Thanks for the clarification Grant. I'll get on to this in the next few weeks and report back on the results

 

I noticed when I bought my 97 x300 that the upper tensioner was installed the wrong way up (arrow down). I always noticed the kind of tapping/rattle sound at startup but it didn't last long, so I just left it.
After reading through this post and learning more about this part, I gained the confidence to finally resolve this.
After removing the Cam Position Sensor and blocking the hole with a clean rag, I remove the tensioner bolts and loosened it enough so I could rotate it 180 degrees without completely removing it. there was a very slight oil seepage, but this stopped when I bolted it back up.
On startup and throughout a test drive, the rattle was gone. I'm going to see what it's like on a cold start, but so far so good.
I suspect the tensioner would have had little or no internal lubrication until today, so I'll hope it lives a little longer.

I'm not sure how anyone would install the tensioner upside down, especially since for the first time today I saw that there is a 'T' by the arrow point.

Thanks for all of the very useful info in this discussion.

 

Well done, and glad to see you have Wombat mechanics up there also.

Since its now well into Beer O'clock down here, I WAS going to say:

"Down here we point UP, as in your way, and up there you must point DOWN towards us, NAH, thats just silly, or is it"

I need another beer.

Take care, the Jag will now LUV you more.

 

I had a beer to celebrate the minor victory with the tensioner.
Raised my glass in honor of everyone on the forum and their collaborative assistance.

I checked for noise on a cold start this morning and all is good with the old cat.
Might have to celebrate again tonight.

 

Hi Grant, I'm hoping I can extract a bit more advice for you on this topic. I'm now gearing up for a complete timing chain replacement. Car is now at 330k and I have a chain buzz at 1500-2000rpm and also regular hot start rattles that can't be eliminated through new upper tensioners. Guides / tensioner blades were all replaced at around 200k

So to do the job properly and also address oil leaks the head is coming off too and I hope the oil pump chain can be replaced.

Would you replace all the sprockets ie cam, crank, upper chain drive etc? They're hard to come by and not cheap. I'm wondering if most people just re-use them

 

Marke.

Sprockets etc NO, never seen a need in any of them. The 3.6 space shuttle of the daughters is at 450K, no rattles no noises.

Oil pump chain, I did not, as I was worried about dropping things into that void and then sump off, meaning engine out, too old for that now, and then. Never took the head off either.

Both mine, the Poverty pack,and the R, had the pump damper waaaaaay out of touch with the chain.
The lower tensioner was jammed on the Poverty, and sticky on the R, and that was due simply to lousy oil, and change schedules, by previous Wombats.

The blades down the LH side were SAD, and the Poverty top blade, the one between the 2 cams, was real sad.

Firing off that lower tensioner on reassemble is CRITICAL, and I spent some time making real sure that sucker was fired off, as it will NOT fire by running the engine, as does the top one.

Need more, ask, beers always COLD.

 

Removed my X300 new type upper timing chain tensioner successfully in one piece on a previous occasion.

Unfortunately just recently tried the same thing again and the piston remained inside. I've managed to recover both the spring and the adjuster which surrounds the spring. The empty piston was visible and touchable with a finger but has now dropped out of reach.

Has it dropped right down into the sump where it should do no harm and a replacement complete tensioner would therefore work, or is there any experience of it jamming on its route downwards?

I'd be grateful for any advice or experience of this issue. Regards to all, Martin