Oh No the Electrical Grimlins have started
#41
#42
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CDMA ,
If you have to replace a rear sensor I have some tips
Make sure you have the correct part # referencing the Classic Jaguar Parts website I always reference against your VIN #
The original part has the part # ink stamped on them fortunately
A right will not work on a left and vice versa for some reason
The sensor is a stainlees steel button that goes down into a hole that is cast iron ( the hub )
this presents dissimilar corrosion and penetrating oil days before hand can help
The part that breaks is the external plastic cap where the wires come out and you pry on this and pops off
In your dry environment you have it better then in wet environments for under car corrosion
The sensor connectors go into the cabin and the connectors are under the rear seat bottom pan
Someone found a loose sensor connector or wiring under the seat pan
While you have the bottom pan out you can look on the cars right at the small black triangle cover for the battery cable fuse and tie in point ( loose terminal nuts ? )
I have a pic from someone on a different computer and I think it was Watto700
To not remove the rear seat pan you can splice the wires in on the outside of the car
I have some special waterproof sealing splices I can mail you or you can remove the rear seat pan
But then the sensor wires are sensitive intelligence carrying wires so a splice is not recommended and once you cut the wires your é committed
If you have to replace a rear sensor I have some tips
Make sure you have the correct part # referencing the Classic Jaguar Parts website I always reference against your VIN #
The original part has the part # ink stamped on them fortunately
A right will not work on a left and vice versa for some reason
The sensor is a stainlees steel button that goes down into a hole that is cast iron ( the hub )
this presents dissimilar corrosion and penetrating oil days before hand can help
The part that breaks is the external plastic cap where the wires come out and you pry on this and pops off
In your dry environment you have it better then in wet environments for under car corrosion
The sensor connectors go into the cabin and the connectors are under the rear seat bottom pan
Someone found a loose sensor connector or wiring under the seat pan
While you have the bottom pan out you can look on the cars right at the small black triangle cover for the battery cable fuse and tie in point ( loose terminal nuts ? )
I have a pic from someone on a different computer and I think it was Watto700
To not remove the rear seat pan you can splice the wires in on the outside of the car
I have some special waterproof sealing splices I can mail you or you can remove the rear seat pan
But then the sensor wires are sensitive intelligence carrying wires so a splice is not recommended and once you cut the wires your é committed
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-30-2021 at 08:00 PM.
#43
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So on my way back, I ran some diagnostics, and here are some of the codes I got. when the trac light came on
C1495 TC actuator position sensor Traction control switched ON. YES TC inhibited Accelerator / throttle cable: incorrect adjustment signal incorrect Accelerate vehicle on a road surface to TC actuator position sensor to ABS / TC CM circuit: activate traction control. high resistance, open circuit or short circuit to ground TC actuator position sensor failure TC actuator failure ABS / TC CM failure.
Does this mean a bad cable or sensor?
Pending B30F4
Pending P13B0
C1495 TC actuator position sensor Traction control switched ON. YES TC inhibited Accelerator / throttle cable: incorrect adjustment signal incorrect Accelerate vehicle on a road surface to TC actuator position sensor to ABS / TC CM circuit: activate traction control. high resistance, open circuit or short circuit to ground TC actuator position sensor failure TC actuator failure ABS / TC CM failure.
Does this mean a bad cable or sensor?
Pending B30F4
Pending P13B0
#44
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The TC sensor is on top of the TC actuator cylinder, and you can clean the connectors and run some lube down the throttle cable if it is dragging
There are 2 actuator drive or power wires on the bottom of the actuator that has a history of the insulation degrading and coming off , this would prevent the actuator from accurately driving the sensor to the commanded position so you would have a disagreement between the sensor and the ABS / TC module commanded position
Gets you away from wheel sensors
Try to not take apart the throttle cable on top of the TC actuator
There is a sensor value in the wiring guide for a meter check or you can meter test it if it has totaly failed like a open through the sensor
There are 2 actuator drive or power wires on the bottom of the actuator that has a history of the insulation degrading and coming off , this would prevent the actuator from accurately driving the sensor to the commanded position so you would have a disagreement between the sensor and the ABS / TC module commanded position
Gets you away from wheel sensors
Try to not take apart the throttle cable on top of the TC actuator
There is a sensor value in the wiring guide for a meter check or you can meter test it if it has totaly failed like a open through the sensor
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-30-2021 at 07:02 PM.
#45
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Your TC sensor values are on page 69
jagxj1997.pdf (jagrepair.com)![Icon Dance Disco](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_dance-disco.gif)
At rest or inactive would not be cable retracted and this value would be 0.47 volts DC on the Blue wire ( with the TC switch on )
Cable retracted and at steady state would be the value on the blue wire will be between 0 and 5 volts DC depending on the extent of the retraction
The Yellow wire is the 5.0 volt DC reference
The Purple wire is a ground
So at the small connector you would read between the Blue wire and Purple wire , the ground . you would have to have the connecter connected so you would nick the wires or a pin on the back side of the connector
In reality the ground test connection can be any good ground , the engine block not being a good one
You can remove the connector and read on the sensor side between the blue wire and only the Purple wire and what you don't want to see is a open as you rotate the throttle cable at the actuator bellcrank somehow
You would be reading resistance in this 2nd test configuration
There was someone this past month that repaired the bottom wires and put on good pictures in his post
jagxj1997.pdf (jagrepair.com)
![Icon Dance Disco](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_dance-disco.gif)
At rest or inactive would not be cable retracted and this value would be 0.47 volts DC on the Blue wire ( with the TC switch on )
Cable retracted and at steady state would be the value on the blue wire will be between 0 and 5 volts DC depending on the extent of the retraction
The Yellow wire is the 5.0 volt DC reference
The Purple wire is a ground
So at the small connector you would read between the Blue wire and Purple wire , the ground . you would have to have the connecter connected so you would nick the wires or a pin on the back side of the connector
In reality the ground test connection can be any good ground , the engine block not being a good one
You can remove the connector and read on the sensor side between the blue wire and only the Purple wire and what you don't want to see is a open as you rotate the throttle cable at the actuator bellcrank somehow
You would be reading resistance in this 2nd test configuration
There was someone this past month that repaired the bottom wires and put on good pictures in his post
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-30-2021 at 08:50 PM.
#46
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I just check the wires coming out of the TC actuator and mine look similar to https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0-code-252373/. .SO I guess I will be replacing the wires. not even sure how the darn thing was working. The two wires were basically touching each other because it was frayed so much
#47
#48
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Today I spent all day working on the Cat. First I removed the ABS actuator and first cut the wires, installed shrink wrap, butt spliced the wires again, and took her for a ride. I came home and ran a diagnostic. Same error C1495 after I reset it twice. So I went ahead and pulled the module and sent it off for repair. Have no clue if that is going to fix it but after that, all I have to count on are the sensors.
Replaced the fuel float and so far it works. Won't really know until I fill it up after I get the module back from repair. So the Cat will sit for a while until I get everything back. Tomorrow I am going to check the cables under the seats to see if there is an issue there.
Replaced the fuel float and so far it works. Won't really know until I fill it up after I get the module back from repair. So the Cat will sit for a while until I get everything back. Tomorrow I am going to check the cables under the seats to see if there is an issue there.
#49
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