New tire size help with tramlining
#81
11-23-2014, 07:47 AM
Greetings Doug,
Thank you for taking the trouble to respond to my last post.
There are some points in your post with which I would take issue, none more so than the assertion that the XJR suspension is "fundamentally the same as all the other X300s". In so far as it features springs , dampers and bushes, I suppose that your statement holds good, but at that level, it could be said that just about all car suspensions are "fundamentally" the same.
The fact is that the front and rear springs and shocks are unique to the XJR. They are not the same as the base car, or the sport versions. The principal bushing at the rear (A Frame) is unique to the XJR. The front anti roll bar thickness is unique to the XJR. The XJR uniquely had a limited slip differential, not to mention of course, the uniquely sized wheels and tyres. None of the XJR components referred to were optional equipment on other models, so I think my comments were both true and fair.
Now that I am aware of your experience in car dealerships, I can appreciate your cynicism regarding manufacturers even more fully, and as I have said before, I would share some of it. That said, I would still be inclined to place some faith in their judgement. Should I ever find myself owning a Ferrari, you can take it I will be listening to what they have to say about components critical, (yes, critical) to the vehicles safety and performance. I have a feeling that they know more about it than me, as come to think of it, do Jaguar. The opinion of a tyre fitter would be well down my list of likely sources of a reliable contribution to the debate. I don't even let them balance wheels without watching! Maybe things are different in the USA.
You mention in your reply a "Madman with hair on fire", and in an earlier post Plums refers to driving at 10/10ths. I don't think that I would fit into either of those categories any more ( when I owned the cars new, it might have been different story...), but I am not advocating sticking to the manufacturers recommended tyre size simply to enable irresponsible behaviour. The 10/10ths situation that could affect any of us at any time is the emergency stop: what price more grip then?
I remain puzzled by your logic that because tyres are safe for the XJ6, and the XJ12 (which of course are different from the XJ6 tyres), they must be safe for the XJR (which amongst other things has bigger wheels fitted).
I have no experience of the XJ12 with sports pack, but don't doubt your assertion that it narrows the gap to the XJR. Still quite a gap though...
And finally, the signatories of your "letter" should include the following: Audi, Ingolstadt, Mercedes Benz, Stuttgart, BMW, Munich, Ford & GM, Detroit, etc etc etc
On a more positive note, we do still seem to be agreed that the car needs to be in good condition, and fitted with a sympathetic tyre type to minimise tramlining. It also seems clear that neither of us will be in a queue for P Zeros anytime soon. For what it is worth, I do accept your point that narrower tyres will reduce tramlining, it is just the safety trade off I am debating.
Thank you for taking the trouble to respond to my last post.
There are some points in your post with which I would take issue, none more so than the assertion that the XJR suspension is "fundamentally the same as all the other X300s". In so far as it features springs , dampers and bushes, I suppose that your statement holds good, but at that level, it could be said that just about all car suspensions are "fundamentally" the same.
The fact is that the front and rear springs and shocks are unique to the XJR. They are not the same as the base car, or the sport versions. The principal bushing at the rear (A Frame) is unique to the XJR. The front anti roll bar thickness is unique to the XJR. The XJR uniquely had a limited slip differential, not to mention of course, the uniquely sized wheels and tyres. None of the XJR components referred to were optional equipment on other models, so I think my comments were both true and fair.
Now that I am aware of your experience in car dealerships, I can appreciate your cynicism regarding manufacturers even more fully, and as I have said before, I would share some of it. That said, I would still be inclined to place some faith in their judgement. Should I ever find myself owning a Ferrari, you can take it I will be listening to what they have to say about components critical, (yes, critical) to the vehicles safety and performance. I have a feeling that they know more about it than me, as come to think of it, do Jaguar. The opinion of a tyre fitter would be well down my list of likely sources of a reliable contribution to the debate. I don't even let them balance wheels without watching! Maybe things are different in the USA.
You mention in your reply a "Madman with hair on fire", and in an earlier post Plums refers to driving at 10/10ths. I don't think that I would fit into either of those categories any more ( when I owned the cars new, it might have been different story...), but I am not advocating sticking to the manufacturers recommended tyre size simply to enable irresponsible behaviour. The 10/10ths situation that could affect any of us at any time is the emergency stop: what price more grip then?
I remain puzzled by your logic that because tyres are safe for the XJ6, and the XJ12 (which of course are different from the XJ6 tyres), they must be safe for the XJR (which amongst other things has bigger wheels fitted).
I have no experience of the XJ12 with sports pack, but don't doubt your assertion that it narrows the gap to the XJR. Still quite a gap though...
And finally, the signatories of your "letter" should include the following: Audi, Ingolstadt, Mercedes Benz, Stuttgart, BMW, Munich, Ford & GM, Detroit, etc etc etc
On a more positive note, we do still seem to be agreed that the car needs to be in good condition, and fitted with a sympathetic tyre type to minimise tramlining. It also seems clear that neither of us will be in a queue for P Zeros anytime soon. For what it is worth, I do accept your point that narrower tyres will reduce tramlining, it is just the safety trade off I am debating.
#82
11-23-2014, 09:34 AM
Veteran Member
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Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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No trouble . I love hearing myself talk.
There are some points in your post with which I would take issue, none more so than the assertion that the XJR suspension is "fundamentally the same as all the other X300s". In so far as it features springs , dampers and bushes, I suppose that your statement holds good,
The layout is the same on all the X300 variants. No suspension components were relocated for the XJR. The XJR uses the same control arms as the other models, same uprights, same mounting configurations, same ball joints, same ARB links, ......
I think it's fair to call them 'fundamentally' the same.
.
The fact is that the front and rear springs and shocks are unique to the XJR. They are not the same as the base car, or the sport versions. The principal bushing at the rear (A Frame) is unique to the XJR. The front anti roll bar thickness is unique to the XJR. The XJR uniquely had a limited slip differential, not to mention of course, the uniquely sized wheels and tyres. None of the XJR components referred to were optional equipment on other models, so I think my comments were both true and fair.
Spring rates, shock valving, and ARB thickness is all a matter of suspension tuning and, in this case, a general firming-up. Nothing too scientific and no fundmental design changes in the suspension.
Not that 'tuning' is necessarily insignificant, mind you. I get that. But looking at all the X300 variants it really just comes down to different degrees of firmness.
The limited slip diff is not unique to the XJR. Other models could be ordered with it.
There *is* the XJR rear strut rod issue.....and from (slightly foggy) memory I beleive only the manual transmission XJRs were different, probably coming down to the way torque was delivered to the rear suspension versus automatic transmission cars.
Now that I am aware of your experience in car dealerships, I can appreciate your cynicism regarding manufacturers even more fully, and as I have said before, I would share some of it. That said, I would still be inclined to place some faith in their judgement. Should I ever find myself owning a Ferrari, you can take it I will be listening to what they have to say about components critical, (yes, critical) to the vehicles safety and performance. I have a feeling that they know more about it than me, as come to think of it, do Jaguar. The opinion of a tyre fitter would be well down my list of likely sources of a reliable contribution to the debate. I don't even let them balance wheels without watching!
Oh, heck, be it Ferrari or Jaguar or Toyota...or whoever....even * I * would put "some faith" in their judgement. I wouldn't disregard their opinions/recommendations 'out-of-hand'. I'd give them due consideration.
When it comes to tires, though, I think I'm capable of making a safe decision and I can almost guarantee that I can do a better job of finding a tire that suits my personal needs, driving habits, road conditions, etc that Jaguar or Ferrari can. They have no idea whatsoever what my desires, driving style/habits, and requirements are !
Maybe things are different in the USA.
When someone else says "We know what's best for you" it is our natural inclination to say "No, you don't" . That's how we became a country for goodness sakes
Seriously, though, over the many years I've noticed a very pronounced pattern where Yanks are less concerned about following manufacturer rules than most others and doubly so when it comes to tires. And, still, fewer than .5% of our crashes are tire related.
You mention in your reply a "Madman with hair on fire", and in an earlier post Plums refers to driving at 10/10ths. I don't think that I would fit into either of those categories any more ( when I owned the cars new, it might have been different story...), but I am not advocating sticking to the manufacturers recommended tyre size simply to enable irresponsible behaviour. The 10/10ths situation that could affect any of us at any time is the emergency stop: what price more grip then?
Everyone would agree that more grip is good. In that case let's ignore Jaguar recommendations and fit even larger tires!
But, wait.....
Where is it written the larger always means more grip and smaller always means less grip?
In seeking more grip we'd also have to look at rubber compound, tread design, inflation preferences, road conditions, etc. It not all about size! (There's a joke in there somewhere!).
For just one example in my part of the world wet traction is a major safety consideration. In that case 'more grip' might not come from the factory recommended tires. It might well come from a tire that I have selected because it is known to be especially good in the wet. And it might well be a bit smaller !
I remain puzzled by your logic that because tyres are safe for the XJ6, and the XJ12 (which of course are different from the XJ6 tyres), they must be safe for the XJR (which amongst other things has bigger wheels fitted).
If Jaguar deemed 225/60x16 size to be safe for the XJ6/XJ12, why would it be considered *unsafe* if fitted to the XJR? I can't think of any reason at all....and certainly not merely for the fact that the XJR has a firmer suspension.
If the size was so critical to safety then why didn't Jaguar use the 255/45x17 on all the X300s?
For what it is worth, I do accept your point that narrower tyres will reduce tramlining, it is just the safety trade off I am debating.
Right!
But I think less tramlining is an important safety enhancement.
In essence it comes down to this: I think varying from Jaguar specs on tires poses (much) less of a safety risk than you feel it does.
I'll wager that we can both agree that *the biggest* safety factor is the person behind the wheel
Cheers
DD
Last edited by Doug; 11-23-2014 at 09:37 AM.
#83
11-23-2014, 01:38 PM
Veteran Member
I selected the Michelin Primacy MXM4 in the 245/50R17 size for the following reasons:
- Mileage longevity
- Excellent dry weather performance
- Superior wet weather performance
- Reasonably good light snow performance
- Cost (Clearanced since Michelin is phasing this tire out, got an additional $20 off per tire since they had them in stock
)
- Very close in diameter/circumference as compared to OEM 255/45R17 size
- Size Jaguar chose for its new sporty 1997 XK8 with the same sized 17x8 rim
Since I do not drive 10/10ths (or even 7/10ths I suspect) in the dry, I am willing to sacrifice a bit of dry weather summer performance for a substantial increase in wet weather all season performance as my year round real world driving will expose me to a lot more inclement weather than if my XJR were only a fair weather parade car. Since it is my daily driver, and we experience significant rain and some light snow throughout the year a high performance all season tire is a better fit for me than an "ultra high performance summer" tire.
And although the sidewall is only a bit taller, the ride is much better for me with the 50 series. The 45 series tires would crash over bumps and every road imperfection was felt. The 50 series seems to still be "sporting" but has a much more gentle feel over road imperfections that seems to fit the car better.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....l=Primacy+MXM4
I had been looking into the Pirelli P7 Cinturato but it didn't fare as well in wet weather testing, although it did have a 70k mile warantee. If accurate, that is attractive but I needed the wet weather confidence and the Michelin has a 55k warantee. So the Michelin seemed like a good fit for my needs after a lot of researching.
.
- Mileage longevity
- Excellent dry weather performance
- Superior wet weather performance
- Reasonably good light snow performance
- Cost (Clearanced since Michelin is phasing this tire out, got an additional $20 off per tire since they had them in stock
)- Very close in diameter/circumference as compared to OEM 255/45R17 size
- Size Jaguar chose for its new sporty 1997 XK8 with the same sized 17x8 rim
Since I do not drive 10/10ths (or even 7/10ths I suspect) in the dry, I am willing to sacrifice a bit of dry weather summer performance for a substantial increase in wet weather all season performance as my year round real world driving will expose me to a lot more inclement weather than if my XJR were only a fair weather parade car. Since it is my daily driver, and we experience significant rain and some light snow throughout the year a high performance all season tire is a better fit for me than an "ultra high performance summer" tire.
And although the sidewall is only a bit taller, the ride is much better for me with the 50 series. The 45 series tires would crash over bumps and every road imperfection was felt. The 50 series seems to still be "sporting" but has a much more gentle feel over road imperfections that seems to fit the car better.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....l=Primacy+MXM4
I had been looking into the Pirelli P7 Cinturato but it didn't fare as well in wet weather testing, although it did have a 70k mile warantee. If accurate, that is attractive but I needed the wet weather confidence and the Michelin has a 55k warantee. So the Michelin seemed like a good fit for my needs after a lot of researching.
.
Last edited by al_roethlisberger; 11-23-2014 at 02:21 PM.
#84
11-23-2014, 02:01 PM
My 1997 XJR needs new tires this spring when I put her back on the road. It suffers from a noticeable case of tramlineing with the rubber I have on now. I have read some posts where it appears to help to replace the original 255/45/r17 size with a narrower 235/50/r17. Has anyone tried that fix and did it help, did someone try it and regret the decision? I'm a little hesitant to replace the OE size and before I put out $1000.00 to $1200.00 dollars out I'd love to get some feedback from the great group we have here.......thanks
#85
12-05-2014, 05:02 PM
I think this thread has probably run its course but I just had to relate my very recent experience.
The car has 156000 miles on it but has new springs and shocks (including associated bushes), new front drop links and rear ARB bushes (it's a Sport) but NOT wishbone bushes, ball-joints or track rod ends.
The car came with four 7 yr old Pirelli P6000s when I bought it in May and the rears were pretty worn so I replaced them with Falken Ziex 914 225/55 R16 (Load Rating 99).
The car was a bit squirmy from the start over white lines but was getting much worse as time went on. The ability to spontaneously change direction at 50+mph over rough road was becoming a little scary.
It was so profound that I assumed it had to be more than just the tyres and starting planning various bits of suspension and steering-rack work.
The front tyres had plenty of tread but I thought this was the most sensible place to start. So 2 new Michelin Primacy 3 on the front (225/55R16 W95).
Problem gone. Still not perfect but it is a soft springed car and the bushes probably still need doing but the problem reduced by 90%.
I chose the front tyres to be softer walled and to have more grip (still asymmetric although there are few choices in the UK that aren't) but I was stunned by the result - it really is all about the tyres. I just assume the old Pirellis were stiff as iron with age.
The car has 156000 miles on it but has new springs and shocks (including associated bushes), new front drop links and rear ARB bushes (it's a Sport) but NOT wishbone bushes, ball-joints or track rod ends.
The car came with four 7 yr old Pirelli P6000s when I bought it in May and the rears were pretty worn so I replaced them with Falken Ziex 914 225/55 R16 (Load Rating 99).
The car was a bit squirmy from the start over white lines but was getting much worse as time went on. The ability to spontaneously change direction at 50+mph over rough road was becoming a little scary.
It was so profound that I assumed it had to be more than just the tyres and starting planning various bits of suspension and steering-rack work.
The front tyres had plenty of tread but I thought this was the most sensible place to start. So 2 new Michelin Primacy 3 on the front (225/55R16 W95).
Problem gone. Still not perfect but it is a soft springed car and the bushes probably still need doing but the problem reduced by 90%.
I chose the front tyres to be softer walled and to have more grip (still asymmetric although there are few choices in the UK that aren't) but I was stunned by the result - it really is all about the tyres. I just assume the old Pirellis were stiff as iron with age.
The following users liked this post:
al_roethlisberger (12-05-2014)
#87
02-01-2015, 10:37 AM
Member
#88
02-01-2015, 10:43 AM
Veteran Member
I found the following the best online tire size calculator. You can enter your original size, then the proposed sizes and will see the impact.
Tire Size Calculator - Compare Tire Sizes
.
#89
06-10-2015, 04:25 PM
Veteran Member
scrub radius
Scrub radius, how important? - PistonHeads
I found the above and others while considering "what tire next" since one, and only
one of my front tires has bad wear on the inside tread. That sort of obviates toe
because toe self balances in front unlike the rear. Camber is not unreasonable and
on the lower end of spec.
But back to tramlining ... mine doesn't and I run 255/45R18 on asteroids. This gives
an overall diameter of 27 inches whereas stock is about 26'ish. All according to tirerack.
On one site, an old Jaguar diagram was used to illustrate the various geometry
concepts. This came from a time when diagrams were actually carefully drawn to
scale. It seems that the Jaguar front geometry of this vintage has a positive scrub
radius as do many RWD vehicles. Some scrub radius is good, too much is ...
well ... too much.
Increasing tire width without changing wheel offset will not change scrub radius.
But, it will increase the leverage.
However, increasing tire diameter does affect scrub radius. In the case of
positive scrub radius geometries, it decreases positive scrub radius thus decreasing
kickback/tramlining/steering effort.
BTW, 255/45R18 on asteroids won't fit on the X300 because someone tried in
Australia. On a X308, there is a finger width of clearance at the rear of the tire
when turned between the tire corner and the fender liner.
Fills the wheel arch really nice though
Still, going to a larger diameter of not quite so wide a tire might work on the X300.
For the curious who can borrow a mounted set of larger diameter tires, it might
be worth a try. It doesn't have to be 18 inch wheels because it is the overall
diameter that matters.
I might be going to 235/50R18 because the eight inch width of the asteroids
is marginal for 255/45R18. One of the results is wear in the center of the tread.
Just fyi.
Now if someone could explain why one tire would wear the inside edge with
camber and toe in spec, that would be great
++
I found the above and others while considering "what tire next" since one, and only
one of my front tires has bad wear on the inside tread. That sort of obviates toe
because toe self balances in front unlike the rear. Camber is not unreasonable and
on the lower end of spec.
But back to tramlining ... mine doesn't and I run 255/45R18 on asteroids. This gives
an overall diameter of 27 inches whereas stock is about 26'ish. All according to tirerack.
On one site, an old Jaguar diagram was used to illustrate the various geometry
concepts. This came from a time when diagrams were actually carefully drawn to
scale. It seems that the Jaguar front geometry of this vintage has a positive scrub
radius as do many RWD vehicles. Some scrub radius is good, too much is ...
well ... too much.
Increasing tire width without changing wheel offset will not change scrub radius.
But, it will increase the leverage.
However, increasing tire diameter does affect scrub radius. In the case of
positive scrub radius geometries, it decreases positive scrub radius thus decreasing
kickback/tramlining/steering effort.
BTW, 255/45R18 on asteroids won't fit on the X300 because someone tried in
Australia. On a X308, there is a finger width of clearance at the rear of the tire
when turned between the tire corner and the fender liner.
Fills the wheel arch really nice though
Still, going to a larger diameter of not quite so wide a tire might work on the X300.
For the curious who can borrow a mounted set of larger diameter tires, it might
be worth a try. It doesn't have to be 18 inch wheels because it is the overall
diameter that matters.
I might be going to 235/50R18 because the eight inch width of the asteroids
is marginal for 255/45R18. One of the results is wear in the center of the tread.
Just fyi.
Now if someone could explain why one tire would wear the inside edge with
camber and toe in spec, that would be great
++
Last edited by plums; 06-10-2015 at 04:30 PM.
#90
06-11-2015, 12:55 AM
#91
06-11-2015, 04:20 AM
Plums,
A theory from left field: Do you repeatedly make tight/ very tight turns in one direction?
In a past life, I had a Triumph Herald, and one of its virtues (from a very short list!) was a tight turning circle. When I parked outside home, it could easily turn in the width of the road on full lock, with the result that I was making two or three full lock turns in the same direction every day. Once I started going through tyres as a result of the inside edge of the drivers tyre being scrubbed off, I reverted to a more normal three point turn, and the problem went away. Whilst the geometry is symmetrical in the straight ahead position, as you turn, the disposition of each front wheel becomes asymmetrical, so as well as the different scrubbing effects between the inside and outside tyre, they are also placed differently on the road surface.
A further thought, and I am unsure whether this applies to the X300 rack, but not all racks move the wheels proportionately as you move away from the central position. Could you have your steering perfectly set up, but without having the rack properly centred to start with? Is your steering wheel straight when driving straight?
A theory from left field: Do you repeatedly make tight/ very tight turns in one direction?
In a past life, I had a Triumph Herald, and one of its virtues (from a very short list!) was a tight turning circle. When I parked outside home, it could easily turn in the width of the road on full lock, with the result that I was making two or three full lock turns in the same direction every day. Once I started going through tyres as a result of the inside edge of the drivers tyre being scrubbed off, I reverted to a more normal three point turn, and the problem went away. Whilst the geometry is symmetrical in the straight ahead position, as you turn, the disposition of each front wheel becomes asymmetrical, so as well as the different scrubbing effects between the inside and outside tyre, they are also placed differently on the road surface.
A further thought, and I am unsure whether this applies to the X300 rack, but not all racks move the wheels proportionately as you move away from the central position. Could you have your steering perfectly set up, but without having the rack properly centred to start with? Is your steering wheel straight when driving straight?
#92
06-15-2015, 11:58 PM
Veteran Member
#93
07-02-2015, 07:03 PM
Junior Member
Hello everyone.
I have a really big issue. I had two brand new tires put on my 2000 jaguar s type today. On my way home, the anti traction light began to blink around 45 to 50 mph. And then the car stops accelerating and actually slows down on the freeway!!!!! So i was able to pull over and the light went off. As soon as i begin driving and reached the 45mph mark, the light flashes again and the car slows down again! This was the scariest drive in my life. I called and company that i had the tires put on at and i have to take the car back to them in the morning. It has never happened before. Can anyone tell me why it is happening now? I HAVE BEEN ALL OVER THE FORUM AND CAN NOT FIND ANYTHING RELATED. AND CAN SOMEONE TELL ME HOW TO POST MY OWN NEW POST. I CANNOT SEEM TO FIND THE LINK
Thanks
I have a really big issue. I had two brand new tires put on my 2000 jaguar s type today. On my way home, the anti traction light began to blink around 45 to 50 mph. And then the car stops accelerating and actually slows down on the freeway!!!!! So i was able to pull over and the light went off. As soon as i begin driving and reached the 45mph mark, the light flashes again and the car slows down again! This was the scariest drive in my life. I called and company that i had the tires put on at and i have to take the car back to them in the morning. It has never happened before. Can anyone tell me why it is happening now? I HAVE BEEN ALL OVER THE FORUM AND CAN NOT FIND ANYTHING RELATED. AND CAN SOMEONE TELL ME HOW TO POST MY OWN NEW POST. I CANNOT SEEM TO FIND THE LINK
Thanks
#95
07-11-2015, 07:37 PM
In my May post I said that I reduced the white-lining by 90% by changing tyres.
That turned out to be overstated as I could still make the car squirm on the worst patches of rough/uneven road surface particularly at 50mph+.
I have just had to replace the steering rack (because of fluid leaks from both ends) and the car is a revelation.
Stable on all road surfaces and a joy to drive.
In the interests of full disclosure I had 2 new track-rod ends put on as well: one of the old ones moved easily but the other had been replaced and was still stiff.
Decent price I thought:
Steering Rack : STEERING - AXLE: Steering Rack: DSR1085 -- REMY
That turned out to be overstated as I could still make the car squirm on the worst patches of rough/uneven road surface particularly at 50mph+.
I have just had to replace the steering rack (because of fluid leaks from both ends) and the car is a revelation.
Stable on all road surfaces and a joy to drive.
In the interests of full disclosure I had 2 new track-rod ends put on as well: one of the old ones moved easily but the other had been replaced and was still stiff.
Decent price I thought:
Steering Rack : STEERING - AXLE: Steering Rack: DSR1085 -- REMY
#96
06-20-2016, 07:08 PM
Member
Tire size x300 xjr
DD
Would 245/50/17 be a fit as well as 235/50/17??? I'm wanting a smoother more quiet ride. Tramlining isn't my problem. Your suggestions? Thank you
QUOTE=Doug;686498]Indeed true.
Or incorrect alignment settings. Or loose wheel wheel bearings.
Tire condition and tread design as well, of course.
Over a period of time I had tramlining reduced significantly on my XJR but the biggest contributing factor has been tires. Eventually I went to 225/60x16 tires and the tramlining disappeared completely. The reason for the downsizing was to get tires that would provide a decent tread life. Eliminating the tramlining was just a bonus :-)
Cheers
DD[/QUOTE]
Would 245/50/17 be a fit as well as 235/50/17??? I'm wanting a smoother more quiet ride. Tramlining isn't my problem. Your suggestions? Thank you
QUOTE=Doug;686498]Indeed true.
Or incorrect alignment settings. Or loose wheel wheel bearings.
Tire condition and tread design as well, of course.
Over a period of time I had tramlining reduced significantly on my XJR but the biggest contributing factor has been tires. Eventually I went to 225/60x16 tires and the tramlining disappeared completely. The reason for the downsizing was to get tires that would provide a decent tread life. Eliminating the tramlining was just a bonus :-)
Cheers
DD[/QUOTE]
#97
06-20-2016, 07:13 PM
Member
97 x306 tires
I was wondering. Will a 245/50/17 fit on my car? Tramlining isn't my issue. I want a softer more quiet ride. A 245/50/17 is taller sidewall than a 235/50/17???? I DONT WANT MY TIRES TO RUB! Your suggestions ??? Thanks for any help.
I changed my tyres to 235/50/17 Kuhmo,s
Because of the tram-lining issues I also have a set of anti tram-lining upper control arm bushes fitted that where designed by a fellow XJR owner when I was on the XJR6 forum
The anti tram-lining bushes did improve the tram-lining problem a bit with the 255/45/17 Falken ziex tyres but when they wore out I had my rims spun up trued and restored fitting the 235/50/17 Kuhmo,s
I would never go back to the 255/45/17 tyres again even if someone gave me a brand new set of Michelin,s
I would put them on-line and sell them
The 255/45/17 tyres are okay if you are racing but round town and everyday use the 235/50/17 are a superior choice
1 The car is smoother and less rough riding more like a jaguar should be even though I run 40 psi in them
2 The car handles better with the smaller tyres
Before the car would dig in and under-steer badly pretty frightening when you are heading for a wall now with the 235/5017,s I can induce over-steer easily with my right foot
3 As the side wall is slightly higher no gutter rash on my rims after 3 years
4 they have a much straighter side-wall less tyre rolling around and look really good on the 8 inch rims
I get more comments on the 235/50/17,s then I did on the 255/45/17,s don't ask me why I just do
My speedo was 6 k,s out with the 255/45/17,s it now 4 k,s out I think if they made 245/50/17,s the speedo would be close to spot on
5 I am really happy with the Kuhmo,s reasonably priced last long and grip well even in tropical down pours that are a regular occurrence here in summer I cant vouch for them in cold climates doesn't get under double digits here even in the middle of winter at 4 in the morning
Hope this helps there are quite a few brands of 235/50/17 tyres on the market do some research and look for some feed back not necessarily on the tyre size you are looking at but the tyre model
Tire-rack lead me in the right direction a couple of times with their tyre feedback,s
And as you can see in the photo,s they don't look wrong on the car
Because of the tram-lining issues I also have a set of anti tram-lining upper control arm bushes fitted that where designed by a fellow XJR owner when I was on the XJR6 forum
The anti tram-lining bushes did improve the tram-lining problem a bit with the 255/45/17 Falken ziex tyres but when they wore out I had my rims spun up trued and restored fitting the 235/50/17 Kuhmo,s
I would never go back to the 255/45/17 tyres again even if someone gave me a brand new set of Michelin,s
I would put them on-line and sell them
The 255/45/17 tyres are okay if you are racing but round town and everyday use the 235/50/17 are a superior choice
1 The car is smoother and less rough riding more like a jaguar should be even though I run 40 psi in them
2 The car handles better with the smaller tyres
Before the car would dig in and under-steer badly pretty frightening when you are heading for a wall now with the 235/5017,s I can induce over-steer easily with my right foot
3 As the side wall is slightly higher no gutter rash on my rims after 3 years
4 they have a much straighter side-wall less tyre rolling around and look really good on the 8 inch rims
I get more comments on the 235/50/17,s then I did on the 255/45/17,s don't ask me why I just do
My speedo was 6 k,s out with the 255/45/17,s it now 4 k,s out I think if they made 245/50/17,s the speedo would be close to spot on
5 I am really happy with the Kuhmo,s reasonably priced last long and grip well even in tropical down pours that are a regular occurrence here in summer I cant vouch for them in cold climates doesn't get under double digits here even in the middle of winter at 4 in the morning
Hope this helps there are quite a few brands of 235/50/17 tyres on the market do some research and look for some feed back not necessarily on the tyre size you are looking at but the tyre model
Tire-rack lead me in the right direction a couple of times with their tyre feedback,s
And as you can see in the photo,s they don't look wrong on the car
#98
06-21-2016, 07:08 AM
Veteran Member
#99
06-22-2016, 03:39 AM
#100
11-17-2017, 02:19 AM
Hey you X300 drivers with 16” wheels - what tyre?
I was going to start a new thread, in fact I thought I had, but it ended up here after I had re-read this old thread....
My Daimler had an encounter with a curb today (not me) and a rear tyre has a small but deep hole in the sidewalk, down to fabric. The tires are 225/60 x 16” Toyo Teo I bought nearly 5 years ago. At the time I was very happy with them as they cured most of my tramlining (along with an alignment) and were vastly superior to the worn, mismatched set I bought the car with. However they have done 45000km and endured 5 years of NZ UV sun. They regularly do 100mph (on private roads of course), and owe me nothing.
In recent years I have become a fan of Bridgestone on the XJR (RE003s 245/45x18) and Michelin’s on two SUVs (18” and 20”).
I’m not sure what is best for my humble but still-fast 3.2 Daimler 6
I need to replace the 225/60 x 16 tyres .
Please give me your opinions. I am not really worried about the cost.
Thanks, Al, NZ
My Daimler had an encounter with a curb today (not me) and a rear tyre has a small but deep hole in the sidewalk, down to fabric. The tires are 225/60 x 16” Toyo Teo I bought nearly 5 years ago. At the time I was very happy with them as they cured most of my tramlining (along with an alignment) and were vastly superior to the worn, mismatched set I bought the car with. However they have done 45000km and endured 5 years of NZ UV sun. They regularly do 100mph (on private roads of course), and owe me nothing.
In recent years I have become a fan of Bridgestone on the XJR (RE003s 245/45x18) and Michelin’s on two SUVs (18” and 20”).
I’m not sure what is best for my humble but still-fast 3.2 Daimler 6
I need to replace the 225/60 x 16 tyres .
Please give me your opinions. I am not really worried about the cost.
Thanks, Al, NZ
Last edited by AL NZ; 11-17-2017 at 03:07 AM.