Hello everyone. I recently changed the starter motor to my -97 x300. ( was a painfull operation) Anyways, everything was going well, until i tried to start the car for the first time. Nothing happened. No crank. Well i ruled out bad starter motor by giving it power with jumper cables, and it worked just fine. Then went trough every single fuse and realy, and everything were fine. P light is lit up and i wiggeled it and no luck. I have heard some people talking about faulty security&locking modules and body processor modules. Could this be it? I pulled out the security module from the trunk, and it seemed fine for eye. Connectors seemed fine and inside of the box looked okay, no water or burn marks etc… Also one thread said that if body processor module was faulty, some electrics wouldnt work such as brake lights, but they all do work… Oh and the starters power cables are all okay. I found out that the starters small cable from the big harness is not getting power. Or atleast thats what multimeter told me. So no signal for starter to do anything. Thanks in advance -OzzoR

 

By starter cable are you referring to the heavy cable from the right wheel well rear going rear around the block to the cars left

To split the starter system in half does the large starter solenoid relay click ( must have finger on it and not by sound ( this verifies enables / agreements )

The starter solinoid relay has 2 small and 2 medium wires on it , one being White going down to the stater solenoid

Fuse # 3 left engine bay fuse box and either fuse # 10 , 12 , 14 , or 16 right engine bay fuse box ( the right fuse requires the relay in the corner of the right fuse box to close , feel for click , it can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box as this relay only powers the car horn )

3.2 liter or 4.0 liter engine ?

The battery cable post on the right wheel well rear is powered at all times but a large mega fuse location Y

Do not overtighten the battery positive post ( must be fwd and can be backwards )

Ask me how I know................................twice

Pics coming

 

Hi. Thank you for the reply. Im being very desperate here.

1. Yes heavy cable, the main electric harness. That comes from right, goes behing the engine and ends up to the injectors and all other stuff on the right of the engine.The little yellow cable that comes from the starter solenoid and goes into the main harness via quick connector, doesnt get power/signal.

2.if the relay is the one thats near air intake and behind the head light, then yes, it clicks and is working fine. It only clicks, when i try to start.

​​​​​​3. In the right fuse box, there is a relay that clicks once when i turn ignition on and once again like 5 seconds after the ignition being turned on. If this is what you wanted to know.

4. 3.2l inline 6

5. Battery is the right way around.


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The little yellow cable that comes from the starter solenoid and goes into the main harness via quick connector, doesnt get power/signal


Researching

# relays needing to click by finger closed # 9 small right engine bay fuse box , # 5 large ECU controlled relay , and the large left # 4 starter solenoid relay

Yellow wire..........

There is a 2 wire connector with only one White wire that goes down to the solenoid terminal screw

The medium size White wire attached by screw to the solenoid attached on the starter would get power down to direction to close the solenoid which mechanically meshes the gears and closes the contacts for main heavy battery cable muscle power to turn the starter

There have been problems reported of the heavy battery cable nuts on the starter solenoid coming loose as well as the post on the right wheel well . this would be point ST5 / ST3 at the top of the wiring print

See page 44 for 3.2 liter transmission combo different then more common 4.0 liter

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1997.pdf

 

The starter motor / solenoid pic in the wiring diagram is not the best figure representation

Pic coming then bed time in the States

Note the 2 heavy battery and alternator output cables come together at the top terminal post

The pigtail is all by itself on the lower terminal post

 

Yes, the starter cables are the same way as in the picture. And the starter is new, and bolts are tight etc.. Just the white/Yellow cable that activates the starter, is out of power for reason or other. Also came up to my mind, could the starter relay base be broken? (relay clicks, but what if power doesnt get anywhere after the relay..) And wh+here exactly are the starters ground located. Also sorry if i answer to wrong things, English isnt my native and sometimes hard to understand.

 

The engine earth strap attaches to the lower starter motor bolt. Is it possible you forgot to reconnect that?

 

English isn't English's native language

A relay can click and still be a bad relay , fortunately that starter relay can be swapped with a headlight , fog , or A / C clutch of the same part # on it's top

LNA6706AA

Genuine Relays For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) (x300) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

Item # 1

There is the possibility that the relay base / socket can be mounted in the wrong position and would have to verify the wire colors in the base

During production if they are out of White medium gauge wire that won't hold up production and they would use what they have

Researching and be back in a couple hours

 

Just to clarify. This white cable i have rounded, this is what activates the starter. This cable does not get power.

Next thing: is this cable supposed to go to a connector that goes into the harness that i also have rounded. I know the connector is not visible in the picture, but you get the point.

 

Pic is great

Yes I see and that is the starter solenoid to close / starter rotation wire with the white tag / flag on it

The other 2 / 4 wire connectors are the rear O2 sensor connectors

The tag / flagged wire will not have power on it until connected to the 2 wire space connector with only 1 wire installed as it only has the 1 wire

At the other side of the 2 wire connector , it goes to the starter solenoid relay socket position 5

Position 3 comes from fuse # 3 / 25 amp ( clear color ? ) left engine bay fuse box , hot at all times

To close the relay.........................

Socket 2 is fuse # 12 right engine bay fuse box as control power , this fuse requires the relay in the corner of the fuse box to click and stay closed , swapping option left engine bay fuse box relay ( only runs the car horn and not the fuses in this case )

I think you mentioned your right relay drops / clicks out back to open

Socket 1 is body processor module provided ground pin FC1 - 33 control ground

This provided ground will not happen unless the BPM has all it's agreements ( key position momentary full rotation , engine ECU , security SLCM , and we get to the chip in key immobilization / enable )

To cover the base , inertia / crash switch reset ?

 

Starter ground heavy strap on the bottom starter mount bolt to the car frame ground is 13 mm on 3 inch extension at the starter and 10 mm short socket on the near car frame left rail

You may see some oxidation on the ground strap weave and just put a heavy grease on it and will absorb from heat / time

 

Hi again!
Im very sorry for wasting your time on this. The problem was bad ground cable. I should have checked that first. Well now i have learned a lot about my car atleast.

Thank you for help Parker7 and b1mcp

 

Call again and help others

I'm a big believer in grounds as they are as important as power wires and neglected / corroded

To tidy and clean connection things up there are 4 engine regulation smaller grounds studs with 3 - 4 wires on them , these effect engine regulation sensors including the O2 sensors important signal protection grounds on the engine rear firewall , look for vacuum hoses in place under the air filter box as I had 1 totally missing

There is a map and the cruise control hoses are independent / isolated from the engine hoses , the cruise control has its own electric vacuum pump at the very front under the left headlight

2 small terminal studs on the rear engine firewall ( all sensors signal protection grounds ) and 2 small studs behind the headlights on the left and right chassis rails as the locations mirror each other , the left is under the engine air filter box

There is also a medium size wire case / module box shell external ground strap on the engine ECU that can easily be left off