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Large # 4 is the starter solenoid relay and you must feel for it to click telling you it gets the correct command to close to power the starter solenoid / starter motor assembly
Inertia switch pic for right hand steering , this switch does not always reset and the only 2 white wires on the connector can be jumperd with a paper clip leaving the only black wire alone . You will still need to rotate the key so it is safe
Large # 4 is the starter solenoid relay and you must feel for it to click telling you it gets the correct command to close to power the starter solenoid / starter motor assembly
Inertia switch pic for right hand steering , this switch does not always reset and the only 2 white wires on the connector can be jumperd with a paper clip leaving the only black wire alone . You will still need to rotate the key so it is safe
Found this inertia switch, just before I’ll change it few pictures This when ignition on
This this light comes up when trying to start it
This plug near inertia switch, unplugged, can’t see any place to plug it in, may be spare one
This plug beside the battery, also for spare?
also information that can help, rad fan starting working when ignition in on position, central locking not working, radio asking code.. that’s it for a moment..
In your picture the check engine light is off. If you have a UK car this means the immobiliser is ON and the car will not try to turn over.
Also even if the car was not immobilised if the voltage drops below 11ish the ECU will not fire the injectors.
The fact that the fans run constantly will drain a battery very quickly whilst you are performing diagnostics. When I was sorting out the panel lights on mine, my battery drained down and gave me a bloody great scare by suddenly going immobilised I can tell you.
Charge the battery, unplug the fans so that the power is not draining at a fast rate, and start again. Once you have the battery full the ‘odd’ warnings like SRS will vanish and you will have a fighting chance.
Oh and don’t forget to reconnect the fans when you win and it’s running!
In your picture the check engine light is off. If you have a UK car this means the immobiliser is ON and the car will not try to turn over.
Also even if the car was not immobilised if the voltage drops below 11ish the ECU will not fire the injectors.
The fact that the fans run constantly will drain a battery very quickly whilst you are performing diagnostics. When I was sorting out the panel lights on mine, my battery drained down and gave me a bloody great scare by suddenly going immobilised I can tell you.
Charge the battery, unplug the fans so that the power is not draining at a fast rate, and start again. Once you have the battery full the ‘odd’ warnings like SRS will vanish and you will have a fighting chance.
Oh and don’t forget to reconnect the fans when you win and it’s running!
i understand that, but if problem was with the battery, it will try even once to start. Day before yesterday, I put fully charged bigger battery, that still charged enough (checked on the battery tester). Battery light will be always on before car will start…
Ok, if an auto, is the P on the gear selector illuminating? This will disable the starter if not. You could try giving it a wiggle to make it light.
Do you hear a click when you press on the break. If not then it could be the break switch on the peddle faulty.
Ok, if an auto, is the P on the gear selector illuminating? This will disable the starter if not. You could try giving it a wiggle to make it light.
Do you hear a click when you press on the break. If not then it could be the break switch on the peddle faulty.
yes, parking light on on the gear selector, saw one video on you tube, tried it today… will try inertia switch tomorrow.. will see… didn’t mansion about brake pedal, will try also, thanks for help
Ok, if an auto, is the P on the gear selector illuminating? This will disable the starter if not. You could try giving it a wiggle to make it light.
Do you hear a click when you press on the break. If not then it could be the break switch on the peddle faulty.
if brake light switch faulty, than stop lights wont work as well?
if brake light switch faulty, than stop lights wont work as well?
I am not sure, if it operates lights as well as the inhibitor.
The test is, once pressed you should here a click around the gear selector.
This is a stop in the gear selector operating. This is to ensure you can not come out of park or start the engine with out your foot on the break.
If you cannot hear the click then check the switch.
I know I keep saying this, but the voltage gauge is showing less than 11V, good things will not happen unless that is showing over 12V.
One other thing, the check engine light needs to be ON before the car will turn over. Once your gauge is showing over 12V, try locking and unlocking with the key fob and see if that resets the security.
Do not tighten the positive battery post clamp downward pointing bolt too tight , the specially shaped nut underneath will break . A battery shim will help with the stretched out battery clamp .
You will have a loose connector in the trunk that goes to a shipping device that is removed at the dealer
When the starter starts to rotate when we get to that point ( i am assuming you never get starter rotation ) the voltage must stay above 11.4 volt ( natural starter sag ) otherwise the starter will spin the engine just fine but not enough to properly run the ECU for a light off
The key to the starter troubleshooting is if the starter solenoid relay clicks closed to power the starter solenoid / starter motor assembly
The starter solenoid relay is looking for a command ground provided by the Body Processor Module once it satisfies its agreements
The Body Processor Modular is looking for agreements
These agreements are :
BPM power from the # 5 / 10 amp trunk fuse ( hot at all times ) that passes through the large troublesome BT4 connector above the fuel tank on its way to the front ( pin 47 ) , this is pictured below and can be hard to reconnect as some sheet metal in the recessed cutout can be in the way from connecting it without breaking the lock over pins . You may find a tie wrap on the lock over bar to keep it from migrating to the open position .
Linier switch position , FC2 - 20 . There have been problems with fluids getting into this switch and the delicate contact fingers inside can be cleaned with a solvent and a pencil eraser .
Engine Control Unit , FC2 - 7
Security Locking Control Unit , FC2 - 5 ,this can be reset with a Hard Reset procedure that is more involved then a positive battery cable removal , You have the radio security codes in your area to concern yourself with before doing the hard reset . You may already be at this point with your radio code light
The ignition key itself " providing " a ground signal command to the BPM , this is pin FC2 - 41 in the picture above
You have the 3.2 liter engine with the ZF4HP22 transmission which does not have a rotary position switch like the 4.0 liter with the ZF4HP24
From the wiring guide above you do not have a chip in the key which is a form of immobilization
The US models with the 4.o liter and the ZF4HP24 transmission also do not have this key chip
The brake switch is 2 switches in one with one switch only running the tail lights
Pin 1 of the switch provides a ground command to the BPM for the gear shift interlock relay which is located fwd of the gear shift lever and if you hear the solenoid ( A larger clunking sound then the relay ) attached to the shift lever you have verified that
The not in park switch when moving the shift lever in and out of the park position " gate " can also be a problem . This switch is located on the gate
Be careful of the thin chrome surround on the shift lever boot as is fragile
The pigtail wire is the not in park switch , the long rectangle box on the right of the shift lever is your linier switch , and the shift lever solenoid relay is the left side blue stripped , and the key interlock solenoid relay is on the right
Place your finger on the specific relay as they will both be clicking about the same time
some updates on this, tried to start it yesterday straight from the starter resistor. Put ignition on, and push starter resistor under the bonnet, engine was trying to start, starter was running, but didnt start (could be no petrol in the tank, will put more petrol this week)
will check 2 security relays in the boot today also.
did anyone has problem with the back of ignition or ecu's on this cars?
06-28-2021, 11:11 AM
