car. Pull those first, remove the hoses and the pump comes off in your hand.
Messing with the little 10mm bolts is much easier with the pump out of the car.
Bearings were definitely bad in WP once I had it out of car....but my odd clicking still occurs so it is either Alternator bearings or maybe the Crank pulley? I can't see it making a click noise.
I am going to put another new belt on it since the noise stops with application of belt dressing.
The Ford Jaguar bug has bitten me again...this time Land Rover.
I just picked up a 2010 LR4 HSE LUX Ipanema Sand at 113000 miles.
I have a couple other "British" cars. 2002 Mini Coopers S with 202000 miles on it and now the LR4!
My other cars are either Fords or BMW's. The LR4 was replacing an X5 that a negligent party destroyed by turning left immediately in front of it. It did very well. I suspect the LR4 would do even better...but probably would have really hurt the other driver.
So far I have been very impressed with Ford's influence on Jaguar Landrover. The XJ6 is a wonderfully put together car and was one of the key reasons I even looked at the LR4.
So far I have done a quick tape measure toe alignment...it had a little toe out and was wandering and following road features. Now it has a spec of toe in and life is good. Will get a real alignment when we replace 2 of the tires.
Had new control arms, bushings, ball joints and rear brakes when just before we got it.
Did a crossover pipe. Jag 5.0 owners will know all about that one.
Of course I worry about the timing chains but for all I know they have been done. I don't hear timing chain type noise. But the motor has a distinctive din of mechanical clatter. no records came with it but every thing I touch has been serviced recently and looks good....so fingers crossed.
10-23-2017, 02:32 PM
