Oh No the Electrical Grimlins have started
#1
Oh No the Electrical Grimlins have started
So about a month ago, the Cat started to get the fuel gauge issue which showed inaccurate levels. Then I began to get the airbag warning light coming on every once in a while. Then on my 200 mile journey, the traction control light would come on and turn off and then randomly come on again. Today I noticed my backup lights do not come on.I hope my Cat is not telling me something like the end is getting near. Could all of these be related?
Last edited by cdma; 12-18-2021 at 09:23 AM.
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Parker 7 (12-18-2021)
#3
Coming back around to the ignition switch you might obtain one from a salvage yard as the X308 and X100 ( 2 door sport coupe ) use the same part #
It wouldn't hurt to have a spare , no new key needed
It is the ignition switch that controls electrical distribution on the car at the fuse boxes
Were you able to see if the # 5 pin of the ignition switch connector has a good car frame ground ?
After the king relays we will look at the battery cable connections
Do not over tighten the battery positive post as the special shape nut underneath there will split in 2 , ask me how I know
It wouldn't hurt to have a spare , no new key needed
It is the ignition switch that controls electrical distribution on the car at the fuse boxes
Were you able to see if the # 5 pin of the ignition switch connector has a good car frame ground ?
After the king relays we will look at the battery cable connections
Do not over tighten the battery positive post as the special shape nut underneath there will split in 2 , ask me how I know
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-18-2021 at 11:20 AM.
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Mkii250 (12-19-2021)
#4
#5
The key barrel and the switch are separate joined on the back of the barrel
No need to remove but if you do there are 2 small set screws that is a slotted cut but is a thick dimention cut so it can fool you and with a not so wide dimension slotted screw driver
It would click around in there as you spin it out
You may have damaged the ground stud terminal on the # 5 wire , I have never seen the ground stud or the location
The ignition switch provides a ground path command to close the king relays
No need to remove but if you do there are 2 small set screws that is a slotted cut but is a thick dimention cut so it can fool you and with a not so wide dimension slotted screw driver
It would click around in there as you spin it out
You may have damaged the ground stud terminal on the # 5 wire , I have never seen the ground stud or the location
The ignition switch provides a ground path command to close the king relays
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-18-2021 at 06:32 PM.
#6
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Parker 7 (12-18-2021)
#7
You would have to remove a leg from the battery for a valid test least a sneak circuit though the rest of the car like the hot at all times SLCM
When looking at the voltages around the car with the starter at rest and not at rest you are looking at a dynamic reading situation where a loose battery cable run through the car plays into effect of lower voltage reading at the fuse boxes vs , at a isolated battery , your alternator voltage generation comes into play after engine start
When looking at the voltages around the car with the starter at rest and not at rest you are looking at a dynamic reading situation where a loose battery cable run through the car plays into effect of lower voltage reading at the fuse boxes vs , at a isolated battery , your alternator voltage generation comes into play after engine start
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-18-2021 at 06:41 PM.
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#8
It is a pretty new battery so I am thinking it is the switch because things seem to disappear if I stop turn off the key for seems to be 15 minutes or so and start back up. I looked at removing the barrel and can't figure out how to remove it. Any suggestions. Also would the reverse light also be out because of this? I checked all the fuses and they are all good. I read on another post that it could be the rotary switch. Not sure what that is.
Last edited by cdma; 12-19-2021 at 02:25 PM.
#9
There is a Youtube video on the barrel removal and if I remember the barrel has a hole in the bottom you insert a pin to unlatch it
The rotary switch is attached to the transmission body on the left side
The rotary switch can be removed and cleaned , it has delicate fingers in it like contact brushes and the hard part is the O - ring seal around it expanding and not able to stuff it back in place
The rotary switch connector is on the top side of the car floor pan by the shift post and you can test it from there
The rotary switch is attached to the transmission body on the left side
The rotary switch can be removed and cleaned , it has delicate fingers in it like contact brushes and the hard part is the O - ring seal around it expanding and not able to stuff it back in place
The rotary switch connector is on the top side of the car floor pan by the shift post and you can test it from there
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-19-2021 at 12:43 PM.
#10
#12
When removing the ignition switch do not lose the small set screws as they fall out
Take plenty of small slotted screw drivers like in a kit you probably have in your profession
On re instalation have the wings or ears marked somehow as they can be put back in 180 degrees out
Back on your # 5 wire car frame ground inspect it for a single wire strand terminal connection , this would be a cat whisker situation on a meter reading
You can read a good connection with a meter but the single wire strand can not allow enough current flow to pull the relay control half and maybe just on the edge
Take plenty of small slotted screw drivers like in a kit you probably have in your profession
On re instalation have the wings or ears marked somehow as they can be put back in 180 degrees out
Back on your # 5 wire car frame ground inspect it for a single wire strand terminal connection , this would be a cat whisker situation on a meter reading
You can read a good connection with a meter but the single wire strand can not allow enough current flow to pull the relay control half and maybe just on the edge
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-19-2021 at 01:01 PM.
#13
#14
I wouldn't plan on getting the rotary switch out as the connector will not fit through the hole in the floor pan
I ended up cutting the wires and mailing the part off to someone in Australia for he needed one
So on car cleaning of your original part may be a easier option
The O - ring if it has fallen out of place can be cut to remove some material to be better able to refit into place
Heavy vasoline can help hold the O - ring in place
put the gap in the cut O - ring on the bottem
I ended up cutting the wires and mailing the part off to someone in Australia for he needed one
So on car cleaning of your original part may be a easier option
The O - ring if it has fallen out of place can be cut to remove some material to be better able to refit into place
Heavy vasoline can help hold the O - ring in place
put the gap in the cut O - ring on the bottem
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-19-2021 at 02:10 PM.
#15
OK change out the switch and before I put everything back together the ground that you were speaking of is underneath the console? Based on what it was saying it is attached to the LH console ground stud. It is either that or the pillar ground. I guess I will check both.
I looked further into my reverse light issue and it seems that my brake lights are also not working except for the one in the back window. Once I get the switch in I will check again unless I am missing something. I checked all the fuses and they all seem to be OK. Another grounding issue?
Update: replaced the switch still have the gas gauge going to ) every once in a while. The other issues, airbag and traction control, going to have to wait till I drive it to see if they appear again. The brake light and reverse lights still don't work. I have checked every fuse. I replaced the relays and all I get is the brake light in the window.
Update 2: Could this be the SLCM. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-170295/
There has got to be something I did or changed or messed with that has screwed all these up but I just cant think of anything,
I looked further into my reverse light issue and it seems that my brake lights are also not working except for the one in the back window. Once I get the switch in I will check again unless I am missing something. I checked all the fuses and they all seem to be OK. Another grounding issue?
Update: replaced the switch still have the gas gauge going to ) every once in a while. The other issues, airbag and traction control, going to have to wait till I drive it to see if they appear again. The brake light and reverse lights still don't work. I have checked every fuse. I replaced the relays and all I get is the brake light in the window.
Update 2: Could this be the SLCM. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-170295/
There has got to be something I did or changed or messed with that has screwed all these up but I just cant think of anything,
Last edited by cdma; 12-20-2021 at 03:45 PM.
#16
You can make a ground or use another one if not able to find the specific one
Wire color for # 5 pin .....
Don't forget the ears on the witch and how it relates to the 180 degrees out installation
Editing
First priority is to get your brake lights legal
Off the top of my head the brake lights use a ground path through the ignition switch beside the obvius brake switch ( the brake switch is actualy 2 switches and the ABS modual uses one of the brake switches
Your 3rd brake light is a add on design that may be independent somehow from the traditional 2
You can discern the brake switch ( s ) use in the different systems in the brake switch pin #s used like 1 . 2 , 3 , 4
Another thing that uses the brake switch is the cruise control
Someone a couple of months ago had some good pics of the brake switch ( s )
I think the switch part # was upgraded to the X308 by a TSB
This is a post of someone with a X308 going through replacement
Brake Light Switch - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
This is the one I was looking for on the X300 brake switcch
Brake switch replacement repair - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Brake switch TSB
12-10 Amended (jagrepair.com)
Wire color for # 5 pin .....
Don't forget the ears on the witch and how it relates to the 180 degrees out installation
Editing
First priority is to get your brake lights legal
Off the top of my head the brake lights use a ground path through the ignition switch beside the obvius brake switch ( the brake switch is actualy 2 switches and the ABS modual uses one of the brake switches
Your 3rd brake light is a add on design that may be independent somehow from the traditional 2
You can discern the brake switch ( s ) use in the different systems in the brake switch pin #s used like 1 . 2 , 3 , 4
Another thing that uses the brake switch is the cruise control
Someone a couple of months ago had some good pics of the brake switch ( s )
I think the switch part # was upgraded to the X308 by a TSB
This is a post of someone with a X308 going through replacement
Brake Light Switch - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
This is the one I was looking for on the X300 brake switcch
Brake switch replacement repair - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Brake switch TSB
12-10 Amended (jagrepair.com)
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-20-2021 at 04:29 PM.
#17
Not saying you have a bad brake switch or a bad ignition switch circuit but some information on the ignition switch circuit
You may see a good meter reading on the black colored ground wire # 5
But you may be reading through a cat whisker or single wire strand or bad ground stud connection
This limiting of the current flow may cause the necessary current to keep a king relay closed being on the edge of badness
The term king relay is the relays on the fuse boxes like the ignition positive relay for the right engine bay fuse box
the pic is of the switch side half of the connector
You may see a good meter reading on the black colored ground wire # 5
But you may be reading through a cat whisker or single wire strand or bad ground stud connection
This limiting of the current flow may cause the necessary current to keep a king relay closed being on the edge of badness
The term king relay is the relays on the fuse boxes like the ignition positive relay for the right engine bay fuse box
the pic is of the switch side half of the connector
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-20-2021 at 05:18 PM.
#18
The 3rd brake light which works uses pin 1 and 4 of the brake switch and does not use a ground path through the ignition switch
the normal brake lights ...........
Has the Body Prosessor module uses a ground path through the crash switch and then through the ignition switch at pin 3 to pin 5 the car frame ground on page 39
this is page 87 of the 1996 wiring guide point 8 double hash stop sign
the normal brake lights ...........
Has the Body Prosessor module uses a ground path through the crash switch and then through the ignition switch at pin 3 to pin 5 the car frame ground on page 39
this is page 87 of the 1996 wiring guide point 8 double hash stop sign
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-20-2021 at 06:06 PM.
#19
After I wrote that I took off to You-Pull-It and got a Light Control Module, after reading a few posts, and replaced it and all the lights are working again. The give away was the third brake light. On a 97 R the control module I guess is built into the security module. In the XJ6 it is a separate module in the fuse box. Is the ground the console ground underneath the ski slope? Are you are saying maybe cut the ground and take it to another ground?